Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK.

I have just fitted an 040 to my car and powered it vai direct feed from the battery using a relay to trigger the pump to turn on.

The pump is in and working, providing fuel pressure and starting the car. The problem is the pressure. I have a fuel pressure guage that mesures fuel pressure right after the fuel filter. (the silver round thing in the picture at the top left on the line marked fuel supply) My standard pump was providing 38psi. the new bosch 040 is providing well over 100psi!!!!!

OK so that is probably normal right?

I am really worried that the enging is seeing 100psi fuel pressure. I started the car and black unburnt fuel is coming out the exhaust.

engine.jpg

If you look the engine photo you will see that the fuel pressure regulator is in the RETURN line going AWAY from the engine. The fuel supply line does not look like it goes to the reg at all. it goes under it somewhere and I think strairgt to the fuel rails.

so it goes fuel supply>fuel rail>injectors>fuel pressure regulator>return to tank.

I am really confused and need help.

are my injectors getting 100psi fo pressure? They are hose and tail injectors and I don't want to even start the car with that kind of pressure.

should be fine, as the excess fuel is directed back to the tank.

if your really that worried, get a quick dyno readout done to check your afrs

I just drove the car and it is running so rich it will not accellerate under boost at all and clouds of black smoke come uot the exhaust. :P

looks like the reg can not cope. Can I put a reg inline just after the fuel filter? will that fix the problem?

Ok, Bit of an update....

When you start the car it stays on 46pis for about 10 seconds and then WHAM~~~~~ in an instant the guage goes to well over 100 psi (off the reading)

so I am thinking the reg can't hold the pressure of the pump and it shits itself.

So I guess I need a new pressure regulator.

Can anyone tell me where the hell I can get on in canberra today?

Cheers!!

The first thing i'd do is check that the return line to the tank isn't blocked. If it isn't move on to step 2

To get that sort of pressure (without a blocked return line) your reg would have to be stuck shut. I have an 044, stock reg and have base pressures below 40psi.

Don't get a reg before checking the return line! Oh yeah, you fuel hose probably wont be too happy with you either at those sort of pressures, partiularly if you haven't replaced it recently.

The first thing i'd do is check that the return line to the tank isn't blocked. If it isn't move on to step 2

To get that sort of pressure (without a blocked return line) your reg would have to be stuck shut. I have an 044, stock reg and have base pressures below 40psi.

Don't get a reg before checking the return line! Oh yeah, you fuel hose probably wont be too happy with you either at those sort of pressures, partiularly if you haven't replaced it recently.

Thanks BHdave, you were on the money with one thing.

I put the return line in a bucket and started the car. It flowed perfectly for 5 seconds and then nothing. the stopping of flow happend at exactly the same time as the guage went from 50psi to well over 100.

So the reg is just locking shut about 5 seconds after the engine is started.

'd be a bit careful with that sort of high extreme pressure

if one of the lines fails, shit will go bang big time with fuel going everywhere.

off topic, what engine ?

Yep there is no way I am even starting it again till I have replaced the reg. paulr33. The engine is a VG20DET with RB25 hiflowed turbo and methanol injection... and now a bloody rooted fuel reg :D

should be fine, as the excess fuel is directed back to the tank.

if your really that worried, get a quick dyno readout done to check your afrs

You've got to be kidding :D

Anyway, what BHdave said, he beat me to it :)

Pressure RISE is due to the reg, or something after it.

Poor pressure before the reg

thanks R31Nismod...

I laugh every time I see your avatar :D

I am thinking one of these sard regs will do the trick. I am not going to buy a malpassi as I have been told they are shit... Do these look genuine? seems like a really cheap price.SARD FPR

Edited by CEF11E

:D it is most amusing. Although it was put there by a certain admin and is most amusing, i think im a victim.

Whats wrong with using another stock reg?

RB25 stock regs are perfect for huge power

Im no VG expert, but i dare say its probably a very similar (if not the same) reg.

I am afraid if i get another stock reg it will do the same thing. Also the reg I have at the moment is twin entry so an rb25 one will need to be teed into.

I have already ordered one of the sard ones for $130. if it sucks I will cut it up into little pieces and set fire to it...

I am afraid if i get another stock reg it will do the same thing. Also the reg I have at the moment is twin entry so an rb25 one will need to be teed into.

I have already ordered one of the sard ones for $130. if it sucks I will cut it up into little pieces and set fire to it...

LoL if it sucks man, your car might set it on fire for you :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...