Jump to content
SAU Community

Immobiliser Problems

michadoo

By michadoo,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

michadoo Collaborator

michadoo

Posted
Posted

Hey,

im having some serious issues with my alarm/immobiliser.

I have a mongoose m80 series

Yesterday, i went down to shops and when i got back to the car i couldnt deactivate the immobiliser with the remote. I tried switching it off at the key switch under the bonnet... still didnt work. After about an hour it decided to work..wether it be a few loose wires i jiggled around under the steering wheel where the alarm box in the car is fitted im not sure. Either way the car started. I needed to go out again this morning and checked the immobiliser was still switched off..and it was. Car started no problem. Go to shops just had to get some milk so i set the timer for about 8 minutes...which would have given me enough time to get back to the car had the immobiliser decided to reactivate itself after the ignition turns off. Sure enough there was a f*k around in the shop and when i got back to the car it was turned off and I couldnt get it started.. the immobiliser had kicked in (dispite the fact i had turned it off with the key) and i couldnt get it off.

I dont have the card that came with the immobiliser with the over write code as my ex had it installed and doesnt know where he has put it.

I ended up getting car towed (lucky my next door neighbour is a tow truck driver) but i need to get it up to newcastle next weekend to have it re-programmed. odviously i cant start the car but hey...at least i know my immobiliser works :P

Just wondering if anyone is familiar with this type of immobiliser and if you know how to manually by-pass it ie with the wires and such.

if anyone can help it would be muchly appreciated!!!

Thanks!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121828-immobiliser-problems/
Share on other sites
frx026 Proficient

frx026

Posted
Posted
Just wondering if anyone is familiar with this type of immobiliser and if you know how to manually by-pass it ie with the wires and such.

Mate,

Even if there was a way to bypass with wiring etc your alarm/ immobiliser, do you think that writing it in a public forum like this would be a good idea?

It would effectively mean that everyone with that type of system would have it rendered useless as any old car thief could read the how to instructions for a bypass.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Ball bearing turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTST Axles

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • jdniss
      Forced Performance Hta Turbos

      By jdniss · Posted

      Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • thozza
      Intro/R33 owner

      By thozza · Posted

      Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Lithium
      Forced Performance Hta Turbos

      By Lithium · Posted

      Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
×
×
  • Create New...