Suggestions On What Is Wrong?

[psybic]

Get over it dude.

I edited the post to say *oops double post again* cost i f**ked up and posted twice.

I'm over it though, thanks for your support man. It was a tough time, big brother chick with fake titties was a struggle for the old concentration to stay on the forum.

[Hakai]

thanks for taking the time to right all that hakai, your a legend mate, ill check that out as well

Um where abouts is the fuel filter on these things?

No problem at all

I have no idea where the fuel filter is, never changed one in a skyline so it'll be a first for me too. I'll do a bit of looking around tonight and see what I can find if I get time.

Good luck with the coils/plugs.

Just a note about taping the coils though, on my coils I noticed that the brace that bolts them to the coil rail is solid and runs around the entire pack, not like in that guide to taping them, those are R33 coils which I believe are a bit different, they only have screw holes at each corner or maybe that's just his?

Mine have the band running all the way around which makes it a bit tedious to tape the top and bottom, I haven't inspected the bottom of my packs since I taped them because I am too lazy to take them out, but literally one drive after taping them the heat seems to have melted the glue on the tape and the top part has just shrunk and pulled itself off the coilpacks. Not sure if this will happen on the underside, I'll find out when I get unlazy for a few minutes lol.

Good luck mate

Ben.

[BHDave]

Yep so you have experienced it clean up over 6k?

My experience wasn't the same, they simply crapped out and stayed crapped out big time.

I have. The car would be shocking from about 3.5-4.5k and then pull to redline like you wouldn't beleive. I didn't think it was coils either, so i played with the tune and sometimes it would drive perfectly (usually only a quick fang up the street to get an af reading, followed shortly after by a quick test drive) and other times it was a bucket of crap (drive to work).

[GTAAAH]

side note, mine does that. When i just start it it seems fine accelerating but once it warms up or ive been driving it a while it starts screwin it. Taking it to ultratune tonight, will pay for machine hire for diagnosis but thats about it. Anything spark related is to dam tiring to get to

Edited June 6, 2006 by r32 gts-turbo

[paulr33]

have you done a standard ecu diag? perhaps a sensor is dead and intermittently is causing a problem, takes only a few minutes

[quiksta]

Ckeck your afm. Symptoms sound similar to what my freind was experiencing in his 32. f****kn annoying. Give it a clean with some petrol and/or test your car using someone elses afm.

[R32_Matt]

Fuel filter is on the RHS strut tower next to the inlet plenum on a 32 BTW

[TTT]

fuel filter...

between the strut tower and manifold..

same for rb25...

[GTAAAH]

thanks for the help and thx GTST for the diagram, your a legend.

Took it to a guy we know and he did an assessment for $60. Unfortunately this didnt include spark assessment but. he found fuel flow to be very low and pressure to be about a quarter of what it should be. Also my VAC was slightly low (no idea) and he thinks that when they replaced my timing belt they miss adjusted it by a gear. Also a possible MAF sensor fault.

What do you guys think? truthfulness, how much they would effect me, would they effect me in the way i described, is it still likely to be spark issues

ill try change the fuel filter (if it looks shoddy or clogged) tomorrow and see if that helps, otherwise if you guys reckon pump is a likely cause and that the guys not just being dodgey, ill probably just get a standard pump, as it should be sufficient to hold the 33 turbo im putting on soon.

thx

Edited June 8, 2006 by r32 gts-turbo

[The Dan]

a fuel filter can also have the same symptoms as a worn out coilpack. Have had that happen a couple of times. I would upgrade the pump as it is a common place to fail once they get to that age.

[GTAAAH]

ok cool thanks dude, you think the standard pump is good enough? ive been seeing recond ones for about $120 i think ( or im tripping) and the gtr ones for $250 (tripping?) and although im upgrading turbo id be tempted to stick with the standard 1

[insu]

Don't bother with getting a recond fuel pump.

