Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok this is the strange thing with these turbo I am quoting the number physical stamped gt2560r 707160-5 on the turbo BUT the garret website list them as you said gt2860r 707160-5 go figure the reason I keep quote the gt2560r number is so when someone pickup a set they will know they are the same.

Pete

3li3 32 as you mentioned the smooth linear power curve makes these perfect for street/track use as they deliver power early and smooth and very predicable so you can the maximum down to the ground.

Garrett stamp them as 25-60's & use 28-60 as the reference in their literature. They are the same turbo.

If you need turbos for track work the motors torque curve above 4000rpm is the only section of any real interest as revs shouldn't drop below this on the track. See mark up of the attached dyno chart. Note that I am not sure of the middle torque curve (ie don;t know what car it is off), but the other two are my car (Stock R32R at 13#) & Pete's (28-60's + bling). Someone with a GT-SS curve may want to further mark the thing up by way of comparison......

post-5134-1149134264.jpg

post-5134-1149134756.jpg

Edited by djr81
Garrett stamp them as 25-60's & use 28-60 as the reference in their literature. They are the same turbo.

If you need turbos for track work the motors torque curve above 4000rpm is the only section of any real interest as revs shouldn't drop below this on the track. See mark up of the attached dyno chart. Note that I am not sure of the middle torque curve (ie don;t know what car it is off), but the other two are my car (Stock R32R at 13#) & Pete's (28-60's + bling). Someone with a GT-SS curve may want to further mark the thing up by way of comparison......

They actually aren't the same. The new literature might have been the reason for the name change but the 2860R is the 707160-5 (which you said) but the 2560R is Garrett's reference to the highflow GTR turbo. They actually use your stock exhaust housing and match it up to the 28 front. It does work out to be ever so slightly smaller in size than the 707160-5. The 2560's are good for about 600 awhp whereas the 2860's are good for about 700 and they have a very deceptive power curve.

They actually aren't the same. The new literature might have been the reason for the name change but the 2860R is the 707160-5 (which you said) but the 2560R is Garrett's reference to the highflow GTR turbo. They actually use your stock exhaust housing and match it up to the 28 front. It does work out to be ever so slightly smaller in size than the 707160-5. The 2560's are good for about 600 awhp whereas the 2860's are good for about 700 and they have a very deceptive power curve.

The point I was making was that when you buy a GT28-60 707160-5 and when you actually receive the turbo from Garrett the tag on the turbo is stamped with 25-60. That is what the photos show - both mine & Ronin 09's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...