Cost Of Getting A Turbo Hi-flowed

[Quinny]

Sorry if this has been asked 1000 times, I searched but couldn't find anything useful.

I am wondering what the cost of getting a standard R33 turbo hi-flowed would be. I would like to be able to safely run say 14psi or so.

Also, does anyone know any decent workshops in Sydney that do this?

Edited June 4, 2006 by Quinny

[mad082]

gcg do them. $1950. rated at 450hp. they have a steel exhaust wheel so it will run 14psi safely. you will need an after market ecu to run that amount of boost, expecially with a high flowed turbo.

www.gcg.com.au

Edited June 4, 2006 by mad082

[Quinny]

Thanks mate. I didn't realise it was that much. It that a price for a turbo outright or an exchange (or "they do mine") basis?

I will be running a Power FC, I am just looking a little past the basic mods for when the horsepower bug bites a little deeper. I suppose I will probably need bigger injectors and fuel pump while I am at it too....

[siddr20]

You will need bigger injectors and fuel pump also!! more cost!! easily adds up to 3k..

Check out GCG website or email them for more details..

[Quinny]

You will need bigger injectors and fuel pump also!! more cost!! easily adds up to 3k..

Check out GCG website or email them for more details..

Yeah, I gave GCG a ring, it is $1950 to my turbo, they do a full rebuild with steel wheels etc, so it is probably worth it.

I will have a look at injectors, and I got a price on a GTR pump brand new from Nissan $800, plus needs to get ordered from Japan - stuff that. I have a mate who works in a jap wreckers, I will get him to keep an eye out for me.

Is it possible to get around the 300-350rwhp mark running a hi-flowed turbo, FMIC & PowerFC on 14psi, with a GTR fuel pump and bigger injectors?

Edited June 5, 2006 by Quinny

[paulr33]

250+ rwkw is easily possible with a hiflow, powerfc, full exhaust, injectors and pump. you can use a 2nd hand gtr pump for around $250 mark. you can use s15 manual JDM injectors which are 480cc or you can go for nismo 550cc injectors.

you'll also need

heavy duty clutch

good tyres

suitable fmic

suitable cold air intake

boost controller (or pfc boost kit)

[bazr33]

depends what your wanting to do aswell

gcg do a ball bearing steel wheel hiflow

I have a plain bearing steel wheel with a 270 thrust bearing.

currently on 12psi making 306hp at the wheels

i have power fc walbro fuel pump, boost controller

all the usual stuff

I am up for injectors which i have jsut bought

getting a z32afm and a fuel reg, which in the process of getting

then bumping it up to 18psi, should have 350hp at the wheels then.

i will let ya know if ya want

but even on a plain bearing hiflow, i have proof that it can make it, and it will go to 350hp.

Just that with mine i have to insure theres enough oil getting flowed in the turbo , cause of more heat produced, and also takes a lil bit longer to spool up, which isnt noticable i dont think anyway.

[Quinny]

250+ rwkw is easily possible with a hiflow, powerfc, full exhaust, injectors and pump. you can use a 2nd hand gtr pump for around $250 mark. you can use s15 manual JDM injectors which are 480cc or you can go for nismo 550cc injectors.

you'll also need

heavy duty clutch

good tyres

suitable fmic

suitable cold air intake

boost controller (or pfc boost kit)

Thanks Paul, here is what I had in mind:

Hi-flowed turbo (rebuilt by GCG) @ 14psi (or there abouts)

Full turbo-back 3" exhaust

Electronic Boost controller

Power FC

ARC turn-flow FMIC

GTR fuel pump

Aftermarket injectors - haven't decided which ones yet

stock plenum, throttle-body etc.

AFM - not sure what to do here, maybe Z32 item?

I already have an Exedy heavy duty (Sports Tuff) clutch - brand new,

tyres are good (but I expect I will probably go through a few more),

Standard airbox with K&N filter with custom CAI setup (not sure how this is going to work yet)

Will this be enough to get around the 350rwhp mark? Not that the dyno readout really matters, mid 12s would be nice.

Edited June 5, 2006 by Quinny

[mad082]

around 330-340hp will get you at 12.5 second pass if you launch clean and drive well.

you may have to run a bit more boost though to get the power. have a read through the dyno section to get a rough idea of what power you will get. time wise it will come down to driving.

[Tangles]

Just that with mine i have to insure theres enough oil getting flowed in the turbo , cause of more heat produced, and also takes a lil bit longer to spool up, which isnt noticable i dont think anyway.

How do you do this?? ie ensure perfect oil flow for a bushbearing turbo?

[mad082]

would partly come down to making sure the oil was thin enough, and when its cold not boosting till the oil had come up to temperature. as you know when oil is cold it is thicker, and when its thicker it doesn't flow as well and doesn't lubricate as well.

