Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

Stopped at a RBT today the ociffer says oi you carnt have anything mounted above the top of the steering wheel so next time i see you ill give you a infringement and defect for that okay.

thanks sir[me]

have a nice day[me]

ok you can go now[ociffer]

Have I got an argument next time or is he right about it, ive seen plenty of taxis with stuff above the wheel

or are they exempt from the rules.

I have a double pod an the boost guage is sitting prolly 3 inches higher than the top of the wheel.

any one done the research?

dunno wheather the engineer that passed the car last september just ignored it or new it was okay to have em there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120736-a-pillar-guages-nsw-rules/
Share on other sites

Hes right about it.

You cant have anything above cluster.

You can get defected for having those fluffy dices hangin from the mirror..

YOU are extremly he didnt get you for it.

I got my dual pillar ones, so hmm lets just hope i dont get defected for it.

Hes right about it.

You cant have anything above cluster.

You can get defected for having those fluffy dices hangin from the mirror..

YOU are extremly he didnt get you for it.

I got my dual pillar ones, so hmm lets just hope i dont get defected for it.

yep mine is dual pods on the a pillar he says nuthin allowed higher than the top of the wheel so a single would be ok cause the bottom pod is lower than the top of the wheel. i spose they would look for something else to ping. two stage boost controller maybe.

Nah you cant have single. Its still higher than the cluster. Well thats what i have been told anyways.

But ppl still do it. But i guess if they want to get you for something they would, even if you had a single guage holder.

Where are you from?

When i went to clear my defect the guy saw the A-Pillar Gauges. He wasnt sure whether they were allowed or not. He took a picture so that he could verify it with someone. Came back later in the week and he said that they were fine.

Where are you from?

look at the title..

and yes, in NSW u cant have anything above the steering wheel which is understandable, but also stupid.

ive been pulled over heaps of times and nothing has been said about gauges, but thats the last of my concern anyway

look at the title..

and yes, in NSW u cant have anything above the steering wheel which is understandable, but also stupid.

ive been pulled over heaps of times and nothing has been said about gauges, but thats the last of my concern anyway

i think its all down to attitude too, he didnt book me only asked what my daughter was doin with the laptop. in the passenger seat , she was monitoring the 02 guages for me in nissan datascan, we were on the first run after puttin in the r34 stock injectors. If your pleasant with the ociffers they usually treat u pleasantly. hey thay are human too.

or you can always act supid and dont know anything,

humm so i cant have an air fillter.. Humm :) Interesting

humm so i cant have gauges on the car, but they dont light up or flash at your face, is this still badd...

This was at a RBT on Grt Western Hwy

a female cop

Me; so what do i have to do now officer, i just bought the car and i dont know much really

Officer; ok ok you have to go to a mechanic to fix this up and he'll tell you whats is legal and what is not

me; ok so what ur telling me is i have to take the air fillter out and the gauges.

Officer; just go to a mechanic mate;

Me; Thank you officer will do, excuse me officer my friend is from london and he was woundering if he could take some phots oh your RBT set up, is this ok

Officer; no i dont like photos, just go

post-28942-1149325203.jpg

in NSW u cant have anything above the steering wheel which is understandable, but also stupid.

OK I am confused, Honda Civics have the speedo above the steering wheel. One of our cars has a heads up display, that is way above the steering wheel. An old car I owned once had the clock in the overhead console. I should also ask about electronic toll collection devices (E Tag), they are most certainly above the steering wheel.

I think you will find the “rule” is about obstructing vision, through the windscreen and the side windows in this case. If the gauge pod lines up with the A pillar (ie; doesn’t reduce the driver’s field of vision) then it is legal. As a comparison, bonnet mounted gauges definitely obstruct the driver’s vision, as does a monster tacho mounted on top of the dash.

Keep in mind the difference between “obstruction” and “distraction”. For example a TV screen in the centre console doesn’t “obstruct” your view. But it can sure as hell be a “distraction” and hence be considered illegal. Fuzzy dice could be considerd both a distraction (they move) and an obstruction, hence are considered illegal. Obviously a simple gauge is not a considered a distraction, as there are plenty of them in the instrument cluster.

This vision obstruction rule is common around the world, that’s why A pillar pod mounts are so popular, because they are designed to be basically legal.

My suggestion is, in the nicest possible way, explain calmly that you have checked with DOTARS, and since the gauges are not obstructing your vision, they are 100% legal.

>_< cheers :(

gary, i dont think it's just about vision obstruction/distraction it's also about being within striking range of your head in an accident. bascially they use a rule of thumb that anything above the crash pad can be struct by your head in an accident. you could get them engineered they take measurements from the seats headrest etc.

  • 2 weeks later...

Check out the cops own car next time ..especially if it is a highway car as they have a block of flats growing out of their dash - radar /cameras front and rear and then they want to book us for the same thing. It really makes me laugh that we can get a lecture on safety etc and their own cars don"t comply or are exempt.(OH&S/ADR"s must not apply to the Police force). Having said that ATTITUDE is the most important ingredient in driving away without a ticket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...