Jump to content
SAU Community

I Think I Need An Upgrade?

hijaked
 Share

Recommended Posts

hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
Posted

hi how are you all

thinking about making my car quicker... but safety first.. as mum says

i have a r33 gtst, my pads have nearly had it, but i was thinking about giving the car better brakes.

The car doesn't have ABS... what should i upgrade. what does everyone else do, how much will it all cost.

Thanks for your time

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120269-i-think-i-need-an-upgrade/
Share on other sites
MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted (edited)

how much power do you plan on running? r33 gts-t brakes are fairly good, i'd be more concerned about getting a good brand of tyre

keep in mind, if you can lock up your wheels braking, then your brakes are fine, it's your tyres.... (though don't make a habit of locking up your wheels, you'll flat spot the tyres)

replace pads with a good brand, and check rotor thickness, replace if required.

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig
hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hmm, not too much roughly 230 ish at the wheels. its only 165 now

ive used to having tyres 9"wide with some decent yokohamas.

i had to down grade to stockies.... useless really, i hate them, barely legal tyres now. my friend kindly left some flat spots in them the other day, jsut to make my wet dirivng a little more challanging.

ill do the brakes after i get new wheels, i want at least 8" wide tyres.

what brand pads do people use, and how much do they cost??

im a uni student, and the power mods are already breaking my balls!!

thats why im keepling a tally of all the costs.

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

DBA 400 slotted rotors ~$220 ea

Ferodo DS2500 pads front (update when i get home and look at receipt)

Racebrakes RB74 rear pads (update when i get home and look at receipt)

Braided lines ~$200

Motul 600 brake fluid $piss all, go to ur local repco

That's what i was running on my R33 Stopped on a dime, came up to temp really good, no brake fade, excellent set-up for street use plus the odd track event.

For my 32 gtr i'll be running DBA 4000 sloted rotors, HAWK HT14 front pads, HAWK HT10 rear pads, rebuild callipers, braided lines and Motul 600 fluid. But this car will be used heavily for track work.

slip Mentor

slip

Posted
Posted

merlin -

keep in mind, if you can lock up your wheels braking, then your brakes are fine, it's your tyres

that is so very wrong. it just means your brakes are working. I could lock up bridgestone s03's with sock r31 brakes. they sucked.

i have a setup very similar to shanef above and its a good setup for hard road/timetrial/trackday use.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
merlin -

that is so very wrong. it just means your brakes are working. I could lock up bridgestone s03's with sock r31 brakes. they sucked.

i have a setup very similar to shanef above and its a good setup for hard road/timetrial/trackday use.

definately a big difference between locking up on hard braking and sudden braking ..

the idea he posted was correct, but lots of variables obviously

LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted

the r33 gts-t brake lines from the caliper to the hose are shit.. what can i do to replace those?

also the best discs and pads are the dba slotted and the blitz pads with motul brake fluid.

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
the r33 gts-t brake lines from the caliper to the hose are shit.. what can i do to replace those?

also the best discs and pads are the dba slotted and the blitz pads with motul brake fluid.

take them off and go down to ur local autobarn and get them to make some braided lines up. make sure u get the plastic cover of the braide so dirt wont get in there and over time they'll fall apart.

wat do you base your theory that blitz pads are the best? what application do you recommend these for? it has been stated many times previous (from many people) that the ferodo's and racebrakes are the best for street applications with the odd track run.

however seeing as my gtr will be mainly used for track duties and hillclimbs etc, HAWK pads will be what ill be going for.

i started a thread regarding calliper uprgrades, i recommend you go and read what is in there as there is alot of great advice from people who actually know what they are tlaking about.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
As an option, i have 33GTSt series 2. I picked up a set of standard 32 GTR brakes for a couple hundred dollars and they were bolt on. Made big difference to how it stopped.

i was under the impression that these are the same calipers anyway.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

I concur with Craved, I believe i saw on that table Roy posted up ages ago in here somewhere that the 33 gtst and 32 gtr brakes are very similiar if not identical in caliper piston size. But i think configuration might have been slightly different, the details on that part evade me there sorry. Should find that table and repost it.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

ok here it is. Courtesy of Roy from another post.

R32 GTST

Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 25.4

Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4

Front rotors (diam x thk) - 280×30

Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2

Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18

R33 GTST

Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 23.8

Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4

Front rotors (diam x thk) - 296×30

Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2

Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18

Now the interesting bit...

R32 GTR (Non V-Spec,)

Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 25.4

Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4

Front rotors (diam x thk) - 296×32

Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2

Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18

R32 GTR V-Spec / R33 / 34 GTR with Brembos

Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 26.9

Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - (44+38)×2 ... leading pistons smaller then trailing

Front rotors (diam x thk) - 324×30

Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40×2

Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 300×22

So there isnt much difference between the Brembos and the std Nissan R32/33 GTST calipers and R32 GTR calipers

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

yup.. r32 gtr brakes will make SFA difference as they are the same specs.. Only the condition of them would make any difference.

Also the rears on the R32/R33/R34 turbos and R32 GTR are exactly the same specs for setup, disc size, caliper. Again, only age would play the difference.

The DBA catalogue is a great reference for the different specs on the Nissan range to see any differences.

LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted
take them off and go down to ur local autobarn and get them to make some braided lines up. make sure u get the plastic cover of the braide so dirt wont get in there and over time they'll fall apart.

Would i be able to get some braided brake lines off here? (SAU)

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I don't see why anyone would use any pads mroe expensive than bendix ultimates for street and light track, cheap and they are very good (bite and heat rating). $110ish for fronts

If you are doing serious track work its a bit different then go for something specific for the regular higher temps but there is a trade off in braking performance when they are cold which I think is an issue on the street.

R DIRTY 3 Grand Master

R DIRTY 3

Posted
Posted

now you guys have made me feel my brakes are crap haha the rotors were obviously the big difference. bigger, cross drilled etc. I did not spec the calipers but knew they were not that different. However, i still think they work alot better but that may be the pads that are used which i dont know what brand. They are good enough for what i do with the car anyway. But good to see the info you all came up with. As a new member, im impressed

Thanks

R Dirty 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...