Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ATS Carbon LSD

(for sale due to financial reasons - travelling overseas.)

Brand new still in box

was for my BNR32 but will suit any R200 diff.

$1880 o.b.o

can pickup in Sydney CBD area.

Characteristics of a Carbon LSD

Lasts 70x the service life of your normal lsd

BEST MONEY CAN BUY

The superior carbon technology of ATS &ACROSS

The world most advanced LSD

ATS&ACROSS Carbon LSD

Developed for Formula Nippon. Absolute minimum mechanical noise and superb maintenance of initial torque. Used for Formula Nippon since the season of 2001. Now available for FF, FR, & MR cars. A must item to win the races.

1) Its initial torque is moderately set and the initial torque level lasts much longer than the metal LSD, but the locking performance is as strong as the metal.

"The durability is unparalleled. It is proven by the 24hours endurance races"

2) Carbon LSD has a mild transitional characteristic which enable the driver to start acceleration earlier than the metal LSD.

3) Gentle transition to locking also provides a better acceleration control at the apex point.

4) With ATS LSD oil, the noise is unnoticeable. No unwanted chattering noise associated with a metal LSD.

5) Used by many top rated tuners for their time trial cars and the results shows the carbon LSD's superiority..

Click for more info

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119983-fs-ats-carbon-15way-lsd-suit-r200/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...