Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello again all!

In about 3 weeks I'm going to lose my licence for 6 months (I was on a good behaviour licence, and the defected my exhast and I lost the one point :dry: )

Anyway,

So I have 6 months to slowly do something to my car. Can I have suggestions as to what to do to the engine, like Id like to fully rebuild it slowly and as money prohibits, so what sorta things should I be doing whilst its apart so squize a few more ponnies out of her.

Exhaust is already done (Which I bottomed out, and flattened my nice shiney tip), timing is great, Injectors are WAY too much!.

Ideas on what other peopel have done, cost's, where to buy stuff like that would be great! Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

swap it for a rb25de. there is really no point in building a rb20de up. you will get such small gains for the heap of money you will put into it. it will cost the same to do the swap as it will to modify a rb20de and you will have more power and more torque

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah but NOS isnt legal for the street... I would swap it out for a rb25de or even a rb20det...sooooooo cheap these days :D

But the NOS kit itself isn't illegal is it? Your just not allowed to have a bottle hooked up unless your at a track or somewhere like that. I think that's how it is in WA anyway.

RoD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats correct. Nitrous can be installed in your car, as long as the nitrous bottle is not hooked up to the end of it... everything is a risk though these days. Lowering a car too low is illigal, so is getting wheels 2" bigger, and so are loud exhausts to name a few. As long as you dont act stupid your very unlucky to get caught. But in the end its your choice, best bang for buck mod and i would definetly reccomend it:) Specially for a NA.

Dayne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Rancher. Looking at your avatar, I would say you’d want a air box around your filter. It's also beneficial to duct some cold air into there as well.

There's no point trying to get more power out of a motor if your plugs are crappy, so some new sparks and a general service of the engine can help too. Extractors can add that little bit more too, if you haven't already done them.

Once everything is in top shape, I would recommend getting the car dyno tuned, you may be surprised how well a good RB20DE can go.

Finally, and the cheapest mod of all, weight reduction.

The one thing the 2ltr really hates is weight, as the motor isn't as torquey as the bigger RB's. A light R32 GTS can really give higher-powered Skylines a run for their money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
    • Is the RB26 actually that far off the mark? Honestly from where I'm sitting a VR38DETT is not actually that much more advanced than the RB26. Yes, there is a scavenge pump on the VR38, it's smarter in a number of ways but it's not actually jumping out to me as alien technology. Something like a B58 or V35A-FTS on the other hand has so many surprising little design features that add up to be something that just isn't comparable. 
    • https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2021-nissan-skyline-400r-auto-rv37/SSE-AD-17857548/ Well there you go 
    • Chris won't reply. He doesn't visit the forum much anymore. You can try these guys https://www.facebook.com/autotainment/ They did mine many years ago
×
×
  • Create New...