Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry buddy, was out late today and didn't have a chance to get pics, will definately get some and post em up tomorrow night.

On a side note, been stopped now by two R33 drivers commenting on the SKYLINE panel :)

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i did a setup like this on my 180sx i had a few years back. got the idea off a GT starlet that had a light up garnish. i just used a 8" neon and some alfoil to make it reflect like a headlight. worked well enough. going to do it to the skyline when i could be bothered.

Hey guys, I used to have one of the light up panels, believe it was genuine but who knows. . .

Used to until someone ran into the back of me anyways. the day after I got the car!!

Tried to get a replacement one but the only person I talked to who could get one wanted like $700 to get it in from Japan!

Ended up with the boring Silver painted panel. . .

The 'Skyline' writing has white paint on it applied from the inside, and the rest is just normal clear plastic, i think

Oh well

Later

post-29669-1150882272.jpg

Hey guys, I used to have one of the light up panels, believe it was genuine but who knows. . .

Used to until someone ran into the back of me anyways. the day after I got the car!!

Tried to get a replacement one but the only person I talked to who could get one wanted like $700 to get it in from Japan!

Ended up with the boring Silver painted panel. . .

The 'Skyline' writing has white paint on it applied from the inside, and the rest is just normal clear plastic, i think

Oh well

Later

yeah thats the genuine EL panel ones..

got a questions regarding this bread board ..

how do you cut it down to size neatly?

just picked some up for this other panel im doing... but instead of 5 rows that you need, its about 40 rows, but long enough to do the whole panel..

any hints?

I used a metal ruler and 'stanley' knife, then used a "bench mounted, grinding wheel" to smooth the edges. Or you can just use a file, it's only fibre-glass

yeah sweet

didn't get to see your post til now, but thats pretty much what i did anyway:)

cheers for that

might end up redoing my panel with 2 stage lights and run the 2V LED's that aare the 7000mva or whatever .. see how it goes

  • 3 months later...

Mine came stock with the car from japan, lights up blue. Didn't even no till i got home When i rang him up a few days later i asked him bout it and he said its an optional extra when u buy the car brand new over there, i'll take a pic at night and post it. i Dont know how its done and aint gonna try to find out on my own car, cause why f**k with somethin that aint broke haha

you can't have white pointing back unless it is the number plate light. otherwise cars may think it is a headlight.

i had a nice officer explain this to me one night. i didn't have any lights on my car, but i was just asking him because he had pulled me over because he was bored.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...