Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm done labeling the wires. Now I need help with the power feed.

1. On my incabin plug I see a Black/White wire. This is the ECCS power relay but I do not see a Red wire(pin 4), which is Ignition power. Does this mean I should only connect the ECCS power relay to the power(Black/White wire) from engine bay plug to incabin plug? And how will the IGN get power?

2. I traced the coil plug wires back and see they go to the smaller incabin plug. I read on other forums that this plug is not used in the swap. Is this true, if not what should be done here?

I have a Series 2 RB25DET.

I'm done labeling the wires. Now I need help with the power feed.

1. On my incabin plug I see a Black/White wire. This is the ECCS power relay but I do not see a Red wire(pin 4), which is Ignition power. Does this mean I should only connect the ECCS power relay to the power(Black/White wire) from engine bay plug to incabin plug? And how will the IGN get power?

2. I traced the coil plug wires back and see they go to the smaller incabin plug. I read on other forums that this plug is not used in the swap. Is this true, if not what should be done here?

I have a Series 2 RB25DET.

I double checked the wiring and I saw that I was lokking at the wrong plug. I see there are 8 wires on the coil plug, 6 that go to the ECU and 2 that go to another plug near by. I'm assuming the balc one is the ground and the white one is teh 12V power feed. Should I connect a 12V power to this wire or should I just leave it.

If the ECu gets power will the IGN alo get the 12V power?

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
very useful :(

plan to do this soon

thankyou

Good wiring guide. After a long time I'm finally done with the swap. We fired the engine up yesterday and everything working fine. Thanks for all the help predator. Just need the wiper to work. Hope someone can help.

  • 1 month later...

Im coming to the stage of doing this conversion as the 3540 has just about done the job on the 2.0ltr but have been told as i have a power fc i can still use that and the 2.0 ltr loom can anyone confirm or deny this?

  • 1 month later...

hey all just wondering if anyone can help me out?

ive got ap engineering pfc for my 20det which is in my 32 now i want to put a rb25det in and was wondering if i can use my rb20 loom?

ill be running top feed injectors and wont be running vct

will this work?

cheers

  • 3 months later...
hey all just wondering if anyone can help me out?

ive got ap engineering pfc for my 20det which is in my 32 now i want to put a rb25det in and was wondering if i can use my rb20 loom?

ill be running top feed injectors and wont be running vct

will this work?

cheers

Have done the same thing as i've got a rb20 powerfc and have the car starting fine, just switched across all rb20 sensors, igniters cas etc and used the rb20 loom, i've even changed the injector plugs so i can use the rb25 side feeds since impedance is the same. My only issue is with aac valve, as far as i can see the rb20 has only one 2 pin plug for the solenoid (yellow) while the rb25 aac has the browny/red plug on one solenoid and a purple one the another.

What plug on the rb20 loom corresponds with the purple and red/browny plugs? Am i missing something obvious? I'm sure this info would help anyone else attempting to use the rb20 loom and ecu to run the rb25. As currently my car idles fine until it warms up but then hunts at idle wildly once warm. I wired the yellow plug to the browny red and none to the purple, unplugging the aac changes nothing so i'm assuming i've wired it in correctly.

Edited by 4g6beat
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
Anyone guys?..

I just dont want to be causing damage to the eninge..

Hi, If the car was an Auto Originally, Go to the drivers side kick panel, remove and you will se the Auto Computer, Remove the plug and put kick panel back. Over fueling at idle and at high reaves is the auto enriching system. That will help, to finnish it off put a Re Mapped Chip in your ECU and a waste spark system in fixing the over fueling proplem and adding more than 30kw of power, Have fun Jamind

  • 6 months later...
My only issue is with aac valve, as far as i can see the rb20 has only one 2 pin plug for the solenoid (yellow) while the rb25 aac has the browny/red plug on one solenoid and a purple one the another.

The purple one is the FCID plug, which is not needed if you don't have airco.

I'm also doing this conversion, placing a RB25DET S2 into my R32 GTS-T.

It's coming along fine and I haven't had any real problems yet.

I'm using a RB20DET engine loom and modifying it to work with the RB25DET. I'm going to take the complete loom for the injectors out of the RB25 loom and put it in the RB20 loom. (So I can keep the plug that connects all six injectors in one plug.)

My question is, where is the best place to get the 12V power feed for the injectors?

rb25injectors.GIF

  • 9 months later...

From what ive found out through research is easiest way is to swap all the sensors out on the engine to the 20 ones and run the 20 loom with a nistune. Then you will only need to set up a vct controller which is pretty easy.

  • 5 months later...

I have this same conversion in a r32 gts-4. Only thing is can't get it started. There is spark and there is fuel supply and it ignites every full rotation or so but not enough to get it running. Could this be something to do with point 1. In the very first post. Can you please explain it a little clearer?

I had to reverse the cam sensor wiring to get signal from the cam to the injectors and coils.

Thanks,

Ariel

Edited by ISL33P
  • 3 weeks later...

I frequently get asked if I still do conversion looms for RB motors in R32's and the simple answer is yes. I don't get as much free time these days but I still enjoy doing it when the opportunity arises. Please contact me via PM if this is of interest to you.

Ben

  • 5 months later...

have an r32 four door with series1 rb25, we used pred's guide and the wiring diagram done by the SAU member that makes 25 converion looms, question is when the car is powered the fuel pump primes starter cranks, should there be a light in the ecu? engine was out of an auto 33 but loom and ecu is from manual 33

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...