Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm really keen on running a two screen set up, one motorised, and one mounted in like yours parish. I was thinking to mount a dvd disk drive aswell in......... thinking the glove box dunno it's not flat (anybody got ideas) and along side the disk drive some usb ports. Then again theres that whole laptop thing...........arrrrrrrrr to many options.

I'm really keen on running a two screen set up, one motorised, and one mounted in like yours parish. I was thinking to mount a dvd disk drive aswell in......... thinking the glove box dunno it's not flat (anybody got ideas) and along side the disk drive some usb ports. Then again theres that whole laptop thing...........arrrrrrrrr to many options.

yea agreed, there are so many options.

i was thikning about flush mounting my screen like parish, but thought if/when i sell my car, i want to take the computer with me, so im going to have a motorised in dash.

I want to know whether its faster.

The flash memory is faster but whether the data will go through the usb faster, im not sure of.

theoretically usb2 is 480mbits/sec which is about 50-60 mbytes/sec which will be faster than your ide hdd works in almost all cases.

I'll do it on monday so we can get a definate answer.

No one wants to wait extra seconds for the music to start (or the wanky show off bits :D ) when they get in their cars :(

I get what you're saying RE the usb key. but, I seriously don't see a harddrive as lasting very long.

I suppose one option migiht be keeping all the music and crap on a dvd, but that would be pretty gay. no different to just playing an mp3 cd.

So could you guys post up where you bought the mobo and psu from? was the lili screen 2nd hand? or new.

cheers.

Hardware:

Via EPIA Mini ITX Motherboard (1.3Ghz)

M2ATX power unit

1Gb Ram

80Gb SATA Hard Drive

USB GPS Receiver

7” Touch Screen

Software:

Windows Xp

RoadRunner

FreeDrive

Winamp

hi im also planning to put a system into my car as well but i don't have a clue where to purchase the usb gps receiver or which brand i should be looking for?

Just run everything off a large laptop hdd. Make a USB port at the front of your car, so that when you need to upload new music etc, you just plug a USB key with your new songs in and transfer....easy.

Edited by mikymouse

kentenchi: Check this one out.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GlobalSat-SiRF-III-...1QQcmdZViewItem

You can boot from a flash drive, there is a bit of software I cant remember the name, but I can dig it out tomorrow - it will format the drive ready for you to install windows to it. You need at least 2 gig to install xp, although i guess you could get away with less if you used win2000 or linux or something. Oh, and you need a motherboard which will allow booting from the usb, if you look in the bios > boot order you will be able to see if it supports that :unsure:

All in one guide:

http://www.tomshardware.com/2005/09/09/win...in_your_pocket/

Only really need 256meg to put windows on one apparently but 2gig would be much better for maps and all etc.

And usb would definitely boot up faster than a hard drive. Firstly think of the logic. Hard drive, motorised, need time to seek information based on platters etc. USB no moving parts, data can be accessed anywhere very quicky.

Bargin:

http://www.eyo.com.au/prod_C-RD2GB_proddes...s_warranty.html

My Q tho:

I've got a laptop atm, can I just get centrafuse, some maps from torrents, a usb gps thingo and run it through my lappy for testing?

Edited by Liiger
hi im also planning to put a system into my car as well but i don't have a clue where to purchase the usb gps receiver or which brand i should be looking for?

Get the Holux USB GPS off Ebay - $85

I've got one and its awesome! 20 Channel receiver and 45sec cold start time! :unsure:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Holux-GR-213U-Water...1QQcmdZViewItem

I've got a laptop atm, can I just get centrafuse, some maps from torrents, a usb gps thingo and run it through my lappy for testing?

yep thats exactly what I did.. Centrafuse + Maps from Torrents + Holux GPS + Lilliput 7" Motorized screen = awesome!

You dont need a 12v power supply for testing with a laptop too :unsure:

Get the Holux USB GPS off Ebay - $85

I've got one and its awesome! 20 Channel receiver and 45sec cold start time! :no:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Holux-GR-213U-Water...1QQcmdZViewItem

with that unit there, in the description it says

Built-in rechargeable lithium battery for Time- To- First-Fix(TTFF)

why does it need a bettery when it runs off USB?

with that unit there, in the description it says

why does it need a bettery when it runs off USB?

Cos the battery saves your last position when the computer is off. So when you turn the computer back on, it only takes 10 seconds or so to re-aquire. If it didnt have a battery, it would take 45 seconds EVERY time to aquire the satellites. The battery never goes dead cos the USB re-charges it. You wont ever have to change the battery. If the battery dies (which they EVENTUALLY do), it will just take 45 sec every time you start it up to aquire.

Hey Jon, i remeber when i was in your car and your girlfriend called i remeber you phone was in yoru pocket yet the carputer took over. I assume blue tooth. Can you run us through it, nobody has really touched on that, and after seeing it you car i though it's an eccelent idea.

Michael

Hey Jon, i remeber when i was in your car and your girlfriend called i remeber you phone was in yoru pocket yet the carputer took over. I assume blue tooth. Can you run us through it, nobody has really touched on that, and after seeing it you car i though it's an eccelent idea.

Michael

Well basically, the phone talks to the PC via bluetooth. A USB bluetooth dongle for your pc costs about $60 from ebay (maybe less). When a call comes in, the sound automatically mutes, and the phone control screen appears. Your phone send the audio through the bluetooth to your laptop, and the sounds comes out the car speakers. You hook up a micorophone to to microphone port on your computer, and install the microphone where a normal car kit mic is...

So effectively your phone can be in your pocket (like it was when you were in the car), and you can take a phone call over the car kit.

The software for the phone control is integrated into the software i've been raving about: Centrafuse. It's relatively simple to set up too. The software can grab your contacts list and display them too, so you can dial from your car pc, instead of having to pull your phone out of your pocket :woot:

Attached is a screen shot of the screen that you can use to make calls etc.

post-23673-1150539982.jpg

Edit: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/High-Speed-Bluetoot...1QQcmdZViewItem

USB Bluetooth - $15 delivered + maybe $20 for a mic, and you have a $35 bluetooth handsfree kit! :no:

Thanks Jon,

Thats helps heeps, how sensitive are the mics? Like do you have to mount it up on the roof type thing, becuase i allready have ultra sensors (from the alarm) there and they look dicky enough i think a mic woudl jsut highlight it. Wheres yours located?

well you'd be best off getting a directional mike, because an omni-directional mikes pick up too much noise from the surrounding cabin (ie. engine noise), so your sound quality would be shit. The issue with the directional mike is that its gotta be pointed directly at your mouth, so there isnt many other places you can mount it other than up in the top corner...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...