Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellow drifters, im thinking about getting into the drift scene, not super serious, but as a bit of fun and something to do, if i get anywhere, cool, if i dont, cool.

im buying a rb20det 32.

its auto.

if i wanted to make it drift ready, as i understand, i would need:

manual conversion

bigger turbo

fmic

better ecu

nice tune

helmet

tires

is there something i am missing?

im not aiming for a 32 with big power, i just want to be able to use it for drift and road use.

please tell me if im very wrong, and roughly what parts you think id need, coz im trying to assess if its financially viable :D

thanks alot guys, steve :)

Edited by KLowN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121277-warning-noob-drift-questions-inside/
Share on other sites

Might I ask why you are buying an auto if you are going to turn it into a drift car?

I know there is a thread about auto -> manual, but wouldn't it be easier to start with one instead?

Anyway, good luck with it all... I'm trying to get into drift too... one day I'll even attend an event (vicdrift). Its gonna be interesting... no mods at all (not even an lsd)...

From my limited knowledge, I'd suggest that suspension (not counting the auto -> manual) might need a bit of priority... and I don't just mean spring rates.

And if you need a helmet, the regs will probably stipulate full body cotton(or other natural fibre) as well.

Good luck.

EDIT: this thread is new, and will be useful... the search button will be userful as well... and me doing research BEFORE posting would be cool too.

Seriously though, search.

Edited by ebola

hey thanx ebola, the reason im buying the auto is basically because it has excellent kms on the engine and its a reasonable price. and i can get the conversion done cheap, so im basically gettin a manual gtst for under 10k with a few mods. which, in my opinion, in perth is very good.

as for the suspension, yes coilovers seem to be a must (thanx andy) and the lsd too.

so far its not looking too promising for funds i have :D

but ill keep saving! and you never know!

cheers guys, steve :D

I would say in order you would want.

1. 1.5 or preferable 2 way LSD (Check if road legal in your state)

2. Manual Transmittion (It is possible to drift an auto, but much harder)

3. Nice stiff coil over suspension, 7kg/mm minimum springs and preferable adjustable shocks.

4. Engine maintanence, oil, fluids, filters and check brakes (including handbrake shoes) BEFORE every trip to the track.

Cheers,

Dan. :)

Do as many go fast bits diy as you possibly can.like take out air con,leave air con electric fan there and run a switch to turn it on and off.

1st:

$22 bleed valve

2 way LSD.2nd hand

Exhaust

cold air intake absolutely no hot air to enter the pod.(run ducts)

steering wheel 2nd hand

strip interior

coil overs,strutbraces,brake master cylinder brace.

Run cooling ducts to anything that you think should be cooled.

2nd:

oil cooler

decent sized intercooler kit.(just jap or equivilent)

fuel pump or fpr

fixed race bucket seat 2nd hand

swaybars.

Then turbo,radiator ra ra ra!!!!

Change fluids of the thrashed car regularly.mmmm DRIFT!!

  • 2 months later...
just curious to know why the mention of 1.5 way / 2 way LSD's

Skyline r32's have already got a high viscousity LSD (or something) in em.. So wats the difference between the standard LSD and the 1.5/2 way ones mentioned above?

The viscous has a viscous fluid in it which locks/unlocks drive to each wheel.

1.5 and 2way have mechanical parts to do it... So at certain tensions it will lock/unlock quite noticably and effectively, compared to a lazier viscous lsd.

howstuffworks has the flash animations I think :)

hmm, i think your explanation was informing enough.. Cant understand anything on that site, howstuffworks.. So the 1.5 way and 2 way ones will limit singular wheel slippage to a more extreme degree than the viscous dif will right.. Is it possible to put courser fluid into a viscous dif setup (i dont wana do anything like this, my lsd works fine for what i need it for, 2 lines) just curious

hmm, i think your explanation was informing enough.. Cant understand anything on that site, howstuffworks.. So the 1.5 way and 2 way ones will limit singular wheel slippage to a more extreme degree than the viscous dif will right.. Is it possible to put courser fluid into a viscous dif setup (i dont wana do anything like this, my lsd works fine for what i need it for, 2 lines) just curious

A stock viscous diff is nice and soft for street use. Used for drifting or track work they self destruct. A 2 or 1.5 way is much more durable and can be made to be much more aggressive to drive like a locked diff, but still have a diff action. They give you better drive out of corners and a better controled slide.

Looking at your "to do list" and your currrent plans i would be looking at something that has already had money spent on it like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...A%3AIT&rd=1

if your only beginning then you dont want to spend too much money on a car for drift as its unlikey you will ever get your money back!!!

Good luck with it though cobber and look forward to seeing you out on the track :blink:

GMB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh and my rear arms may need some attention too.    
    • Bushings are almost done. Check the date stamp 馃槀 these are likely the original bushings with 27 years and 243ks on them.     Was too dark to get a pic of the worst one.
    • Porous blocks are a known issue on something like a Porsche M96, it's not really something I've ever heard of on an RB26. It's possible what people thought was a "porous block" was really a cracked block that they just didn't spot the crack on.
    • This is a controversial subject really, the whole power vs fun thing I mean And this is the main reason I got back into a MX5 Of the last few notable daily cars I've owned whilst I have frequented SAU R33 GTS-t: fun, but because I'm a idiot I modified well past a reliable fun car and ended up hating it, although that was my fault because I tried to have a daily cruiser and race car all in one, the family called it the sometimes car, because sometimes it was working, sometimes it was broken, gladly sold it NB MX5: brilliant car, thrashed the Bejebus out of it, but, again, was stupid and deleted the air con, power steering and stripped the interior out, whilst still fun, and reliable, and super cheap on consumables, it was not a fun place to be going on long cruises, I did love it, but basically every family member hated going anywhere in it, sadly sold it 2015 WRX STI: soulless thing that looked like your average Kia sedan and had that horrible boxer engine with glass ringlands, the family did like it though, that thing was one of my stupidest purchases and I still regret it 2017 Toyota 86: 馃槳 if I didn't crash it, I would probably still have it, it was a fun little thing, even with that horrible boxer engine, the family did like it, the only reason I didn't get another 86, or, BRZ was the boxer engine, I should have learnt after owning the STI, but I'm a idiot VX SS: great cruiser, fits the whole family, and was fast as.....in a straight line, but a big fat thing, so no enjoyment throwing it around corners, the family was unimpressed with the whole boganness of if, but they did admit it was a comfy place to sit on long cruises As for the NC, I feel it is perfect for what I want, or need out of of a car, whether I'm cruising the Hwy, back roads, twisties or peak hour traffic, the Mrs doesn't mind driving it either, or cruising in it as well, although she does bump her head of the roof nearly every time she gets in, which is farking hilarious, and the kids love taking it for a thrash as well So basically, I've had constantly more fun, and way less headache and heartache, both on the track and on the street, in low powered cars,  go figure.....LOL One thing though, the Mrs has stated that the cams have made the exhaust sound much louder, which they have, but it doesn't bother me, in fact, I actually like it, but, to negate any future comments from the Minister for War and Finances I may look at some changes to the rear muffler set-up to drop the volume down a tad to appease her when we are out and about in it
    • You will need to extend the turbo inlet pipe somehow, which could/might be done with silicone/rubber pipe, but might need steelwork, depending on your intake. And you will need to change the pipework on the outlet in teh same way, but this is more likely to need steelwork.
  • Create New...