Jump to content
SAU Community

G C G Ball Bearing High Flow Turbos For R33gtst $1750.


Sydneykid
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Question for SK to get an Idea for the 2L boys.

Standard Rb20 with normal breathing mods - pod, intercooler, good exhaust, EBC etc.

What rpm does it start boosting?

What boost pressure have you found to be the most efficient to make power?

At that pressure, when does it hit max boost?

I understand that you probably feild questions like this all the time but I know that you run a GCG highflow on your rb20det and am very interested to hear your very knowledgable experience on the all round performance of this engine/turbo combo for a street car and what mods/tricks get the best out of this package?

Understand if you don't want to rewrite essays but any info would be most appreciated!

Keeping it as brief as I can;

Using a GCG Ball Bearing High flowed RB25DET turbo.

We used to run 1.3 bar on the old (170,00 k's) RB20DET for 225 rwkw

In 3rd gear it would make the full 1.3 bar by 3,750 rpm

(that's on the Commander and the Datalogit, the old R32GTST standard tacho read about 10% high)

It would hold the 1.3 bar all the way to 8,250 rpm (rev limiter)

Mods were a Power FC with boost control kit, POD, heat shield, ambient air feed, Jun adj cam pulleys (inlet and exhaust), Performance Metalcraft spilt dump, standard R32GTR intercooler, R32GTR fuel pump, R32GTR injectors and a light weight OS Giken twin plate clutch

Tuned for response, in particular we spent a lot of time tuning the ignition timing between 3,000 rpm and 6,000 rpm. Plus I sacrificed a little max power for more response using the adjustable camshaft pulleys.

I have compared a number of high flowed RB20DET turbos with RB25DET turbos and I can't say as I have noticed any difference in the external sizes of the compressor or turbine covers. The R34GTT turbine cover is slightly larger of course. My understanding is that the internal dimensions of the RB20DET turbine cover are slightly smaller than the RB25DET turbine cover. But that is machined to the same size when GCG do the high flow anyway.

:D cheers :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

1. Would I have to retune the Power FC if I get this turbo?

2. Is there a difference between the rb25 turbo in the series 1 & 2 R33?

3. I have a series 2 turbo on my RB20 so it would be a straight swap right?

Suggestions follow;

1. Yep

2. Not after it's high flowed

3.Yep

:) cheers :dry:

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Gary

If you ever have anyone looking to high flow an r34 turbo (with the larger rear housing), but the turbo is still on their car and they want to do the swap on and off in one day, I have a blown one.

I'd be willing to let them have that highflowed in exchange for a working on. They'll get the same result anyways :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Gary. Did you have a dyno sheet you could put up for your R32 setup?

If I had the supporting mods with an ECU remap and a JayCar boost controller instead of the PFC and associated boost controller would I theoretically achieve similar results?

Cheers in advance

EDIT: did you have cams with the adj. cam pulleys?

Edited by ellie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Gary. Did you have a dyno sheet you could put up for your R32 setup?

If I had the supporting mods with an ECU remap and a JayCar boost controller instead of the PFC and associated boost controller would I theoretically achieve similar results?

Cheers in advance

EDIT: did you have cams with the adj. cam pulleys?

Sorry, I don't have a dyno sheet that I can post up for the R32GTST with the RB20DET in it.

There are limits to the ECU remapping, you might run into them before you get to the target power output. Every car is different, I can't be more specific than that.

Cams is an interesting story, I was given what I was told where standard R32GTR cams. I had no reason to check them. There wasn't any reason for me not to believe the guy that gave them to me as he had no motive to do otherwise. I stuck them in at the same time as I did the turbo and the Power FC install. Tuned it and away we went, used the old RB20 for couple of years. Then I stuck the original RB30DET into the R32GTST and gave the cams back to the guy that loaned them to me. It wasn't until I tried to copy the R32GTR cams into RB20 trick for someone else that I ran into problems, same as a few other guys have.

So I don't know whether it made the power on standard RB20 cams, RB20 aftermarket cams, standard RB26 cams or maybe even aftermarket RB26 cams. When I sold the original RB30, I stuck the RB20 back into the R32GTST with its original cams. It made within 8 rwkw of the same power, which I wasn't surprised at given its age, it was getting pretty tired at 180,000k's and after 3 years of racing.

Not a very conclusive answer I know.

:D cheers :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Gary. Did you have a dyno sheet you could put up for your R32 setup?

If I had the supporting mods with an ECU remap and a JayCar boost controller instead of the PFC and associated boost controller would I theoretically achieve similar results?

Cheers in advance

EDIT: did you have cams with the adj. cam pulleys?

You will find it very very difficult to get full boost (1bar or more?) on before 4k as Sk has, however 300rwhp can be achieved with standard cams and no cam gears, with these items you can bring boost on earlier (more cams..) and gain more hp obviously too! I am going to go down the cam's track abit later for some more responce but have no idea on what cams to use as i havn't look at that yet

Edited by jazza08
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey do you know if you can purchase the internals or rebuild kit from gcg and then rebuild the turbo yourself? I've pulled apart a saab turbo before and re-assembled it. wasnt really that hard

My understanding is the rotating assembly, once mounted in the core, needs to be balanced on a fairly expensive (and highly accurate considering 150,000 rpm ) piece of machinery. From there on it’s a simple bolt on job for the compressor and turbine covers which have been machined to match the compressor and turbine. So not much time (money) to be saved as their is very little DIY.

