Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Problems - How Do You Bleed It?

hijaked

By hijaked,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
Posted

Hey guys.

got a little problem with my r33, which is that my clutch works perfect and then the next minute it wont.

under normal driving, the clutch is fine! clutch grabs normal. no problems

however, if im stuck on a hill in traffic, it gets to the point where, everytime i use the clutch to go forward, the clutch gets lighter and shorter in terms of how much play i have with the pedal. It pretty much gets to the point where the clutch pedal feels like its not connected to anything, i cant get the car back into gear without, turning the car off, forcing it to 1st, and then dumping the clutch to get the car moving again.

altho once the cars is driving on the flat again, after a little while the clutch returns to normal.

my other problem with the clutch is that, on those wet days, if i break traction and the wheels spin, the longer the wheels spin the longer it takes for my clutch to go back to what i beleive is normal. same thing again, pedal doesnt do anything, car stuck in 2nd....

The car has a aftermarket clutch, no idea what it is. just not stock!

I talked to a friend and he beleives that there are air bubbles in the in the hydrolic... my question is, assuming thats the problem,

How do i bleed the clutch? or is there an easier way to get rid of those bubbles. at the moment my car is sitting on a hoist..

Thanks for your time

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120264-clutch-problems-how-do-you-bleed-it/
Share on other sites
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

bleeding :

whould be a nipple on the side of the slave cyl on the side of the gearbox... you need to undo to that a little and have someone press the clutch allowing the fluid to come out a little . then tighten it quickly before releaseing the clutch.

then repeat..

prob is an easier way, but this is how i do it lol

hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
  • Author
Posted

flying high: i dont know how old the clutch is.. 2nd hand car.. but i find it strange that it can work perfect and then not.... but i wil leave that at the end of the list as its the hardest (and costs more :D)

Craved: ive seen the nipples, fair enough, will have to give that a go, and then pump more fluid into the top... what fluid should i use???

thanks for the replys

SuAvE-1 Collaborator

SuAvE-1

Posted
Posted

not sure on how to fix your problem, one thing is for sure though. DO NOT USE SYTHENTIC BRAKE FLUID!!! use regular mineral brake fluid otherwise you will destroy your seals and then you will leak clutch fluid until you cannot select gears properly and have to top up clutch fluid regularly like i do, until you either replace the clutch master cylinder or rebuild it with a seal kit.

  • 2 weeks later...
Savman Enthusiast

Savman

Posted
Posted

Hijacked i have the same problem or very similar with my R32 GTR. I find that sometimes that car doesn't engage with first properly even know there is hardly any load. Lately i have been finding that 5th and 4th on high boost, high load is starting to slip this might be because i left the problem to long and now the clutch is starting to go not sure. The pedel never felt right only engaging right at the top when it did engauge.

I am probably going to have to get a new clutch but i'm going to try and bleed the system anyway. Mine is a push type tripple plate clutch. If u find out whats going on tell me so i can rectify. :

:whistling:

hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i have driven my car for a total of 40 mins in the last 7 weeks!!

this week ive had to change my exhuast manifold twice... f**king cheap manifold looks like a banana!

anways i took my car for a test drive... i still had a problems, but just driving normally on flat land.... then i bled the clutch.

it feels better, and i havnt had the problems... then again.. i havnt driven the car in ages so i dont know

when its fixed fully, ill let you know

devos2be Community Regular

devos2be

Posted
Posted

hey guys i have the same problem i have clutch fluid leaking down near my feet around the seal is this a big drama or fairly cheap fix can i leave it for a little while i only have to top it up every day.

post-28526-1151560134.jpg

ranicx Veteran

ranicx

Posted
Posted

i think the problem that you have described here is more to do with the seals on the clutch master cylinder. it may not be leaking, but it sounds like its not holding the pressure when you push the clutch in. im getting the same problem at the moment, and somtimes the clutch pedel doesnt come fully up

have been quoted $260 to get it replaced

SuAvE-1 Collaborator

SuAvE-1

Posted
Posted

just bought a new clutch master cylinder for $140 delivered off Kudos motorsports. Brand new genuine part. Gonna install it soon.

ATM i believe my clutch to be fine, but I have to keep topping up the master cylinder fluid (as it pools around my feet) to maintain decent gear selection and clutch disengagement on high load.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • WARLORD
      injectors top feed for sale

      By WARLORD · Posted

      Deatschwerks 1800cc sold
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...