New Intercooler

[pplo]

Hi All,

I have just installed a new intercooler on my r33 and after driving it, it seems heaps less responsive (accept that with a bigger intercooler)...

However it seems like my car has lost power!! ... even up in the high rev range it seems less power is being produced as compared to stock IC ..

This is not leaking boost anywhere in the IC cause my boost guage is hitting the same point as when the stock IC was on..

My question is this.. Can this be because when you install an intercooler you run more lean? .. i.e. more air is being forced into engine ..?

I have not got an aftermarket ECU yet, but would this help my problem??

thanks in advance!

pplo

[QRI05E]

If anything im sure a FMIC will make your car run more rich... whats the size of the core? whats the diameter of the pipes used???

you will need to pump another 2 - 3 psi to feel the power gain...

Regards,

Sarkis

Edited June 3, 2006 by QRI05E

[LatinR33]

I agree will run richer if anything. what other mods do you have??? A guy i know has a full turbo back exhaust with a split dump and a fmic which uses the factory piping and the car runs the same just better on warmer days. so yeh things may vary from skyline to skyline then. i guess running more boost will help.

[pplo]

damn i wish i could pump some more psi,,, im at 10psi with stock turbo (97 33 s2) ...

i got a hybrid GT Spec kit 600 x 300 x 80 ...

mods:

hks pod,

turbo back 3 inch exhaust (catco cat) ..

turbotech mbc @ 10psi

Apexi BOV

Edited June 3, 2006 by pplo

[Abo Bob]

Put it up to 12-12 psi on the street and enjoy.

[psybic]

Is it possible you have a bit of a leak with your new install? This will certainly cause some lagginess and loss of power as the afm will be reporting the incorrect amount of air flow.

[LatinR33]

Psybic could be right also. with 10psi and a front mount everything should be good. Like i was saying if your running stock boost and a front mount and a turbo back throttle response will drop a bit but nothing so noticeable. so with 10psi your car should be kicking some serious butt. Apexi bov ay hmmm not a fan of bovs this could be making it run even richer if your not running a aftermarket piggyback or ecu. Check for leaks . did you do it yourself or get it proffessionally??

[pplo]

hey latin,,

got it installed professionally.. how can i check for leaks..? i thought the obvious way was to watch the boost guage and see if it differs from when the fmic wasnt installed..?

if thats the case,, it sits exactly where it was before the install (with the std IC) ...

might try 12 psi and see how i go ... fingers crossed that i dont fry my exhaust wheel..

Thanks

[justin911]

try 9psi and see how she goes

[RRob]

How did they connect up wastegate actuator?

It needs to be connected to the cooler pipe just after the turbo not inlet manifold?

PS factory position is in the cooler pipe.

[psybic]

To add to leaks problem theory. as any MAP - MAF argument will tell you, BOOST is NOT FLOW. you can easily boost up to 10-12psi with a boost leak as long as its not to big. You won't boost as fast, cause it has to flow out the leak as well as into your engine. To add to slow turbo response with a leak, you'll have wrong amount of air flow being reported, as the afm hasn't considered a leak. watching a boost gauge isn't the way to check for a leak. physical check of all connections would be a good start.

[pplo]

hey all,

this is how they hooked up my manual boost controller after the cooler install..

it differed to what i originally had, but hold the same boost constantly..

does it look ok?

this is what i originally had...

thanks!!

mbc.bmp

Edited June 7, 2006 by pplo

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

get a nipple welded on..

by having your actuator connected to the inlet manifold the hoses are longer to the actuator, people always recommend that the hoses are as short as possible.

That should solve alot of problems, and for the installer, go shoot him.

[pplo]

get a nipple welded on..

by having your actuator connected to the inlet manifold the hoses are longer to the actuator, people always recommend that the hoses are as short as possible.

That should solve alot of problems, and for the installer, go shoot him.

haha,, so is the way he hooked it up gonna cause any problems? or is it just a way everyone else wouldnt do it?

should i be worried?

it seems to go ok,, i.e. hold same boost and all..

cheers!

pplo

[RRob]

Get it changed as it was factory and you will feel the difference imediately..

Has nothing to do with hose length. its the feed location..

[chrissso]

If its connected to the plenum, the actuator will cop a load of vacuum at idle. I don't think that the actuator will handle vacuum very well. (going by others on the forum).

Also, because the bleed valve is hooked up behind the throttle, it will suck in air on idle (if not gated) and cause the idle to go up a bit, and the bov wont see a full vacuum when the throttle is closed.

On the other hand, this is how the dogdy bloke who I bought my car off had it setup. And, it worked OK, however, I got a nipple welded on and all is good. Saw some much better gains with engine management. Either Safc or Power FC is the go. However, you need the supporting mods first like the intercooler, exhaust, boost controller fuel pump, etc.

[pplo]

ok thanks guys!!

if any of you have a pic of the welded nipple on your IC pipes that would be sweet!!

especially if you have a Hybrid IC kit..

thanks..

pplo

[hayden49]

Just as a point of interest, where did you buy the nipple from and where did you get it welded on?

I was just going to ring some exhaust shops about it.

my cooler pipes are alluminium so i need to find someone profficient at welding it.

at the moment ive got the line t'd off to my BOV vacum line and the boost is spiky and it feels like ive lost power.

cheers

[chrissso]

Here is my setup as requested.

1st photo is the cover over my air filter, this is to show you that my setup is different. My cooler and piping uses the stock holes.

The next is with the cover and air filter pushed out of the way.

And then a close up of the teat.

I had a threaded socket welded in, then a brass pressure hose fitting screwed in.

An engineering shop on Brisbane Rd, Gold Coast did it. I think it was Pro Force.

[pplo]

thanks chrisso for the pics..

i found out today that the metal securing ring whcih is the last ring before the cooler air gets forced back into the intake chamber was loose as!!!

like hanging off,, haha ..

tightened it up and she goes like a rocket now

still cant believe the difference!!

must of leaking some serious boost!

pplo