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Car Suddenly Cut Out While Driving And Now Wont Start

Hill Billy

By Hill Billy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Hill Billy Enthusiast

Hill Billy

Posted
Posted

I finally got my car back on the road after 3 weeks (after waiting for my new clutch to arrive, then trying to source a second hand flywheel, waiting for that to get machined then get put back together)

Basically I got it back on Friday and everything was fine. Ive driven it real gently to bed the clutch in.

The next day as I drive up my driveway the car cuts out and then refuses to start.

Im not sure if the slight bump of going up the kerb has made something electrical lose contact?

I know the workshop would have disconnected the battery when they did the work on the clutch. It turns over ok, so I dont think its the battery. I have tried jump starting it and it made no difference.

Have checked all fuses under the dash, under the hood and in the boot.

The alarm/immobilizer seems to be working as normal.

Disconnected the fuel hose and turned it over and plenty of fuel is flowing.

Have disconnected and reconnected the battery.

Using standard ECU with SAFCII

1995 R33 GTSt

Also, if it makes any difference, it appears the clock reset back to 12:00 after the car cut out.

Any other ideas?

cheers

Nathan

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

on ACC on the SAFC check out ETC, SENSOR and do they all have values?

it could the airflow meter tap in has come loose or disconnected which will mean the car will instantly stall as there is no airflow meter signal

you can also try stock ecu diag

Hill Billy Enthusiast

Hill Billy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
on ACC on the SAFC check out ETC, SENSOR and do they all have values?

it could the airflow meter tap in has come loose or disconnected which will mean the car will instantly stall as there is no airflow meter signal

you can also try stock ecu diag

The Sensor value on the SAFC show:

In-1: 0.160V

In-2: 0.010V

Thrt: 0.320V

Knk: 00000

AFM plus is connected properly

I tried to do a ecu diag, but cant seem to find the screw to turn, or the LEDs? Theres only one hole to poke a screwdriver and all I can see is IC further inside, ie nothing to turn.

Unless I have some wierd ecu? :wave:

post-14417-1150019705.jpg

post-14417-1150019731.jpg

kjb_r33 Experienced

kjb_r33

Posted
Posted
screw and leds is 1986 style

the newer ones i dont think have screw and leds

you need diag cable

You just need to bridge two terminals on the diagnostic link and it will flash the codes on the dash.

Hill Billy Enthusiast

Hill Billy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You just need to bridge two terminals on the diagnostic link and it will flash the codes on the dash.

Anyone know where the diagnostic port is on a series 1.5 R33?

One post said it should be near the fuse panel.

It tried this, and behind the kick panel and even removed the lower part of the dash board but still cant seem to see it :)

Is it clearly obvious in the pic?

post-14417-1150026398.jpg

Suspense Proficient

Suspense

Posted
Posted
Anyone know where the diagnostic port is on a series 1.5 R33?

One post said it should be near the fuse panel.

It tried this, and behind the kick panel and even removed the lower part of the dash board but still cant seem to see it :)

Is it clearly obvious in the pic?

The engine warning light will flash on the warnign panel

Hakai Enthusiast

Hakai

Posted
Posted
I finally got my car back on the road after 3 weeks (after waiting for my new clutch to arrive, then trying to source a second hand flywheel, waiting for that to get machined then get put back together)

Basically I got it back on Friday and everything was fine. Ive driven it real gently to bed the clutch in.

The next day as I drive up my driveway the car cuts out and then refuses to start.

Im not sure if the slight bump of going up the kerb has made something electrical lose contact?

I know the workshop would have disconnected the battery when they did the work on the clutch. It turns over ok, so I dont think its the battery. I have tried jump starting it and it made no difference.

Have checked all fuses under the dash, under the hood and in the boot.

The alarm/immobilizer seems to be working as normal.

Disconnected the fuel hose and turned it over and plenty of fuel is flowing.

Have disconnected and reconnected the battery.

Using standard ECU with SAFCII

1995 R33 GTSt

Also, if it makes any difference, it appears the clock reset back to 12:00 after the car cut out.

Any other ideas?

cheers

Nathan

Had the identical thing happen to me in my old VL (RB30E engine) while I was driving along the Gold Coast Hway on the Gold Coast (Duh!).

It was my CAS (Crank Angle Sensor). The car would turn over fine, everything worked, it just wouldn't start. Check your CAS, it might just be that :D

Hope that helps mate. Good luck.

Ben.

217/r33 Community Regular

217/r33

Posted
Posted (edited)
Had the identical thing happen to me in my old VL (RB30E engine) while I was driving along the Gold Coast Hway on the Gold Coast (Duh!).

It was my CAS (Crank Angle Sensor). The car would turn over fine, everything worked, it just wouldn't start. Check your CAS, it might just be that :rofl:

Hope that helps mate. Good luck.

Ben.

Hill Billy

Run ECU diagnostic and this will tell you if its your crank angle sensor... ( CODE #11 )

Now how to do it. ( HAVE ATTACHED A FEW PICS )

Find that gray plug near the fuse box. I have selected the two wires on picture below you need to short out FOR TWO SECONDS WHILE IGNITION IS ON (car not runing) With a paper clip or a wire.

*FIND PLUG

*TURN ON IGNITION

*SHORT OUT THE WIRES FOR APROX 2 SECONDS ( BLUE & BROWN, right next to each other, left corner )

*WATCH ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH

This will set the ECU in diagnostic mode and run a 55 sensor read out. Codes can be found here on the forum

IF the light flashs 5 times SLOW and 5 times FAST then thats a big OK 55 read out.

Hope that helps... :D

Cheers,

Alex.

Edited by 217/r33
Hill Billy Enthusiast

Hill Billy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the instructions Alex.

Yes it was the CAS.

It just wasnt connected properly. I probably didnt let it click in when I was setting the timing on my cam gear about 6 months ago.

i cant believe it took that long for the connector to come loose.

At least it was free to fix

thanks guys :devil:

217/r33 Community Regular

217/r33

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the instructions Alex.

Yes it was the CAS.

It just wasnt connected properly. I probably didnt let it click in when I was setting the timing on my cam gear about 6 months ago.

i cant believe it took that long for the connector to come loose.

At least it was free to fix

thanks guys :devil:

No worries mate good to hear your problem was an easy fix. :)

:D

Alex.

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