Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ahoi hoi, first post here. yet to be a skyline owner but hopefully will be by year's end. i was hoping to just get some opinions from those experienced before i throw my money at a any old skyline. i'm pretty much thinking to buy a relatively stock r32gtst and i want to spend around $12k. however there are a couple things i wanna know first. mainly just how much difference there is between a gtr and the good ol' gtst. obviously engine and capacity is one, but will a worked rb20det be able to match a worked rb26? or are they just completely different and am i better off forking out the extra few grand for a gtr in the first place? or how would an rb26 fair in a gtst and what costs am i looking at for that?

i have a lot more questions but i think that may be enough for one post. any help would be appreciated, cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121023-what-skyline-to-buy/
Share on other sites

Welcome dude.

The difference between an R32 GTST and a GTR is pretty big. Everything costs more on a GTR, just getting a workshop to pull the turbos off is NOT cheap. People are spending $$$$ fixing/maintaining 32 GTR's now as they are all over 10yrs old. A GTST is a much cheaper simpler easier car to live with. And slower. But slower doesnt mean less fun.

1. You would have to spend a little coin to get a 20 up to the standard of a 26, but then a 26 with boost/exhaust/fmic/ecu is going to destroy that 20.

2. The 26 will bolt into the GTST.

3. A GTST is lighter, easier to drive (you don't have to get your head around the 4wd system) and would by far be the best option for someone new to the cars with a budget. A 12K R32 GTST will be fun, but it wont be the most sorted package around if you know what I mean....

4. You should buy my R31. It has lots of power (RB25DET) R32 GTSt brakes that can handle trackwork, and a full aftermarket suspension setup. $10k. No more mods needed, fully developed.

not only is ther a huge power diff between the GTSt and the GTR, ther is a big price diff...u can pik up a nice gtst for 12k or even cheaper, but a gtr....over 20, easily. a worked rb20 aint gonna get anywhere near a worked rb26. i have lightly modded gtst (exhaust+dump pipe, remapped ECU, boosted to 12psi) and that is still way way off matchin a stock rb26. u can make a 32gtst move, but u cant expect to keep up with a worked GTR (unless u chuck an rb26 in ther).

ok so it looks like forkin out for an rb26 to cuck in the gtst will most likely be the go for me. any clue how much a recon'd one might cost? i'm guessing probably about a 5k mark hopefully? assuming it's had nothing major done to it? or maybe i should just buy any old one and have it rebuilt? assuming budget is not an issue what might be the better option?

i only wanna spend 12k on the car to start with because i want something fairly stock, that way i can build it up myself - not personally do everything myself obviously, but u know what i mean right? i want it to be as much my work as possible rather than buy something someone else has already done. that's fair isn't it? i don't need a 10 second car or anything though so i can't really justify buying a gtr.

but by the time you've spent $12k+ $10k+ doing up the 32 to get it reasonable, you could have bought a half decent 32GTR? Stock R32 gts-t are pretty unexciting.

Or you're looking at a $10k engine rb26 swap into the gts-t, with only moderate chance that the engine is good.

You're best bet is a gts-t already modified at around $15k.. and maybe just do a few minor things to get it the way you want. You can always sell the parts you don't want.

Slightly off topic, i'm considering buying a decent R31. However i have little to no experience in specs or models relatinf to the R31.

If anyone has ideas as what ot buy ect, looking to spend around 10k (on road)

jesus christ... read the 3rd post

4. You should buy my R31. It has lots of power (RB25DET) R32 GTSt brakes that can handle trackwork, and a full aftermarket suspension setup. $10k. No more mods needed, fully developed.

How old are you? What state do you live in? Realistically, how much can you afford to spend on a car upfront and how much per month to run it?

Questions that need to be answered before anyone can give you any real help in choosing a car.

I bought a r32 gtst, and im happy with it. Its no where near the fastest thing on the road, but its pretty quick and has done 80000km with me at the wheel and hasnt missed a beat.

And with a $12k budget, you cant afford anything else

Car $12000

Rego $500

Insurance $1500

Clutch when it lets go $700

etc etc etc.....

you should be able to find an R32 with a decent RB25DET conversion for 20K or less. they go pretty hard. if you start messing with 26's you start messing with $$$$$$$$$$$$. 25 is an easier/cheaper answer, ive just dropped a 25 in my 31 and its wild.

Or just get a modded 33 GTST for under 20k. Newer car, bit better put together inside, and they have a 25DET standard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...