Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Gt-rs Dyno Result


Recommended Posts

As the title says here is a dyno sheet for a set gt-rs's on a 2.9l gtr engine. It needs bigger injectors as you can see it hasn't fallen over yet. Will post another sheet once the bigger injectors go in.

all the usual mods have been done, including these relavant ones;

gt-rs turbos

uas extrude honed manifolds

ces race style dumps and front pipe

trust tr exhaust

hks 280 10.7 intake, 288 11.0 exhaust cams

1mm o/s intake valves

cnc ported head

cp forged pistons

eagle h beam rods

stroker crank

power fc

z 32 afms

any questions just ask.

this run is at 16 pounds, pump fuel and injectors at max duty cyclepost-9006-1149294536.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Congrats. Theres definitely still more to go with bigger injectors and more boost!

Umm I just noticed that the BP on the shootout parameters is pretty damn low ie 98.8. That might be inflating the figures a bit?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The IT are also low, meaning the sensor wasnt in place, which will give you less power.

The hotter the IT the more power it will read due to corrections in the software.

Beside's that it looks very nice and still heading up not tappering off yet !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice result, but as per the above posts I agree that you have more power to come as the curve is still rising.

You have a similar setup to me Gav's Dyno Graph, however note that I have shorter final gears from a GTS4, so a direct km/h comparison isn't possible.

I still have some mixed emotions over the GT-RS terbs, however it is apparent (to me at least) that to get the best from these turbs on a 2.8L you still need to get some serious airflow through the engine. Big revs, high lift/long duration cams (I'm changing my Step 2 264 IN to a 270 duration) and head porting really makes a difference.

Good luck and drop me a PM if you want to chat.

Cheers

Gav

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks very good. Well done. Cant wait to see what some new injectors will do.

On the dyno parameter thing, if the IT sensor was not in place then how could it read 6 degrees under ambient? If anything shouldnt it read the same as ambient?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey guys, to answer some of the questions, its a modified rb 30 crank, eagle rb26 rods, this may sound strange but i dont even know what BP on that dyno chart means (im an engine machinist, and know very little about dyno set up), only just got the car back so not sure what rpm it hits full boost at but ill let you know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I modified the crank, so that i could use a 26 block, instead of an rb 30 block, so that all the outside components would fit up with out modification. The pistons are a custom order, with 22mm pin, the only rod modificatonn, is re-bushing to 22mm pin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BP is the barometric pressure. The usual is around 101 or there abouts. At a lower atmospheric BP, the engine will make less power due to the decreased density of the air. So with a lower BP, Shootout mode will correct the reading (ie inflate it) to match what the engine would make at roughly 101 (or whatever the Shootout mode considers standard). So like the temperature probe, false readings can give misleading dyno results. Ie low BP = increased power just like high ITs = increased power.

Anyways nice power man, keep up the good work. Once its finalised it must be a real beast, not that it isnt now already! And yeah, more details please!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i like the sound of this.. 3litre rb26 with out having to go the inch higher block .. hmm any chance of making a little kit :(

also wat sort of revs are you pulling with the modified crank?

Edited by rb26s13
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I modified the crank, so that i could use a 26 block, instead of an rb 30 block, so that all the outside components would fit up with out modification. The pistons are a custom order, with 22mm pin, the only rod modificatonn, is re-bushing to 22mm pin

Very interesting. So I assume you offset ground the crank to de stroke it a bit? Did you hardchrome it first, or are you running custom big end shells?

Was there enough meat in the ringlands to run such a low pin height (and 22mm pins)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The crank is de-stroked slightly, and heavily modified, using std rb26 shells (rb30 big ends are larger than rb26). Yeah the ring lands are fine, the pin is high, but no higher than on a lot of other long stroke engies. Details on the crank mods sound vague, but i dont have exact measurments of what i did. i made templates of the shapes i made everything so i can do it again, and am in the process of figuring out if i can offer the conversion at an economical price (there are a lot of hours of labour in the modifications). To do all the mods you need a lathe, mill, crank grinder and engine balancer. But should still be able to do something vastly cheaper than japanese alternatives.

Edited by mark99
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People still have Skylines? I thought they're non-existent now. 
    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
×
×
  • Create New...