[Tangles]

would partly come down to making sure the oil was thin enough, and when its cold not boosting till the oil had come up to temperature. as you know when oil is cold it is thicker, and when its thicker it doesn't flow as well and doesn't lubricate as well.

Thats cool - I can live with Penrite 5w-60w oil LOL

nice and thin.

From what I understand bushbearing hiflow turbos (say with 360 thrust bearing) require a constant 'good' flow of oil, otherwise BOOM and its a waste of money. Just that Im considering Slide's turbo for $940 rather than the GCG 2k option. Is there any sort of 'unit' out there that ensures loads of oil is pumped thru the turbo?

Id rather use my 'savings' on larger injectors and a full safc/sitc retune at 1bar, then spend all my hard earned on a 2k highflow (albeit ball-bearing) turbo and have no cash to retune!

Also - how long does oil take to get up to temperature? I live in Adelaide, so we have hot summers, nice springs and autumns, and cold winters mornings.

Cheers - Brendan

Edited June 5, 2006 by Tangles

[Abo Bob]

5w60 is thin when cold but pretty damn thick when hot.

GCG do charge $1950 for a highflow but you get 10% off if you are an SAU NSW Club member. Membership is $60. You do the math.

A second hand GTR pump is a cheap way to go and will cover you.

Need injectors to take full advantage of the turbo but you will probably be putting more boost than 14psi in it if you want to run mid 12's. Also need to know how to drive.

[Quinny]

Thanks Bob, I will be getting the cooler, computer & boost controller pretty soon. The turbo rebuild, injectors, fuel pump & AFM will come later, I am just getting ideas for now. Ideally, a mid 12 would be nice, I don't want to go berzerk throwing heaps of money at the car, I want to play it safe and reliable, anything over 300rwhp and 12.anything will be fine. But above all, the car has to be 100% reliable, it is a street car, not a race car.

[siddr20]

just a quick question on injectors.

how far do the stock ones flow and what are they rated at in term of cc??

[Tangles]

5w60 is thin when cold but pretty damn thick when hot.

so, I gather thats bad then.

whats a good oil for a thrust-bearing hiflow turbocharger then? Im confused to say the least, and Ive done a lot of reading on howstuffworks.com!

sorry, but I continually hear (some) nasty things about GCG! putting me off............ although I have heard many good things about GCG too.

now if only I was a

[bazr33]

i just bought my hiflow plain bearing off a mate for 800 bucks

had slight play in it, but i got it rebalanced anyway, for like 200 bucks

also the fact that with the plain bearing they are rebuildable

im not sure about ball bearing are or not.

but theres not that often ya see ball bearing turbos exploding, only if putting stupid boost through them or something is goin on with the cooling side.

but as mad082 said

i dont boost when just started car, i wait till my temp gauge goes up

i have my turbo timer set on 40 sec when turning off car

i have my boost set on 12psi, and dont regularly hit 12 anyway.

And 5000km oil changes, with castrol gtx3 oil

[paulr33]

yep you got it right and to anyone else reading you shouldn't determine how much power or how fast a car will go based on how much boost you plan to run. boost means nothing, its merely pressure in the manifold.

you should predicate how much power you wish to make, from that you can work how much airflow is required and then select a suitable compressor and turbocharger combination.

saying i want to run 17psi daily means nothing

17psi on a hiflow and 17psi on a gt30 are two completely different things and each obviously flows its own amount of air. ie: a stock turbo at 7psi and a gt40 at 7psi. the gt40 will flow stacks more air at the same boost pressure

[VB-]

17psi on a hiflow and 17psi on a gt30 are two completely different things and each obviously flows its own amount of air. ie: a stock turbo at 7psi and a gt40 at 7psi. the gt40 will flow stacks more air at the same boost pressure

could some-one explain this to me, as i never understood it. psi/bar/kpa is pressure, not cfm (actual amount of flow), so how can there physically be more air if theres the same pressure? if u had a stock turbo, or a T88H-38GK, if the boost signal is being taken from the same point, with the same amount of pressure, how do the big turbos flow more? i know they do, i dont doubt htis, i just dont understand it.

back to the main point, 14psi is less than 1.0bar, do u really think the stock turbo will fail this low? dont pay 2 grand to get your turbo hi-flowed, try one of the KKR-480s, there like $900, dump pipe 150 to suit it, and there are dyno graphs of RB25 making 263rwkw (albeit at 19psi). bosche pump about $400, bigger injectors, power fc, front mount should do it, then clutch tyres suspension brakes. not much ey

oh yeah, and the turbos come with a 6 month warranty too

Edited June 5, 2006 by VB-

[R33S2]

I discussed the oil supply question with an engineer, he recommended a small reseviour that is pressurised from oil pump and naturally drains to turbo, I really don't like the idea much but he swears by it.