Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It actually does refer to reflectors.

Basically, it says this in summary:

1. HALOGEN reflectors and projectors do not have the optics to harness the hid globe because of the different focal point of the hid bulb. refer to the pic of the filament v the discharge.

2. HALOGEN projectors will still have a perfect cutoff, because it has a cutoff shield in it. this is basiaclly a piece of metal that runs across the projector.

3. HALOGEN reflectors will not have a perfect cutoff because there is no cutoff shield and when coupled with the different focal point of hid bulb = light scattered everywhere.

4. just because HALOGEN projectors have a good cutoff doesn't mean their good for hid. the light under the cutoff will be uneven. will have hotspots.

Regarding the bulbs, by all means install them. the cutoff and everything will stay the same. but refer to Daniel stern's page regarding bad blue bulbs. It is a common misconception that they decrease the lighting emitted even though it appears brighter because it's whiter. Basically, to make the light whiter, they use a blue filter which cuts out a lot of the yellower light. the bad thing is this makes it dimmer (most of the light from the bulb is yellow). Also, those ricer bulbs don't last long because they're shit quality.

Best upgrade for lighting and also the cheapest, is a set of narva plus 50 globes/phillips vision plus - $26 at auto one waitara. puts of 50% more light with no more power drawn. This coupled with a relay harness upgrade will give you a nice improvement. But they are yellow though because they don't have a blue filter, but this allows maximum light.

It all depends on whether you prefer looks or brightness.

I have researched lighting for so long and wasted over 2k on trying to upgrade the lighting of my various cars. my dad is involved in an area similar to this, and has helped me a lot with the lighting.

""""Regarding the bulbs, by all means install them. the cutoff and everything will stay the same. but refer to Daniel stern's page regarding bad blue bulbs. It is a common misconception that they decrease the lighting emitted even though it appears brighter because it's whiter. Basically, to make the light whiter, they use a blue filter which cuts out a lot of the yellower light. the bad thing is this makes it dimmer (most of the light from the bulb is yellow). Also, those ricer bulbs don't last long because they're shit quality.""""

Are you referring to the HID or the mtec halogens i want to put in? I do want the white/ever so light blue tinge for my low beams/foggies. High beams i dont care, im happy to have yellow colour for maxiumum illumination.

Whats a relay harness?

""""Regarding the bulbs, by all means install them. the cutoff and everything will stay the same. but refer to Daniel stern's page regarding bad blue bulbs. It is a common misconception that they decrease the lighting emitted even though it appears brighter because it's whiter. Basically, to make the light whiter, they use a blue filter which cuts out a lot of the yellower light. the bad thing is this makes it dimmer (most of the light from the bulb is yellow). Also, those ricer bulbs don't last long because they're shit quality.""""

Are you referring to the HID or the mtec halogens i want to put in? I do want the white/ever so light blue tinge for my low beams/foggies. High beams i dont care, im happy to have yellow colour for maxiumum illumination.

Whats a relay harness?

Ive bought the HID kit for my R33 and currently have mtec bulbs installed. Mtec gives off nice blue light but they are nowhere near HID quality.

I will install the HID to see how well they work on my R33... but as manwhore said, it might be dodgy for the reasons he mentioned.

I have seen an R33 with HIDs and it looked great, the light was direct, not sure how he did it.

ALso what about R34? They are reflectors...

Ive bought the HID kit for my R33 and currently have mtec bulbs installed. Mtec gives off nice blue light but they are nowhere near HID quality.

I will install the HID to see how well they work on my R33... but as manwhore said, it might be dodgy for the reasons he mentioned.

I have seen an R33 with HIDs and it looked great, the light was direct, not sure how he did it.

ALso what about R34? They are reflectors...

Maybe he had a proper full HID package that transforms the lightning encloser? Not just an upgrade kit like we got.

Do you have any issues with the mtecs? Would you recommend them?

Be sure to post back when you do install them!

Edited by Xizor
Maybe he had a proper full HID package that transforms the lightning encloser? Not just an upgrade kit like we got.

Do you have any issues with the mtecs? Would you recommend them?

Be sure to post back when you do install them!

Mtecs are great for the price and what they are.

r33 gtr sIII came with xenon from factory.

r34 have xenon reflectors, as do lexus is200, is300, gs300.

Basically, a halogen reflector has different optics as mentioned by daniel stern.

I'm happy to demonstrate the difference between my xenons in my halogen reflector, a xenon in a halogen projector and a xenon in a xenon reflector. I don't have a car with xenon projectors, but have a look at any accord euro out there.

Xixor, I was talking about the halogen mtec bulbs. Yeah, install them if you want whiter light. will still have good cutoff etc. But they will be dimmer though.

relay harness - daniel stern covers it too. stock headlight switch is resistance based. measure the voltage drop on the headlights. it'll probably only be getting 11v. at this voltage, about half the amount of light is provided if it was getting 13.8v.

By using relays and thick wiring straight from the battery, you can get more voltage and it'll be a lot brighter.

PS: I always refer to daniel stern coz it is a good summary of the priniciples involved. He isn't just one point of view. He is correct and is supported by many other people etc. I just quote him because he's clear, concise and easy to understand.

relay harness sounds good. Any auto elec will know what this is all about?

I think i will get some mtecs for my low beams, foggies, LED for parkers, and some narva plus 50 globes/phillips vision plus for high beams. Then i can work out what to do with the HID later.

Now i just have to work out how to install these normal halogens...

It's good though that you actually understand about the effect of installing bad hid. many people do not - it's evident by all the people that jumped in on the group buy.

I wish I had access to sites like daniel stern before I wasted like 2k on crappy hid kits. I'm actually about to REMOVE my hid kit from my car. The only thing stopping me is I butchered the factory wiring.

The 2k that I spent could have been spent to buy brand new sIII gtr headlights, which would ahve been totally awesome. That will probably be my course of action anyways. As I said, i'm obsessed about lighting.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok well i have replaced the stock low beams and fog lights with the mtec cosmic white/blue globes. they look really nice, but dont give much good light. Can i do anything to boost the power into them? Or should i just shutup and adapt? hehe

As I said above, relay the lights. You may need to get someone to do it for you if you don't know how.

But basically, use the original wire to switch the relay. This will supply power to the light fused from the battery.

The globes are designed to take 14+ volts. Except, as everything is done at a budget, the car does not relay the light from factory to save cost. The stock headlight switch has a high resistance + the stock wiring is really thin, which equals more resistance. By relaying my lights, I am able to get 13.8 v. Stock, only had 11.1 volts.

Refer to daniel stern. At 11 v, the globes are only giving 60% of the maximum output.

PS, if you want want someone to do it for you, I have a friend who can do it.

This is for anything on the car that you want to optimise the performance of.

People even relay the fuel pump, so it gets more flow, compared to the voltage dropped amount.

But in answer to your question, yes. When I did it on my subaru station wagon, I noticed a nice improvement. It's not gonna be like whoa, the lights turned into the sun sorta improvement. But you will notice it if you do one side at a time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...