Just get a new one, check out the group buys section there's usually some buys going on for bosch 040's, 044's or walbro's etc.

[GTAAAH]

Why do you suggest going with a 040 or 044? I was looking at the 040 and they go for about $230. A stock r32 one recond (or new?) is worth like $120 according to a mechanic or 2 i know and will be easily enough to run 14 psi on a 33 turbo with minor mods wouldnt it? From what i read the standard pumps are good for 300 bhp and id be getting like 220 max with those mods methinks

thx

Edited June 9, 2006 by r32 gts-turbo

[insu]

Why would you bother going with another R32 pump or a recond one, when like you said for another $100 or so you can get a pump that is easily capable of handling that power, plus you know it won't crap out straight away, plus leaves room for more power upgrades in the future?

You may very well be able to support those mods and power from an R32 unit, but wy risk it? Better to go for a bit of overkill when it comes to fueling.

Completely up to you though, just what i'd do though.

FYI on ebay they range in price from $160 to $220 for a 040

http://search.ebay.com.au/search/search.dl...tle22=bosch+040

$215: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...110033&hl=bosch

$200: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...119912&hl=bosch

$275 for a 044: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...118625&hl=bosch

$179 Walbro: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...83622&hl=walbro

Edited June 9, 2006 by insu

[GTAAAH]

ohhh thats cheaper than i thought, saw the price of $230 in one of the trader pages on this forum, thx for all the research to Ill have a look at the walbro or the 040's on ebay. Im assuming the walbros and the 040's dont need any mod'ing to fit on, ive seen some pictures they look easy enough, assuming you dont need ecu retuned to cope with it (maybe a reset) or a new fuel pressur regulator? Just cut some crap off the mounting brackets right? Alot of people seem to be having problems with the walbro's leaning out so ill avoid them and go the 040, what model number should i look at? all 040's are the same? can you get a Aftermarket mounting kit for 040's?

Edited June 9, 2006 by r32 gts-turbo

[insu]

You'll find that the problem with the walbro's seem to be that they are designed to flow their max amount at a voltage higher than that of the standard wiring loom.

If you sort that problem out, they should be good.

There isn't really that much you have to do to get them to fit, but you will need to do things like, replace the pick-up sleeve, lines from the sleeve to the pump, wiring, making the unit fit the bracket properly etc.

Alot of people seem to disregard the ecu controlled downstep in voltage on idle to reduce the amount of flow the pumps produce when idling, and just wire the pump straight in.

Check it out man, search button's you friend!: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=67683&hl=bosch

[insu]

Also if you're willing to pay a little more to not have to do as much to fit one:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=85375&hl=bosch

[GTAAAH]

hey ive already had a look at the diy on self installation and a couple of other topics on pumps, sucks that so much changing is needed i guess ill go with one of the tomei ones that doesnt require any editing

Edited June 9, 2006 by r32 gts-turbo

[GTAAAH]

just thought id update this because it might be helpful to some one some where. Mechanic had a look told me i had bad flow bad pressure, so i replaced the filter and got him to chuck a walbro in for me ($300 all up, with a crazy pump price). Car is a helluva lot faster than it has ever been, even before the misfiring, when i had it running 12 psi. It has absolutely no splutters or anything like that, even droping it into 2nd from 1st @7k rpm nothing. Really rams u into your seat accelerating in 2nd (never had it happen before) and had absolutely no flat spot or power loss all the way to 6.2k, it kept moving didnt slow up at all like lots of people say happens rb20's, due to the turboes capabilities. So yeh my cars finally working and its maddd

Edit - 2 weeks later problem is back hehe

Edited July 1, 2006 by r32 gts-turbo

[cry41t]

Really? Is the problem back?

I have had similar problems, and were initially solved by splitfire coil packs however, the flat spot is still occuring between certain revs and am in the process this week of installing a walbro pump. Ive been advised by a few mechanics that this will cure it!!

Dont tell me otherwise, hahaha