Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Upgrade


Recommended Posts

Ive just bought a 700hp rated turbo for my r33. its a garrett 3582R or sumthing along those lines. it isnt a 3540 i know that for sure. But i need to replace the factory ECU before i put it in. What one would be suitable for my RB25 ?? At this stage, all it will have is the bigger turbo, a front mount, and what ever ECU i choose. I will run it at about 16pound to be safe. Ive been told to buy a wolf 3D plug in for $1600. Any other suggestions ????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It all depends on what you plan to with the car in the future...thats a fairly large turbo...what other mods have you got to support it ie, injectors, fuel pump etc... Power fc is probably the best if your going to get your best performance with mods however if your just going to have a couple of light mods fmic bov zoorst etc then maybe get a piggyback..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its a 97 m spec strait off the ship from jap, ive put a 3" zorst (from cat back i think), boost control, trust BOV, HKS air pod.. at the moment all i want is more power and boost, in future ill go manifold, external wastegate, injectors, fuel pump, but right now all i want is to put my turbo on with a good computer to run it. and ill put a front mount on aswell. i want a hand controller aswell.. do u recon apexi power fc will do the trick and back up later down the track when i put the other mods on ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes power fc is your best bet mate as it is very tunable and can be tuned again at a later date when you plan to do more upgrades. If you like i can get you a price on one? As for tuning costs it all depends on where you go!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeahhh champ that'd be good.. get a price on how much it'l be fitted aswell, if your supplier fits it aswell..

im on the sunshine coast.. but can travel if the price is worth it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

why you did you choose 16psi? what power do you want to make?

there are a lot of modifications you will need to effectively use that turbocharger. why fit a 700hp turbo if you only want 350hp?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im not very experienced with turbo cars, this is my 1st import. i was told it was a good turbo. how much boost could i run safely with that turbo without doing the internals or putting a larger fuel pump and injectors in?? I want to put those extra mods on later down the track when i save up a little more. Will it be alot quicker than a stocko skyline if i put the turbo, power fc, and a front mount on or wont it make much difference???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a well setup skyline on the stock turbo would blow away your car with a pfc that turbo and an intercooler

average power makes a car fast

not a big turbo. its a good turbo? based on what? what do you want out of the turbo? do you want lag? do you want quick response? do you want max power? do you want a good street car? do you want to win dyno comps and nothing else?

what do you want to do with the car? what do you expect?

only then can someone say its a good or bad turbocharger or recommend one that is suitable. also a power goal will give you the answer you need

Link to comment
Share on other sites

700hp turbo running 16psi/pounds is alot of power my guess is you'll be making power around 230rwkw-300rwkw.

BUT your biggest problems is you don't have supporting mods to run that kind of power with your current setup.

My guess guys correct me if i'm wrong

Stock Fuel Pump (good for 200rwkw?)

Stock Injectors (good for 220rwkw?)

if i were in your shoes get the fuel pump and injectors done or else your engine will go BOOM! running 16psi on a 700hp turbo on stock fuel pump and injectors NOT a good idea.

OR if your really tight for funds get the front mount on, get the turbo on and RUN the lowest possible boost setting in the meantime until you can afford a fuel pump/injectors/metal head gasket. aim to tune the car for around the 200rwkw mark.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes this is what i've explained to Dane. He wont be able to effectively use the turbo with out supporting mods however once there in it will be an animal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well i was helping Dane with the question he asked, as he already has the turbo. Either way Power Fc is great computer full stop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

correct the powerfc is a great computer but with stock injectors and stock pump it wont be a safe tune. youll need;

larger injectors

larger airflow meter

larger fuel pump

heavy duty clutch

some good tyres

cold air intake

suitable manifold (and gate if external)

suitable dump pipe

suitable 3" turbo back exhaust at the least (with hiflow cat)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My guess guys correct me if i'm wrong

Stock Fuel Pump (good for 200rwkw?)

Stock Injectors (good for 220rwkw?)

ive got stock injectors and fuel pump, atm im on 232rwkw with aftermarket turbo.. he would be able to get around 240-250rwkw before maxing out the fuel pump, injectors can go a bit more maybe 260rwkw..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

700hp turbo running 16psi/pounds is alot of power my guess is you'll be making power around 230rwkw-300rwkw.

BUT your biggest problems is you don't have supporting mods to run that kind of power with your current setup.

My guess guys correct me if i'm wrong

Stock Fuel Pump (good for 200rwkw?)

Stock Injectors (good for 220rwkw?)

if i were in your shoes get the fuel pump and injectors done or else your engine will go BOOM! running 16psi on a 700hp turbo on stock fuel pump and injectors NOT a good idea.

OR if your really tight for funds get the front mount on, get the turbo on and RUN the lowest possible boost setting in the meantime until you can afford a fuel pump/injectors/metal head gasket. aim to tune the car for around the 200rwkw mark.

stock inj are good for 230-240

stock AFM maxes at near 210

Cams at 235

16psi boost on that turbo with computer, cams, AFM and inj upgrade will get you 320rwkw.

Without upgrading any of these things will cause the Boom you speak of. This should be interesting to watch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

whilst its all good and fun to have 320rwkw on

ecu

cams

afm

injectors

what about the important stuff that makes it driveable?

whats the point of all that power will crappy tyres, stock suspension, stock clutch and other various components that help make the turbo upgrade worthwhile. a lot of people these days are into the habit of just grabbing any old cheap ebay turbo or garrett reseller $xyz$ and then bolting it and fitting mods (only bare essentials)

to me, i dont see the point, it would suck and be frustrating

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah most people that have heard it said it was fine but it's always had me slightly worried. Oil pressure I can't remember off the top of my head but it has plenty, I run 10w60 You're probably right mate, best get ordering some shims! Guessing Nissan is the best place for them?
    • Just wanna preface this and point out I'm a mechanical fitter by trade but have had very little rebuild/machining experience, but I am keen to learn, hence this project. Bit of a write up here so bear with me, just want to make sure I do this right  I've got an rb30e currently pulled down. Planning on putting a 25 head on it and running it in my s14.  Not chasing huge power so I'm just going to try get away with factory bottom end for now.  Started measuring the crank the other day, realised my budget daytona micrometer set wasn't up to the task (surprise, I know). They only measure to 0.01mm but the Nissan specs are to 0.001mm. Anyway, I started measuring anyway and came away with the mains being inline with the oem spec, as well as the big ends, except for no. 5. I consistently got a measurement of a hair over 49.96mm, where all the others were pretty spot on 49.97mm. The lower spec for grade no.1 is 49.961mm. I'm getting access to some better gear my next days off to double check everything, but in the case that the big end is right on that bottom spec, is it pretty much just a case of straight to the machine shop for machining and oversized bearings? I understand I need to measure the tunnel as well to work out my oil clearance, but it's the different grade bearings in the manual that are confusing me. What is generally the process when one journal would still technically be in spec, but in a different grade?  Thanks for coming to my Ted talk
    • You need to visit Ipswich. Plenty of clapped out R32 and R33s running around here as daily drivers. And when I say clapped out, they're how you'd look at a VN, when it's the year 2010...
    • So I checked this out in the weekend.. and look at this. I remember watching the videos. Finally got to see it in person! BRB. Tissues. Got tonnes of other pics and videos too.      IMG_0171.mov IMG_0113.mov
    • For anyone who might be put off by the slightly wacky wheel offset shown on the box photo above, the production models are not like that. Here's some more pics of the actual product (as well as the interior)
×
×
  • Create New...