Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok time to clear out some of the parts in my shed due to moving house.

KKK K27 turbo, 600-odd hp turbo, t3 flanged ext gated ~1.00 rear housing. 76mm 40T compressor and 76mm turbine. Needs new seals as the exhaust side is leaking oil. (approx $600 for full rebuild) good for a rotor or rb30, was alittle big for my rb20 spooled at 5K. still made 220rwkw on 10psi though.

$300

Set of RB20DET R32 injectors - Sold

Set of RB20DET Nics HR31 Injectors - $40

RB20/25 Exhaust manifold - $40

HR31 HICAS Lock bars, replaces your rams with rose jointed bars. - Sold

HKS F-Con V Pro Version 2.1 for RB25DET, was tuned to run an RB24DET with twin injectors, K27 turbo, big front mount, etc. made 220rwkw on 10psi. - $300

Repco thermo fans

16" - $60

14" - $50

12" - $40

HR31 Headlights (not projector type) - $60

:P

Karl

Edited by kwazza11
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121717-garage-clearout/
Share on other sites

hey will you send interstate to NSW the following items?

Repco thermo fans

16" - $60

HR31 Radiator - $30 (does this suit all r31 series RB20DET Motors ? )

what price will you do including postage ?

Cheers

Matt

Please send PM as i dont always look over for sale items

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121717-garage-clearout/#findComment-2248758
Share on other sites

this F-Con won't suit an RB20DET and Unless your mechanic is BD4's or Croydon's theres no point in asking as he wont be able to tune this ECU.

as for the O2 sensor, its as old as the motor which was a '91 rb20det. its in excellent condition.

PM me if your still interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121717-garage-clearout/#findComment-2262994
Share on other sites

Selling it due to being in adelaide and i changed the turbo setup so needed a remap, the only option was to buy another ecu or get it transported to sydney for a tune (yea right)!

email BD4's and ask them if they can rewire it to suit, they may even sell a loom for it if your lucky, i've done exactly the same thing with a power fc (used an rb25det fc with an rb20 loom) but it requires a few wires swapped around.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121717-garage-clearout/#findComment-2263360
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just some information, the F-CON just requires a new harness... BD4s will be able to supply one, and you are correct in saying it may or may not need some extra wires / less wires :thanks:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121717-garage-clearout/#findComment-2282602
Share on other sites

interested in finding out more about the hicas lock bars?

Was under the impression lock bars don't work on the HR31 system but want to get rid of my Hicas, so if it works...pm me

PM sent.

FYI everyone else, heres a high res pic of them installed on my coupe. :rofl:

post-1089-1151219307.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121717-garage-clearout/#findComment-2283365
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
    • Just be warned that that turbo will not be a direct re-fit to the car. The exhaust housing is, of course, in the same place. It has to be - it's bolted to the exhaust manifold. So the dump will fit up. But the centre housing is not as long, so the comp housing will move backwards. This will affect both the turbo inlet and the outlet. There is fab work that needs to be done. Yes. it has one, it should have one. Paper gasket.
×
×
  • Create New...