Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Suspension Question?


Recommended Posts

Taken form the first post in the suspension thread:

The front shocks look to be the same as R33 GTR, as is the rest of the front suspension

The rear shocks look to be the same as R33 GTST

Link to comment
Share on other sites

agreed. front shocks are R33 GTR,the rear is S14/S15/R33 GTST.

sway bars ARE R33 GTR FRONT AND REAR. do NOT let someone sell you an S14/S15/33 GTST rear bar,as it will NOT line up with the D brackets on the rear subframe.

front radius rods are R33 GTR,and aftermarket S14/S15/33GTST rods will NOT fit,they'll foul on the sway bar links.

rear subframe collars will bolt straight in.

this is all from my personal experience on my own car.

Justin...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

agreed. front shocks are R33 GTR,the rear is S14/S15/R33 GTST.

sway bars ARE R33 GTR FRONT AND REAR. do NOT let someone sell you an S14/S15/33 GTST rear bar,as it will NOT line up with the D brackets on the rear subframe.

front radius rods are R33 GTR,and aftermarket S14/S15/33GTST rods will NOT fit,they'll foul on the sway bar links.

rear subframe collars will bolt straight in.

this is all from my personal experience on my own car.

Justin...

look at the sticky suspension thread :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

look at the sticky suspension thread :)

I have previously,and found some of the information contained in it to be wrong,particularly the sway bar part numbers listed for whiteline components.

I learned this the hard way by ordering them myself based on Sk's listing,and then finding that they didn't fit,and had to then return them,pay a re-packaging fee,and wait a further week for my sway bars.

I can provide the part numbers of the bars I have fitted to my series 2,as well as photos of how they bolted in to compare to the photos in that thread of how the wrong parts have to butchered to make them fit at a later date if you require them.

Justin...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have previously,and found some of the information contained in it to be wrong,particularly the sway bar part numbers listed for whiteline components.

I learned this the hard way by ordering them myself based on Sk's listing,and then finding that they didn't fit,and had to then return them,pay a re-packaging fee,and wait a further week for my sway bars.

I can provide the part numbers of the bars I have fitted to my series 2,as well as photos of how they bolted in to compare to the photos in that thread of how the wrong parts have to butchered to make them fit at a later date if you require them.

Justin...

heya justin i would be very keen to get those part numbers from you as i have just ordered a set of bars and would like to know if they are gonna fit my S2?

Edited by oxford1327
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Let's start off with ................. this is the original picture of the stabiliser bar boxes from the Stagea Suspension thread showing the part numbers that I used on my Stagea (there is no difference in suspension between S1 and S2 that I have seen).

WhitelineBarsPartscopy.jpg

Secondly as per the current Whiteline catalogue the part number for an adjustable R33GTR rear bar is BNR11XZ (heavy duty = 22 mm) and BNR11XXZ (extra heavy duty = 24 mm)

Keeping the above in mind;

B = Bar

N = Nissan

11 = shape

X = heavy duty

XX == extra heavy duty

Z = adjustable

If you look at the picture of the stabiliser bar boxes you can see I used BNR11XZ. That was 2004, since then I have upgraded to BNR11XXZ as I felt it needed the extra rear antiroll.

SO I don't see where or why Justion had a problem with the part numbers based on the Stagea Suspension thread.

If anyone would like to look under my Stagea and make sure that I haven't butchered anything please feel free to do so. You will quickly see that the stabiliser bars fit perfectly.

Whiteline did make a mistake with the manufacture of a couple of Stagea rear bars where the U bend was made to the internal dimensions instead of the external dimensions. Perhaps Justin was affected by that, but the stabiliser bar part numbers in the Stagea Suspension thread are correct and always have been correct.

:D cheers :P

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Let's start off with ................. this is the original picture of the stabiliser bar boxes from the Stagea Suspension thread showing the part numbers that I used on my Stagea (there is no difference in suspension between S1 and S2 that I have seen).

Secondly as per the current Whiteline catalogue the part number for an adjustable R33GTR rear bar is BNR11XZ (heavy duty = 22 mm) and BNR11XXZ (extra heavy duty = 24 mm)

If you look at the picture of the stabiliser bar boxes you can see I used BNR11XZ. That was 2004, since then I have upgraded to BNR11XXZ as I felt it needed the extra rear antiroll.

SO I don't see where or why Justin had a problem with the part numbers based on the Stagea Suspension thread.

If anyone would like to look under my Stagea and make sure that I haven't butchered anything please feel free to do so. You will quickly see that the stabiliser bars fit perfectly.

Whiteline did make a mistake with the manufacture of a couple of Stagea rear bars where the U bend was made to the internal dimensions instead of the external dimensions. Perhaps Justin was affected by that, but the stabiliser bar part numbers in the Stagea Suspension thread are correct and always have been correct.

:D cheers :P

well,since whiteline have altered their S14/33 GTSt rear bar,changing the width of the straight section,it's now quite possible that they will fit on,where the ones I bought back at the beginning of this year did not,necessitating the re-packaging and swap for the correct part,as they were approx. 20mm too narrow between the radii,which prevented the front D brackets from being fitted.

in the suspension thread that I read earlier in the year the pictures of your first rear bar showed that the links had been filed out to offset the bolt holes,and that the D bush was sitting halfway around the radius on the bar,which to me,is not fitting up perfectly.

now,I bought bars based on that photo,using those part numbers,and they didn't fit. the front was fine,as I said above,but the rear did NOT line up with the front mounting brackets at all,and wasn't all that close to the control arm mounting points either.

I'd like to see a photo of under your car,and when I'm back at home on the weekend and have access to my digital camera,and my own PC,as well as the receipt from the suspension place that sold me the bars so I can give you the part numbers of the rear bar thatdoes bolt straight on,I'll post up my own information,and we can compare notes.

Justin...

Edited by fergo308
Link to comment
Share on other sites

well,since whiteline have altered their S14/33 GTSt rear bar,changing the width of the straight section,it's now quite possible that they will fit on,where the ones I bought back at the beginning of this year did not,necessitating the re-packaging and swap for the correct part,as they were approx. 20mm too narrow between the radii,which prevented the front D brackets from being fitted.

in the suspension thread that I read earlier in the year the pictures of your first rear bar showed that the links had been filed out to offset the bolt holes,and that the D bush was sitting halfway around the radius on the bar,which to me,is not fitting up perfectly.

now,I bought bars based on that photo,using those part numbers,and they didn't fit. the front was fine,as I said above,but the rear did NOT line up with the front mounting brackets at all,and wasn't all that close to the control arm mounting points either.

I'd like to see a photo of under your car,and when I'm back at home on the weekend and have access to my digital camera,and my own PC,as well as the receipt from the suspension place that sold me the bars so I can give you the part numbers of the rear bar thatdoes bolt straight on,I'll post up my own information,and we can compare notes.

Justin...

Hi Justin, I believe that you may well be confusing someone elses pictures. I never filed anything. I most certainly wouldn't fit the D bush half way around the bend. And I definitely would not suggest that anyone do either of those things.

As I said in the previous post, there were some Whiteline stabiliser bars made incorrectly. The bending machine was programmed for the outside diameter of the U bend instead of the inside diameter. Hence making the U bend too narrow. This was picked up by a couple of the Stagea Group Buy guys and I arranged with Whiteline for their bars to be replaced free of charge.

There was never a part number change, the rear Stagea bar has always been BNR11 (X, XX , Z, XZ or XXZ).

My guess, is the suspension shop that you bought them from may not know the correct story.

:) cheers :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
×
×
  • Create New...