Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could be going to pick up a 32 GTR within the next week or so.

Has a standard setup, and i am looking to throw on some GT-SS turbo's pretty much as soon as I get it.

Ive have seen on a coulpe of other 32 GTR's that people are making approx. 260awkw (290rwkw?) on about 1.2 bar?

Im just wondering now, am I able to make that same power safely? What are the limits of the r32 gtr's standard Injectors and fuel setup as the last thing I want is detonation.

Cheers,

Brett.

Edited by Brett_A
  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well firstly if you are going to push the stock pump and injectors a bit there a few things i would do. firstly have your injectors removed then cleaned and flowed and re-installed (highest flowing to the back, and lowest at the front). Then i'd reccomend using a power FC or similar so that once you put on the turbos you can have the car tuned to suit that much airflow. put on a fuel pressure gauge whilst it's on the dyno and look for any tapering off of fuel pressure up in the revs (indicating pump out of flow or failing). Providing you do all this, with a fairly safe (rich) tune you should be able to get 260awkw no problem, injectors will be on 100% duty though so just keep an eye on the AFRs on the dyno and the fuel pressure.

enjoy :(

well firstly if you are going to push the stock pump and injectors a bit there a few things i would do. firstly have your injectors removed then cleaned and flowed and re-installed (highest flowing to the back, and lowest at the front). Then i'd reccomend using a power FC or similar so that once you put on the turbos you can have the car tuned to suit that much airflow. put on a fuel pressure gauge whilst it's on the dyno and look for any tapering off of fuel pressure up in the revs (indicating pump out of flow or failing). Providing you do all this, with a fairly safe (rich) tune you should be able to get 260awkw no problem, injectors will be on 100% duty though so just keep an eye on the AFRs on the dyno and the fuel pressure.

enjoy :D

Ok cool. I was planning on getting a power FC as well. Have about 6k spare, so I figure I should be able to get some GT-SS turbo's, power fc and a tune and maybe a little left over for new injectors, otherwise will just rebuild them like you said.

If I do opt to upgrade the injectors, should I aim to do the pump at the same time or are people able to achieve a fair bit more power with the standard pump?

stock pump will be good for well over 300rwkw...

injectors depends on your tune/fuel pressure etc... You tuner would be the best person to ask these questions - he's the one who knows what he's going to do.

What state of Australia do you live in? :)

Queensland. But im all the way up in Cairns with limited tuners.

My plan IS to upgrade the fuel setup so I can have more boost, but was just wondering because I dont have the biggest budget.

Thanks for the replies :D

Edited by Brett_A
forget boost for a minute, do you have access to premium 98 ron fuel all the time? if not then this is certainly going to impact the tune and power you make

Yeah mate, thats all good. Using BP ultimate in my fully sik VL turbo at the moment.

Im actually thinking about heading towards the hks 25/30's instead of GT-SS's.

Ive been reading a few threads, and peoples opinions are that they tend to run out of puff up in the top end. And if my goal is to achieve 350awkw in the end, the GT-SS turbos would be around their limit wouldnt they?

GT-SS will be to small for 350awkw - they are more suited to around 300-320kw.

If you want 350 you will need 2530, etc

PS - can anyone tell me the size of stock R34 GTR injectors???

Yeah mate, thats all good. Using BP ultimate in my fully sik VL turbo at the moment.

Im actually thinking about heading towards the hks 25/30's instead of GT-SS's.

Ive been reading a few threads, and peoples opinions are that they tend to run out of puff up in the top end. And if my goal is to achieve 350awkw in the end, the GT-SS turbos would be around their limit wouldnt they?

youll find that going from an rb30et to an rb26 in terms of response will be a big step down even if the 26 is stock turboed. now, planning to put on 25/30s will make it a even more laggy and a huge shock. thats ok if you dont mind the lag, but if you plan to drive the car mainly on the street then you may be a little disappointed. if you like that low-mid torque of the rb30, then stick with the GT-SS turbos as they offer similar spool to the stockies.

i know i noticed a big response difference with a stock turboed 32 GTR after driving a mildy modified 30et and stock rb25 for the last few years.

i would suggest you upgrade the pump and injectors at the same time. for me it would be hard to go past a set of sard 700cc injectors and a nismo pump. pefect match for each other. it's piece of mind on a tuned 32 as your 32 pump is starting to get on a bit in years...

Beer Baron,

So its perfectly normal to see 80% duty or there abouts on the stock rb26 injectors with around 230rwkw?

mmmm, you thinking what i'm thinking Joel?

For you other guys i'm getting 85% duty cycle on the power fc with GTR injectors and GTR fuel pump! (228rwkws)(RB30DET)

Edited by mr_rbman
Beer Baron,

So its perfectly normal to see 80% duty or there abouts on the stock rb26 injectors with around 230rwkw?

yep. no problem at all. dont forget that as there is no feedback to the ecu when giving it some the duty cycle is just an output caused by the number plugged into the fuel map at that load/rpm point. In my GTR with quite a rich tune, i can brush 100% at 253rwkw. as long as the AFRs are good and fuel pressure is not dropping off up top (sign of weak pump) it's not a major concern unless of course you want more power which will need more fuel.

but short answer: 80% duty, with 230rwkw with safe tune sounds about right to me :laugh:

yep. no problem at all. dont forget that as there is no feedback to the ecu when giving it some the duty cycle is just an output caused by the number plugged into the fuel map at that load/rpm point. In my GTR with quite a rich tune, i can brush 100% at 253rwkw. as long as the AFRs are good and fuel pressure is not dropping off up top (sign of weak pump) it's not a major concern unless of course you want more power which will need more fuel.

but short answer: 80% duty, with 230rwkw with safe tune sounds about right to me :P

bugger, i was hoping to get 270-280rwkw's from mine! With a FPR!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...