Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car is a 89 S13 engine is a Series 1 RB25DET.

For some odd reason my car runs like crap on stock timing. There's just no power up top and it feels really rough. It makes lots of noise but doesn't really go anywhere. But when I set timing closer to 20* BTDC, it feels much better. It has more power and it comes on a lot smoother up top and down low. I know for a 5spd RB25 stock timing is 15* and for an auto stock timing is 20*. But my engine is a 5spd manual. I'm really stumped with this and I don't want to ruin my motor by running incorrect timing. Has anyone had an issue like his before? Any help is appreciated.

Car is a 89 S13 engine is a Series 1 RB25DET.

For some odd reason my car runs like crap on stock timing. There's just no power up top and it feels really rough. It makes lots of noise but doesn't really go anywhere. But when I set timing closer to 20* BTDC, it feels much better. It has more power and it comes on a lot smoother up top and down low. I know for a 5spd RB25 stock timing is 15* and for an auto stock timing is 20*. But my engine is a 5spd manual. I'm really stumped with this and I don't want to ruin my motor by running incorrect timing. Has anyone had an issue like his before? Any help is appreciated.

Is that +6 degrees over stock timing (21* BTDC). How modded is your engine?

how are you checking your timing? is it possible that you have infact been moving the timing the other way and dropping it to 10*btdc?

also what fuel do you run? if it is crap fuel then that may be the cause. set it back to 15* and put some good octane boost in and drive it round for a bit and see if that makes it run any better.

I'm checking timing with a Snap On timing gun using FSM procedures.

When I was setting timing to 15*, I aimed for the 4th mark from the left on the crank pulley.

For example: l l l l <---This one

0* 5* 10* 15*

I'm running 93 octane fuel (highest grade available here). I'll try octane booster to see if that makes a difference or not at 15* BTDC.

I just went back out for a quick drive. I don't really want to drive too much b/c of my lack of fans. But I noticed that at 15*,17*, and 20* my car felt slow. It honestly felt more sluggish than a stock KA24DE. So in desperation, I rotated the CAS completely counter clockwise (advanced) and went for another drive. It felt great - like a 6 cylinder turbo should. Albeit it wasn't too smooth due to some ignition misfires but it actually felt fast and it knocked my head into the seat. None of this occured at close to stock timing. I'll have to wait to get some fans on before I got out for joy rides again. I don't think I've been doing my engine any good running w/o fans.

One of the things I notice with guys new to RB’s is they tend to point the timing light vertically, straight down at the timing mark on the cam cover. This is wrong, the timing light needs to be 25-30 degrees off vertical, towards the airfilter, (the RHS looking at the engine). If you point the timing light vertically you see about 5 to 8 degrees advanced from where the timing really is. Move the light (and your head) across to the right and you get a better indicator of the real timing.

:) cheers :)

I'm new to RB's but I'm not new to Nissans and timing them in general. Also, I'm a techinician for Honda.

I'm definitely pointing the gun correctly. I also learned that it's easiet from the right hand side. The timing indicator is also easier to see from that angle.

Edited by 240dreams

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Following from this in a related by not closely-related sense... Because I was buying a bunch of other GKTech stuff, I got some rear subframe collars. The history that leads up to this is: 25+ years ago the car arrived into the country with stock subframe bushes. At some point shortly thereafter I added Whiteline pineapple rings, set up neutral, and it improved the rear end behaviour. Well, it is my vague memory that I was happier with it with them in. Less axle tramp on launches, generally better, etc etc. ~2012 it got a new non-HICAS subframe with new stock bushes. No pineapple rings. I reckon that ever since then I've been dissatisfied with the axle tramp. Recently I've been f**king around a lot with all aspects of the suspension. One contemplation has been to relocate the rear lower control arm front mount points (and do the other things needed to make that work) to improve longitudinal rear grip by getting rid of some of the stupid anti-squat that Nissan ladled into the R32. But.... before doing that I thought I'd put some collars in. And.... The collars are good. The rear sounds a little bit different, but there has been no significant increase in NVH coming up into the body. In terms of rear behaviour - expansion joints on long sweeping elevated freeway ramps that would sometimes cause the rear to jiggle around a bit, no longer seem to do so. It appears that jamming chunks of metal into the gaps in the rubber so they can't move much is a really good thing. And the launch behaviour and general forward traction situation seems to be greatly improved too. It's impossible to be really sure, because the tyres are completely shagged - they are freakishly willing to let go right now. But as an A-B test with the same tyres it certainly seems to grip up a lot better. Highly recommended to anyone who still has stock bushes.
    • Bit off topic maybe but has anyone had a crack at one of those aftermarket electric compressors ? Bit of a search came up with one put out by Speedy Air Spares. Looks interesting and looks as if you'd have to run a big arse alternator. Found this out after the fact as my air con compressor packed it in and soon after my alternator ! !
    • Yes. Needs new ports. Usually just achieved by screwing an adapter onto them. Be aware that any AC compressor that hasn't been used in a long time will very likely have dried out seals and will not hold gas. Oh, and obviously you will require a new receiver-dryer also.
    • Can you covert an R32's AC from r12 to r134 if the compressor/hoses etc are still all good? Pretty sure on my car the AC was degassed when it was imported  to remove the naughty r12 and save the ozone layer, and the fancy climate control system just blew air around. Was happy to drive the car with windows down back then, but now I am old and need to be kept cool
    • Just to circle back here, I've sold my automatic trans to another Stagea owner in OH.
×
×
  • Create New...