Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now for some of you this may seem like a pretty easy question, but I would honestly like to know..

If I was serious about the performance of my R33 GTS25t, then would I stick with my RB25DET, or would it be better to step up to a DETT with a R34 NEO head?

If so what advantages will I see behind doing this?

Will it increase power? or what will it do?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121878-can-anyone-offer-some-advice/
Share on other sites

I havn't been into this long myself im no expert but Ive asked some questions kinda the same so here goes:-

mostly depends on your budget and what kind of power your want to end up with, see with a GTST unlike GTR your rear wheel drive and when you start heading over 300kw at the rear wheels your gonna start having traction issues and problems keeping the car on the road and you'll go through alot of tyres unless you upgrade suspension and chuck on some real wide tyres like 9/9.5/10 inch wide wheels,anyway besides that theres a few engine options here-

Go with a few light mods like front mount intercooler,aftermarket ECU like Apexi Power FC,Aftermarket Injectors,High flow your stock turbo,boost controller,3 inch split front dump pipe and high flow cat and 3 inch cat back exhaust-ive probably forgot something important but this should/could get you to maybe 220-250kw? and your probably looking at for this after paying the labour and tuning about $4500-$5000

or you want more power-

Get your Rb25DET rebuilt with heavy duty internals on top of most of what was said above and add a larger aftermarket turbo like a HKS30-- and aftermarket cams etc wider exhaust like 3.5 inch and should/could get you to 300/350kw and cost about$10000-up plus the cost of wider wheels and suspension bigger brakes etc...

or more power?!

You could drop in an Rb26DEtt from a GTR and do all the equivelent to that theres even kits to stroke them to 2.8 litre and put on two bigger aftermarket turbos or replace the two with one HUGE arse turbo but to drop a rb26dett in a gtst you need a new loom and sump plus conversion plate to change from all wheel to rear wheel drive and Im not even going to hazard a guess at what that'd cost

But what most GTST guys who are serious about getting the most outa these cars and even some GTR owners are doing are building or getting built for them hybrid engines-RB25DET/RB30DET or RB26DETT/RB30DET thats the head off a skyline and the bottom end from a VL calais or older skyline bolted together with heavy duty internals and big turbos and from what Im told these 3 litre engines are getting unbeleivable kilowat and torque but one of these engines will end up costing about $20000, theres a guy on here selling one rated at 1200hp plus nitrous kit etc... for $12000 if your interested

anyway I hope Ive helped and not just confused you further, like I said Im no expert so dont take me word for word Im just going on what Ive learnt from this forum -good luck >_<

Finally some information that I can use.. yes that is what i was after, and no it didnt confuse me...

So your saying that with my budget, I should stick with a RB25DET and just do the basic bolt on's.. Turbo, intercooler, and ECU, Exhaust.. and that should bring me close to me target of 250rwKw..

Labour doesnt mean much to me, cos i can do it all my self, but the Tuning i need someone to look at, so if anyone is in Adelaide and knows of someone in the field of Turbo Tuning that is any good. let me know.

PS where is the best place to get Skyline Mods from? is there anywhere in Adelaide? or worth branching out to NSW or Vic?

Have a look in the SA section of the forums - plenty of answers there.

Or use the search function >_<

But in regards to your first post, 25DETT - no point!

by thetime you t/t your 25 - may was well have bought a 26DETT and put it in :)

PS where is the best place to get Skyline Mods from? is there anywhere in Adelaide? or worth branching out to NSW or Vic?

Im in melbourne so I can't help with shop front retailers and workshops but I but most of my new parts through buisness traders on this forum or Ive found www.nengun.com (theres usually a link at the top of the forum) to be the cheapest and theyve got a huge range, If your going to get your stock turbo high flowed, thats having the internals replaced with garret parts and bringing it up to a 400hp turbo and keeping about the same spool time then rip it off and send it to CGC in NSW theyll do it for under 2g and usaually takes em bout 2-3days

at this point i am unsure of my budget, i am still searching for a R33 GTS25t. My mate is heading over to Jap in a couple of weeks and i will know then how much i will have to spend. But i am hoping to get an R33 GTS25t to around 250 kw's for upto $25,000

at this point i am unsure of my budget, i am still searching for a R33 GTS25t. My mate is heading over to Jap in a couple of weeks and i will know then how much i will have to spend. But i am hoping to get an R33 GTS25t to around 250 kw's for upto $25,000

25,000 though for 250rwkw...

hardly

you need a max of around 10k depending on what you have already etc

25,000 though for 250rwkw...

hardly

you need a max of around 10k depending on what you have already etc

So your saying I need about 10,000 to be able to achieve 250 rwKw?

Cos that is do able. Just needed to know a rough idea. Still not sure what way i wanna go,

Anyone know the advantages behind RB30 bottom end and a RB25DET head? and no one has told me if a NEO head is worth the trouble?

Including the cost of the vehicle perhaps?

Yeah that is what I thought too, but i still have very little idea of the cost of line parts and mods.

But I think enough people have told me that it is possible to do with that kinda money, but how much does a low k'd series 2 or 3 R33 cost? looking for a rough price. R33 GTS-25t Series 2 or 3 pref under 80,000k

Anyone know the advantages behind RB30 bottom end and a RB25DET head? and no one has told me if a NEO head is worth the trouble?

If your gonna go rb30 better of with the rb26 head, havn't heard of any advantages with a neo head I dont think theres alot of difference-as for more rb30 info theres a f***in HUGE thread just go the search button and put in rb30 conversion and read read read!

Edited by BOVed

but how much does a low k'd series 2 or 3 R33 cost? looking for a rough price. R33 GTS-25t Series 2 or 3 pref under 80,000k

local or import? mods or stock? black, white, burgundy or silver? :P lol! just kidding

www.allblitz.com.au I think thats it? check them out and Im sure theres more than a few importers on this forum

but take my advice take your time man, I just WANTED!!!! a line bad and rushed into it and bought like the second one I looked at and had a few problems allready had the car just over 7 months!

if I could go back I think Id probably try and find one that looked good with a f***ed engine and buy the rb26/30 thats being sold and dump that in, instant beast!

Edited by BOVed
but how much does a low k'd series 2 or 3 R33 cost? looking for a rough price. R33 GTS-25t Series 2 or 3 pref under 80,000k

local or import?

Import or local i dont care.

mods or stock?

Pref stock.

black, white, burgundy or silver?

Colour dont matter.

www.allblitz.com.au I think thats it? check them out and Im sure theres more than a few importers on this forum

but take my advice take your time man, I just WANTED!!!! a line bad and rushed into it and bought like the second one I looked at and had a few problems allready had the car just over 7 months!

Yeah I am trying to get as uch info as i can on what i want now, cos i will be finished my other car just before x mas, so i will be looking around then. but till then, i will prolly drive you all mad with stuid questions, till i know all the ins and outs of what i want.

if I could go back I think Id probably try and find one that looked good with a f***ed engine and buy the rb26/30 thats being sold and dump that in, instant beast!

Yep I am thinking the same too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...