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around 500ish from the wreckers i suppose.

recommend to get your calipers rebuilt too as you dont know how long they've been sitting there.

i've done the gtst brake caliper upgrade (keeping 4 stud)

NA_R33 has done the whole 5 stud upgrade incl. calipers

sheeesh $500 i was thinking couple hundred max lol.

how much did the gtst brake caliper upgrade set ya back mate?

lol $500 is cheap!! you got to think about, brake pads, rebuilt calipers, maybe master cylinder, the little shim kit, brake fluid, then wheel alignment. ahaha it all ads up. or you could just buy them chuck em on and not worry about the details, but with brakes its not something you'd want to skimp on

back when i did mine about a year ago up probably cost about $800+.

i've got r32 gtst slotted dba rotors with custom 4 studs

r32 gtst front calipers with ADR approved telfon coated braided lines

r32 gtst standard rear rotors redrilled to 4 stud

r32 gtst calipers

running bendix ultimates on the front, and some random brand rears

also running motul rbf600 brake fluid.

new shim kit from nissan was ~$100, and a rebuild (forgot how much)

brakes considerably better than the old set (basically twice as many pistons now) from 6 to 12 :D

more importantly less brake fade!

also brakes pretty hard that the nose just dips and lifting the rear end making it a bit loose :P

edit: just noticed you had a gts4, which means you'll probably have abs narrowing your choices. i'd be more inclinded to spend a little more and go with gtr running gear.

im just about to undertake the 5stud conversoin on my r33 gts.

for it all to bolt on (im sure for rearwheel drive) from the turbo car you need the brake discs and calipers and 5stud hubs. (if your car is ABS it has to be from a car that had ABS) plus some 5 stud wheels plus the extra wheel nuts :(

from your car you can use the existing brake lines but i have been told you have to cut down the banjo bolt. otherwise just get the brake lines with your 5 stud conversoin and it will all bolt right on.

the other thing i have been told to do is to change the brake master and slave cylinder as you might find poor pedal pressure using your old ones.

as your car is 4wd you will probly need GTR hubs. but you would probly be best talking to nissan or a nissan wreakers. have you investiageted r32 gts4 hubs?

damn 500bux from a wreakers!! thats crazy cheep. i just paid $600 for a set off my local internet auction site. wreakers ask up to $800 bux here as there the brakes that all drifters like to use.

Was chatting to a mates dad on the weekend who happens to be an automotive engineer. We were discussing the same thing. He suggested instead of spending all that money on doing the 5 stud conversion as you would need

- 5 stud rims and tyres anywhere from $1700 up depending on whether you skimp or not

- brake rotors

- calipers

- The actual 5 stud hubs.

It can end up quite costly. One option he suggested was to look through the dba catalogue and see if youy can find some rotors with the same stud setup as the skyline. Then buy new/used/reconditioned calipers. It also depends if your planning on bolting on a turbo etc later on and what power your hoping to get. I know the galant vr-4 used a 4 stud setup. 4 stud hubs in good condition should be able to take 200rwkw.

Hello,

i have ENR33 too and finished 5-stud conversion a month ago. That`s what you have to know:

front:

- you can not fit gtst hubs since we have 4wd cars. You have to look for complete knuckles from HNR32, BNR32/33/34, WGNC34. It is mush easier to change the knuckle complete assy. The other way is to buy 5stud hubs and new wheel bearings and leave your knuckles but changing wheel bearings is a big work.

- use bolts from your car for the calipers.

- caliper options are: "sumitomos" from HCR32, ECR33 (BNR32 early model) or even brembos from BNRs, but they are expensive. Using HCR32 calipers can be done even if you leave your 4-stud disks -- they are for small disk.

- to fit the brake lines you will have to shorten enr33 caliper bolt or use a bolt for Toyota (p/n 9040110045) -- it is short by default and has the same thread pattern. This is the easiest way, but the right way to fit the brake lines -- is to use metal tubes from BNR33 or HNR32 or smth like that. There is no need to change rubber hoses.

- don not try to disassemble calipers (4 bolts on the caliper) -- there is no need for this and it will leak if you do this.

I`ve changed front brakes and knuckles in 4 hours both. I had knuckles from HNR32 and rotors and calipers from ECR33 + toyota eye-bolts for banjo connection.

rear:

Your options are: complete knuckle set from 5-stud _non_ hicas Skyline -- hard to get. HICAS knuckles has different bearings, shock absorber connection -- they aren`t bolt-on.

The best way is to find iron (not alluminum) knuckles from old (i think 89-91 year) hicas hcr32 -- the wheel bearing can swapped right to enr33 knuckle. This was my way to do it. Just undo driveshaft nut and 4 bolts holding the bearing -- and exchange bearings with the hub.

It was hard to undo anchor pin nut and it was real hard to remove the bearing from the knuckle because of rust -- WD40 and a sledge hammer will help you.

The handbrake swaps without problems, don`t forget to release handbrake adjustment nut inside the car before you disassemble rear brakes.

Brake piping depends on what calipers you will have. ENR33 hose is female on the car side and banjo on the caliper side.

When you will be bleeding the system -- disconnect the battery negative terminal.

It take a full day for me to swap all brakes.

p.s. i was lucky my enr33 come from Japan with 4/5 holes aftermarket disks -- so i left my summer wheels, but i still have to find a new winter wheels :D

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