Jump to content
SAU Community

Noisy Thrust Bearings

Evil

By Evil,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Evil Mentor

Evil

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know if these can be lubricated (without removing the gearbox)? Mine are making a little bit of noise. When I touch the clutch pedal they stop. Clutch is in perfect condition too. I know some cars have a special panel to look at the condition of the bearings and to grease them. Is there one of these on an R33?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12049-noisy-thrust-bearings/
Share on other sites
Cake Mentor

Cake

Posted
Posted

Mine just do the 'sshhhh' worn sound when clutch is out. no squeaking, i have heard u can lube them but the noise comes back very quickly, so it's not worth it, most people wait till they need a new clutch to replace the thrust bearings but since you've just got a new clutch you might want to remove that gearbox again? :D

Evil Mentor

Evil

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by b005t

Mine just do the 'sshhhh' worn sound when clutch is out. no squeaking,  i have heard u can lube them but the noise comes back very quickly, so it's not worth it, most people wait till they need a new clutch to replace the thrust bearings but since you've just got a new clutch you might want to remove that gearbox again? :D

I think I'll just have to leave 'em, I don't want to spend big $$$ on labour for a small job like greasing some bearings.

:D

\\\Wiktor Enthusiast

\\\Wiktor

Posted
Posted

if it really bug's you. take a can of wd40 and a NARROW hose. modyfy the hose to fit the can then remowe the rubber protector on the gearbox housing and spray the MF thrust bearing.

OR better get a really FAT exhaust 3,5'+ with only one damper and yo' probz will desapear... :)

Wiktor

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Wiktor

if it really bug's you. take a can of wd40 and a NARROW hose. modyfy the hose to fit the can then remowe the rubber protector on the gearbox housing and spray the MF thrust bearing.

OR better get a really FAT exhaust 3,5'+ with only one damper and yo' probz will desapear... ;)

Wiktor

No offence dude, but this is the worst thing that you could do.

WD40 will wash all the grease out of the thrust bearing, and within a few days/week the bearing will be running dry !! the first few days it will be quiet, but after that..... :) Not a good thing.

The only way to fix it is to drop the box and repack, or even better, get a new thrust bearing. :(

\\\Wiktor Enthusiast

\\\Wiktor

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Jay95R33

No offence dude, but this is the worst thing that you could do.

WD40 will wash all the grease out of the thrust bearing, and within a few days/week the bearing will be running dry !!  the first few days it will be quiet, but after that..... :)  Not a good thing.

The only way to fix it is to drop the box and repack, or even better, get a new thrust bearing. :D

no offence taken.

yes i know that it will take away all the grease in the bearing. but it was just ment as a temp. sulition.

of coure you have to change it asap.

Wiktor

\\\Wiktor Enthusiast

\\\Wiktor

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Sumo

I replaced the clutch and thrust bearing on my 33 yesterday... Unless you have a pit or a hoist to work in you cant do it. It only took us 2hours to have the box out.... takes prolly the same to put it back in.

Sumo

just a tip. losen the engine bushings/mounts some turns and lean the engine down in tha back when you mount it back cus' it makes the job A LOT easier.

Wiktor

Revhead Grand Master

Revhead

Posted
Posted

Apparently noisy throwout bearings are a VERY common problem on Skylines. I've heard of people going through four or five bearings before they found a quiet one... but then again, all it is is a noise, it's certainly not an indication that your gearbox is about to seize!

From experience, don't bother trying to 'repair' a bearing unless it's an emergency - a repacked/lubed bearing is certainly better than a stuffed one, and it's better than being stuck in the middle of nowhere, but you cannot guarantee how long it will last for. A day? A week? A year? Who knows - you can't rely on it, replace it with a new one ASAP. If it's just normal bearing noise (rather than a noise indicating bearing failure, eg rumble or screeching (!) ) leave it alone.

