Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'Day,

You need to cut the hose before the wastegate actuator i.e. you need to insert the boost controller somewhere along the line between the 2 arrows in your pic you listed under "Pipe from wastegate".

Hope that makes sense

Edited by ScorpR32

then boost away, hahaha. i'm not sure if the r32's have a boost cut or not. if they do then that will be as high as you can go. i'd probably say 11-12psi would be apples for the bigger turbo on your engine. but i don't know that much about the r32's

Hey just tryed it out,

first time the car felt slower but it still read 10psi, didnt understand that?

Turned it up a bit more and it was still reading around 10psi. If i have the controller lower than the standard boost will the wastegate still do 10psi minimum?

also i found that when the controller was all the way out it was at about 9psi, then when i started to wind it out it dropped to 8, then as i kept going it would rise. my mate has the same thing with his turbosmart controller. the easiest the controller can be set on isn't the lowest. don't know why.

Well you probably still have the rb20 actuator with the R34 turbo, so the minimum boost you can make is about 10psi. Below that the boost controller wont do anything.

Set it for 13psi...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Aren't these run off of high voltage in OEM applications? Like 200+V. Or at least 48V in mild hybrids. At ~18,000 BTU ballpark nominal capacity the power draw is at what, 2.2 kW? ~185A is a pretty crazy amount of amps. At 200V it's only 11A. The 70A nominal kits with up to 100A peak draw I see for stuff like classic Porsches have pretty substantial compromises like shutting off at idle and not actually managing to keep the interior cool in hot conditions because they can only output like 6000 BTU. IMO if I had to pick what high amp draw component to retrofit to these cars I would start with the engine fan, not the AC compressor. You need an ~850-1000W brushless fan, something like this: I would love to see the data but I would bet that whatever you save by running the AC compressor in a more efficient regime with an electric motor you're probably losing to conversion losses anyways. It's not really like a clutch fan where you're losing power all the time even when it's nominally disengaged and it gets worse as it engages because the envelope tracking isn't that precise.
    • I am a volunteer marshal at the Grand Prix. As such, I get a "friend / family" ticket. It is a general admission ticket, valid for all 4 days. Anyone interested in my spare pass, please DM me. Ticket is "free, gratis and no expense".
    • agreed, the price vs gains it’s there.   unless you go china supercharger. Temu racing anyone?😂https://www.facebook.com/share/15nkfpsg7Z/?mibextid=wwXIfr that was one of the ones that popped up on my feed 😂
    • Bit of a long shot but if anyone has 4 of these laying around in new or near new condition. I will happily buy them off you.     https://skylinespares.com.au/product/stabilizer-door-glass-inner-new-8032404u03/?srsltid=AfmBOop6L5EgUFaHPHiVXoAhv5k8aJYwc77nGmoApp-hY03OiOsNVaOv Thanks 
    • I'm wondering is the Toyota and Mazda "collaboration" could see that new Toyota ???G20 ??? turbo engine that they have been showing off recently into a future MX5, apparently it's good for 400hp out of the box That could easily, possibly, be much better than the last collaboration between Toyota and Subaru with the boxer engine in the twins
×
×
  • Create New...