Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all i just wanted to know how much is involved ie is there any hard parts that need to be addressed when doing a manual conversion in a 32. i have emailed quite a few wrecking places all over aus and the best (kit) comes from D1 garage for 1000 including everything. is there cheaper options?

if this has allready been done to death please point me in the right direction as i couldnt find anything.

secondly what is a good cheapish clutch to use if a bit of spirited driveing is needed? only needs to handle mild power

and thirdly do the auto 32s come with an open or viscus diff? i want to get a 2 way later but for now i would like to know. also if it does have an open wheeler could shagged viscuss be cheaply shimed up and used for the time being or is that just a waste of time? i just read a thread on this but no one realy had any total prices.

thanks for any input or just pointing me in the right direction.

damien

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121527-auto-to-manual-gearbox-and-diff/
Share on other sites

only telling you what other people have told me coz i asked the same thing yesterday.

youll need:

manual tailshaft

pedals (brake, clutch)

clutch line

clutch slave cylinder

clutch master cylinder

manual flywheel and bolts (different sized bolts)

rb20 gearbox

tunnel rubber boot

inside plastic surround and gearboot

clutch + clutch pressure plate

clutch trust bearing

ive heard that the auto ecu is useable but changes the gear ratios, not sure how true it is tho

dont bother with a stock rb20 clutch either.

thats all the info i got, big up to predator on these forums who gave me the info :)

gl with it all, steve :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...