The squeaky clutch pedal is quite often just the plastic bush on the pedal pivot. Just spray it with some decent lube (that won't eat the plastic) and push the pedal a few times. If that doesn't work, lube the actuator under the car (where the clutch fork comes out of the bellhousing). Easiest thing to do is to get under the car and have someone repeatedly press the pedal, and you just sit there and lube anything that makes noise - within reason of course :)

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      This might be true if you live in NZ but I can't see how this could be true for us locals here.  I've found the customer support for Haltech to be absolutely amazing. I've turned up to Haltech and spent entire days with their tech support guys, they've even helped me with wiring dramas that had nothing to do with their products.  They have the best customer support of any company I've dealt with, I can't imagine how my experiences with them could possibly be any better.
    • MBS206
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If you want to do a single throttle body conversion easily, you won't need to pull anything apart. Take the linkage from your throttle off the linkage controlling the ITBs. Now open the ITBs wide open, and lock the linkages in said position. Now add a single throttle body onto the front of your inlet plenum. No it's not ideal for the last nth of a kw, but it'll be a lot better than what you're already trying to do...   PS, ITBs can be so damn hard to tune from, because roughly 20% movement in a throttle body equates to a change in roughly 80% of its flow (Hence power). When you add up the flow limitations of those small throttle bodys, it is a LOT higher than that of a single large throttle. Hence, TPS is very very sensitive with them, and you do a LOT of work with sensor fusion, and some Maths behind the scenes to make those blends nice, and be smooth.
    • MBS206
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yep, when Haltech purchased Adaptronic, and all of the Adaptronic staff, including Andy went with it, it took Haltech to the next level. Haltech wanted Adaptronic as they wanted things like Andy's fuel models, and some other IP, AND they wanted Andy too as he is brilliant! Andy has spoken about the incompatibilities between the old 1500 stuff vs Nexxus, and it totally makes sense. It's not JUST software that is different, there is huge changes in the underlying hardware too. It's why Haltech has had soooo many changes in the last couple of years, in terms of Hardware, and Software, and why it has become so damn Amazing. Why do you think guys like Rob Dahm with his quad rotor, went from running Adaptronic's to running Haltechs? Andy. Pretty much, Haltech these days, is Adaptronic, but with more funds behind it, and more staff, and hence Andy's visions, and visions of other people that he helps shape their great visions, into amazing new products. All the new Nexxus gear, whole new software for it, new and better dashboards, the apps that will run on headunits and NOT be slow to respond! I understand people being burnt in the past, but if you're ragging on a company, about products and issues from many years ago, it's more a reflection on yourself, not looking or keeping up with new stuff. In which case, those people should be going back to PowerFC and Nistunes as the ECU's to rave on about...
    • joshuaho96
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Right, but I thought the problem has been for a while now that even if you know manifold pressure + throttle position you still have non-linearity and aliasing issues vs actual engine load? One way I can see things simplifying is going DBW, then all air going into the engine is represented by the throttle position. As opposed to a random bimetallic strip vaguely linked to engine temperature opening and closing a shutter or some random power steering air valve suddenly allowing a bunch of bypass air. But the same throttle position/RPM at ~atmospheric MAP in different gears is not guaranteed to be same engine load? Honestly, ITBs are of such dubious value IMO. I don't know why these things are hyped up so much. The main benefit as far as I can tell is you reduce the likelihood of cross-cylinder EGR scavenging with significant cam overlap at idle. I would absolutely run speed density and be done with it if not for this fairly esoteric control problem.
    • PotatoCake
      Alarm/immobiliser recomendations for an R33

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      Hah dont worry, my adult brain has this conversation every single day. Dont waste your money, invest more of it into shares, pay down the mortgage. Then the bedtime insta doom scrolling begins and after being bombarded with gtr's my mind is set: im definitely getting one! I have the current model mx5 as the weekender, but i just miss my boost and literally like your username, the sututu's that come with it. I remember with my 2nd supra, as it had twins and vvti, they used to spool real early, like 1,500rpm so you could just be a spooly boy all day long. Some people say they get over it after a while, not me tho. 
×
×
  • Create New...