Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im looking to change the diff ratio in the s15 as im looking for abit more acceleration (too laggy).

Im considering changing to the r33 diff, but not sure of the ratio??? Can anyone advise me what the ratio is?

Also to run this in the car, do I take out the internals of the diff housing in the s15, and simply swap over with another r200 gearset (Pinion and wheel) ?

Any help or info most appreciated, im sourcing a ratio of around 4.1 or 4.3

This ratio is to be used with the 6spd box

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121099-diff-ratio-question-regarding-s15/
Share on other sites

S15 runs a r200 shortnose diff with a helical centre.

Skylines (r32/33) runs the same diff, except with a vlsd centre.

The centres have to be taken out to swap over the cw & pinion(so u can keep your hlsd :laugh:)

R33 is 4.1 and r32 is 4.3.

What ratio are u running atm? I may want to swap my 4.3 for a 3.9 if u are interested...

S15 runs a r200 shortnose diff with a helical centre.

Skylines (r32/33) runs the same diff, except with a vlsd centre.

The centres have to be taken out to swap over the cw & pinion(so u can keep your hlsd :D)

R33 is 4.1 and r32 is 4.3.

What ratio are u running atm? I may want to swap my 4.3 for a 3.9 if u are interested...

Hey buddy, yeah, i wouldnt mind swapping if you want to do that. Are you located in sydney??? Is it a hard job to do, cause i never really pulled the diff out before, hehe...

Im just running the std s15 ratio which is in manual, I believe its 3.7. I wouldnt mind trying a 4.3.... and testing that out for a while :rofl:

So basically its a straight swap, ie just take the diff out, take then open the casing up, swap the CW and pinion, put back together, and off you go?

Is it as simple as that?

From what I read, the s15 also has a sender from the diff for the speedo... how do i correct this so the speedo isnt out?

Thanks for your help though, much appreciated :rofl:

Unfortunatly I live in Adelaide. It would have to be done by a diff place (ie 4x4 or a workshop capable) to setup clearances etc.

I heard manual ratio was 3.9 and the auto was 3.7? If yours was 3.9 it would be better for me...

Yes its just a swap of the cw& pinion.

You can get the speedo re-calibrated at some places.

diff ratio for S15 manual is definitely 3.7 and 3.9 for auto

unfortunatley the length of the halfshafts in the helical S15 are unique and are a different length to that of all other R200 diffs.....go speak to a diff shop/jap import shop first but I have been lead to believe that you can't just change crown/pinion on the helical.

as long as you use a diff with ABS sensor in it your speedo and odo will continie to work (I used an ABS diff from a CA but bolted the S15 sensor on as is much newer). I have chnaged to an RB25 box on my S15 and initially had 3.7 diff...gears very long, now have 4.3 ratio and certainly revs out/accelerates much quicker, on both occasions speedo reading changed for any given gear and RPM and at present I think the calibration is either spot on or 2-3% out

(unfortunately I never wrote down speed readings/RPM with 6spd box to compare 5th gear against 4th gear of new box ie 1:1 ratio)

The 6 speed is already short ratio box, if I were you I'd look at 3.9 or at most a 4.1 final ratio

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...