:P cheers :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well worth your money alphinestar? i noticed in your signiture youv got heaps done to your car but 261rwhp isnt a whole lot? i dont understand.

261rwhp was with my old turbo with blown seal

ill give an update on thursday when i get the retune hope i can get 300 with stock injectors

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The existing factory sub feed should already have a sum of L+R and a low pass filter, so it probably isn't necessary to take another L and R feed from the HU.  If it didn't have a factory sub output, then that would be the best option though. Does your new amp not have speaker level inputs?  that would eliminate the need for the speaker - line level converter completely.  
    • The query here, is how do you arrange all of your spares and other random items? And then, what do you do, if you think you're hitting that point where you won't need them any more?   So, but of background; I've had lots of different cars, and tinkered with lots of cars over the last 18 odd years. In addition, I have a habit of ending up with things, I'll now never need again. For example, for the R33, I've got a side mount intercooler, and a GTR front mount cooler, as well as random items like aftermarket cam gears, starter motors, power steering pumps, and even things as random as the really small fuse box, that sits right beside the battery.  So firstly, I've got a lot of stuff right there, that I'll never need again, as I'm not playing street/stock cars. So, I probably need to clear some items out, and at the same time, I hate Facebook Market place and dealing with people. So other than throwing this stuff out, how do you guys deal with it? Do you have a similar stash of parts hidden away taking up space?   So then the next part is, I have lots of stuff like aluminium pipe to make inlets from, lots and lots of electrical stuff too for making custom wiring looms, and so many random things. How do you guys organise all of your stuff? I've moved a lot, and lots of my stuff was just in random cardboard and plastic boxes, that were starting to fall apart! Lots of it was stacked on shelves in said boxes, and I've just gotten new shelving, and I'm re arranging the garage to fit some new (to me) large tools in. That means I'm presently opening boxes, being ruthless and ditching the trash (I think about 30 cables that would suit a TV/Desktop PC went in the bin alone!). However, now I've got parts laying in the middle of the garage floor while I work out how to store them on shelves. The shelves are all high, so if I lay all the parts out nicely on shelving, I lose heaps of space. But if I shove them all back in boxes, I'm back to square one!   So what mysterious and creative storage solutions have you come up with? That is other than making the garage bigger, and buying more shelving, and pushing this problem back another 5 to 10 years...   Oh, and lots of things I have, are for projects I want to do one day, or am slowly doing too... The 80HDs can make life hard sometimes... So more storage space probably isn't the best idea...   Let's add another random question too, how much space is being taken up in your workshop/garage from parts you bought years ago, and still haven't fitted? Example, I have a brand new Safari Snorkel for the LandCruiser, and a box of RedArc gauges.    Since November of 2016...  
    • So I've been working on the car a fair bit, doing a lot of little things. Preparing some projects for this winter, as I'm taking 13 weeks off very soon for parental leave. Have my second kid on the way and he's due any week now. I'll need something to do while he's sleeping. I also usually take the car off the road in about a month and a half, until sometime around the end of March.  Still making slight adjustments to my tune, as the cold weather settles in. I've also had to start dropping boost and tire pressure as the weather gets cooler. It's getting very swirly at highway speeds. I drop to 20psi at 20C and 18psi spring pressure at 10C IAT's. I'm currently on 255 Falcon RT660's, but may look into running 275's next summer. They will fit, but barely. Might have to raise the rear a tad.  I'll start redoing my exhaust Monday, as I have the week off. I currently have an oval center muffler and cannon rear muffler. I've been told more then once from people behind me that my rear bumper is going to catch on fire one day. Seems I blow 5-10 second flames after doing a pull. No clue if that's the WMI, as I've never been able to do that before with other cars. I wanted to angle my tip down a tad so flames are pointed down and away from bumper. I also wanted to take the opportunity to reconfigure my exhaust line. I'm going to move my oval muffler to the rear with a pie cut angled tip and put in a new smaller round muffler in the center. I've rocked cannon mufflers on this car for the last few years and want to transition back the oval muffler look. I've also been looking for a stainless project to try out the new solar flux I bought. I'll post pictures on Monday, should be able to wrap that up in a day.  I'm also picking up another rear subframe this week. I wanted a second so that I could modify one with a gk tech anti squat reduction kit during the winter, and still be able to keep the car a roller so I can back it out of the garage if needed. I will also be caging it this winter. More on that later. Lastly, Speedtek still hasn't given me diddly squat. Every week for the last 4 weeks, they have been saying next week. They told me Friday to expect a shipping label that day to ship my two bad sets of ring and pinions back and nothing. There's definitely been more contact since I started destroying their company any chance I get on Facebook, but it's still just words without action.   
    • Have you done a pressure test on your intake/piping? Cleaned your IACV and Cold start valve?
    • Bit of a dump of ones I saw on my trip. I also have a heap from daikoko but that’s technically not  on the street 
×
×
  • Create New...