Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Problems - How Do You Bleed It?

hijaked

By hijaked,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
Posted

Hey guys.

got a little problem with my r33, which is that my clutch works perfect and then the next minute it wont.

under normal driving, the clutch is fine! clutch grabs normal. no problems

however, if im stuck on a hill in traffic, it gets to the point where, everytime i use the clutch to go forward, the clutch gets lighter and shorter in terms of how much play i have with the pedal. It pretty much gets to the point where the clutch pedal feels like its not connected to anything, i cant get the car back into gear without, turning the car off, forcing it to 1st, and then dumping the clutch to get the car moving again.

altho once the cars is driving on the flat again, after a little while the clutch returns to normal.

my other problem with the clutch is that, on those wet days, if i break traction and the wheels spin, the longer the wheels spin the longer it takes for my clutch to go back to what i beleive is normal. same thing again, pedal doesnt do anything, car stuck in 2nd....

The car has a aftermarket clutch, no idea what it is. just not stock!

I talked to a friend and he beleives that there are air bubbles in the in the hydrolic... my question is, assuming thats the problem,

How do i bleed the clutch? or is there an easier way to get rid of those bubbles. at the moment my car is sitting on a hoist..

Thanks for your time

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120264-clutch-problems-how-do-you-bleed-it/
Share on other sites
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

bleeding :

whould be a nipple on the side of the slave cyl on the side of the gearbox... you need to undo to that a little and have someone press the clutch allowing the fluid to come out a little . then tighten it quickly before releaseing the clutch.

then repeat..

prob is an easier way, but this is how i do it lol

hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
  • Author
Posted

flying high: i dont know how old the clutch is.. 2nd hand car.. but i find it strange that it can work perfect and then not.... but i wil leave that at the end of the list as its the hardest (and costs more :D)

Craved: ive seen the nipples, fair enough, will have to give that a go, and then pump more fluid into the top... what fluid should i use???

thanks for the replys

SuAvE-1 Collaborator

SuAvE-1

Posted
Posted

not sure on how to fix your problem, one thing is for sure though. DO NOT USE SYTHENTIC BRAKE FLUID!!! use regular mineral brake fluid otherwise you will destroy your seals and then you will leak clutch fluid until you cannot select gears properly and have to top up clutch fluid regularly like i do, until you either replace the clutch master cylinder or rebuild it with a seal kit.

  • 2 weeks later...
Savman Enthusiast

Savman

Posted
Posted

Hijacked i have the same problem or very similar with my R32 GTR. I find that sometimes that car doesn't engage with first properly even know there is hardly any load. Lately i have been finding that 5th and 4th on high boost, high load is starting to slip this might be because i left the problem to long and now the clutch is starting to go not sure. The pedel never felt right only engaging right at the top when it did engauge.

I am probably going to have to get a new clutch but i'm going to try and bleed the system anyway. Mine is a push type tripple plate clutch. If u find out whats going on tell me so i can rectify. :

:whistling:

hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i have driven my car for a total of 40 mins in the last 7 weeks!!

this week ive had to change my exhuast manifold twice... f**king cheap manifold looks like a banana!

anways i took my car for a test drive... i still had a problems, but just driving normally on flat land.... then i bled the clutch.

it feels better, and i havnt had the problems... then again.. i havnt driven the car in ages so i dont know

when its fixed fully, ill let you know

devos2be Community Regular

devos2be

Posted
Posted

hey guys i have the same problem i have clutch fluid leaking down near my feet around the seal is this a big drama or fairly cheap fix can i leave it for a little while i only have to top it up every day.

post-28526-1151560134.jpg

ranicx Veteran

ranicx

Posted
Posted

i think the problem that you have described here is more to do with the seals on the clutch master cylinder. it may not be leaking, but it sounds like its not holding the pressure when you push the clutch in. im getting the same problem at the moment, and somtimes the clutch pedel doesnt come fully up

have been quoted $260 to get it replaced

SuAvE-1 Collaborator

SuAvE-1

Posted
Posted

just bought a new clutch master cylinder for $140 delivered off Kudos motorsports. Brand new genuine part. Gonna install it soon.

ATM i believe my clutch to be fine, but I have to keep topping up the master cylinder fluid (as it pools around my feet) to maintain decent gear selection and clutch disengagement on high load.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...