Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could be going to pick up a 32 GTR within the next week or so.

Has a standard setup, and i am looking to throw on some GT-SS turbo's pretty much as soon as I get it.

Ive have seen on a coulpe of other 32 GTR's that people are making approx. 260awkw (290rwkw?) on about 1.2 bar?

Im just wondering now, am I able to make that same power safely? What are the limits of the r32 gtr's standard Injectors and fuel setup as the last thing I want is detonation.

Cheers,

Brett.

Edited by Brett_A
  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well firstly if you are going to push the stock pump and injectors a bit there a few things i would do. firstly have your injectors removed then cleaned and flowed and re-installed (highest flowing to the back, and lowest at the front). Then i'd reccomend using a power FC or similar so that once you put on the turbos you can have the car tuned to suit that much airflow. put on a fuel pressure gauge whilst it's on the dyno and look for any tapering off of fuel pressure up in the revs (indicating pump out of flow or failing). Providing you do all this, with a fairly safe (rich) tune you should be able to get 260awkw no problem, injectors will be on 100% duty though so just keep an eye on the AFRs on the dyno and the fuel pressure.

enjoy :(

well firstly if you are going to push the stock pump and injectors a bit there a few things i would do. firstly have your injectors removed then cleaned and flowed and re-installed (highest flowing to the back, and lowest at the front). Then i'd reccomend using a power FC or similar so that once you put on the turbos you can have the car tuned to suit that much airflow. put on a fuel pressure gauge whilst it's on the dyno and look for any tapering off of fuel pressure up in the revs (indicating pump out of flow or failing). Providing you do all this, with a fairly safe (rich) tune you should be able to get 260awkw no problem, injectors will be on 100% duty though so just keep an eye on the AFRs on the dyno and the fuel pressure.

enjoy :D

Ok cool. I was planning on getting a power FC as well. Have about 6k spare, so I figure I should be able to get some GT-SS turbo's, power fc and a tune and maybe a little left over for new injectors, otherwise will just rebuild them like you said.

If I do opt to upgrade the injectors, should I aim to do the pump at the same time or are people able to achieve a fair bit more power with the standard pump?

stock pump will be good for well over 300rwkw...

injectors depends on your tune/fuel pressure etc... You tuner would be the best person to ask these questions - he's the one who knows what he's going to do.

What state of Australia do you live in? :)

Queensland. But im all the way up in Cairns with limited tuners.

My plan IS to upgrade the fuel setup so I can have more boost, but was just wondering because I dont have the biggest budget.

Thanks for the replies :D

Edited by Brett_A
forget boost for a minute, do you have access to premium 98 ron fuel all the time? if not then this is certainly going to impact the tune and power you make

Yeah mate, thats all good. Using BP ultimate in my fully sik VL turbo at the moment.

Im actually thinking about heading towards the hks 25/30's instead of GT-SS's.

Ive been reading a few threads, and peoples opinions are that they tend to run out of puff up in the top end. And if my goal is to achieve 350awkw in the end, the GT-SS turbos would be around their limit wouldnt they?

GT-SS will be to small for 350awkw - they are more suited to around 300-320kw.

If you want 350 you will need 2530, etc

PS - can anyone tell me the size of stock R34 GTR injectors???

Yeah mate, thats all good. Using BP ultimate in my fully sik VL turbo at the moment.

Im actually thinking about heading towards the hks 25/30's instead of GT-SS's.

Ive been reading a few threads, and peoples opinions are that they tend to run out of puff up in the top end. And if my goal is to achieve 350awkw in the end, the GT-SS turbos would be around their limit wouldnt they?

youll find that going from an rb30et to an rb26 in terms of response will be a big step down even if the 26 is stock turboed. now, planning to put on 25/30s will make it a even more laggy and a huge shock. thats ok if you dont mind the lag, but if you plan to drive the car mainly on the street then you may be a little disappointed. if you like that low-mid torque of the rb30, then stick with the GT-SS turbos as they offer similar spool to the stockies.

i know i noticed a big response difference with a stock turboed 32 GTR after driving a mildy modified 30et and stock rb25 for the last few years.

i would suggest you upgrade the pump and injectors at the same time. for me it would be hard to go past a set of sard 700cc injectors and a nismo pump. pefect match for each other. it's piece of mind on a tuned 32 as your 32 pump is starting to get on a bit in years...

Beer Baron,

So its perfectly normal to see 80% duty or there abouts on the stock rb26 injectors with around 230rwkw?

mmmm, you thinking what i'm thinking Joel?

For you other guys i'm getting 85% duty cycle on the power fc with GTR injectors and GTR fuel pump! (228rwkws)(RB30DET)

Edited by mr_rbman
Beer Baron,

So its perfectly normal to see 80% duty or there abouts on the stock rb26 injectors with around 230rwkw?

yep. no problem at all. dont forget that as there is no feedback to the ecu when giving it some the duty cycle is just an output caused by the number plugged into the fuel map at that load/rpm point. In my GTR with quite a rich tune, i can brush 100% at 253rwkw. as long as the AFRs are good and fuel pressure is not dropping off up top (sign of weak pump) it's not a major concern unless of course you want more power which will need more fuel.

but short answer: 80% duty, with 230rwkw with safe tune sounds about right to me :laugh:

yep. no problem at all. dont forget that as there is no feedback to the ecu when giving it some the duty cycle is just an output caused by the number plugged into the fuel map at that load/rpm point. In my GTR with quite a rich tune, i can brush 100% at 253rwkw. as long as the AFRs are good and fuel pressure is not dropping off up top (sign of weak pump) it's not a major concern unless of course you want more power which will need more fuel.

but short answer: 80% duty, with 230rwkw with safe tune sounds about right to me :P

bugger, i was hoping to get 270-280rwkw's from mine! With a FPR!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Already looked at a few prior to getting the MX5, really nice car, had all the mod cons, but I wasn't really sold on the new "look" I did miss my 2017 Limited, and I personally prefer the "look" of the older car over the new model, but, when pondering I kept going back looking at MX5's But it was same same for the new ND's, I wasn't sold on the new "look", especially the RF with its weird roof, which only half goes down, like a targa top sort of thing As I stated before, I did look at NC's, but the cars I looked at were PRHT's, but I didn't like their roof line "look" of the PRHT, until I saw the soft top version, (someone on SAU posted a for sale ad for one with a soft top that caught my attention, you can blame them for my choice.....🤣) and.... that old style detachable hard tops were available for them, which keeps the old MX5 more smoother flowing roof line, and the more rounded body style, similar to the NA-NB, to me, the arse end of the ND looks to "modern" Much like how I prefer the NC1 front bar, over the later models How long will I keep this car for is unknown, but currently, there's nothing else out there that "floats my boat" for a small, fun, little "sports car", that I can play with and enjoy looking at and driving But, who knows what the future holds, and going off current new car styling, if I replace it, it will be a older model something something       
    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
×
×
  • Create New...