Rb25det Mods

[_Victory_]

I recently just bought a R33 GTS-T the engine is stock 3'' exhuast with a side mount runs 9 psi dayli use im upgrading to a front mount soon, my aim is to have 300+kw at the wheels i have plans for it but can you tell me whats the best mods i should go for to get my wanted power?

cheers

[bogcock]

bigger intercooler, higer flowing fuel pump, hi flow turbo or similar eg gt30/35, injectors, computer, and probably a new clutch...

[R31Nismoid]

go get a loan for $15,000

As that realistically is what its going to cost you for what you want

settle for 250rwkw and its around half that, or maybe a tad more

[_Victory_]

15k seems to be pushing abit like you mentioned i only have about half of that to spend on it

this is the frount mount im wanting to get http://www.xspeed.com.au/shop/product_info...roducts_id=1610

is it ok or look for something else?

[paulr33]

a search would have told you everything you need to know;

however

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=116984

[Quinny]

If you are building a 300rwkw engine, you can't skimp on anything. Ideally, if you want reliability, you should use forged internals.

Judging by your last comment, my guess is your budget is around $7000. I am in a similar position, but my budget is around $5K. I have decided on the following:

Power FC - $1000

Electronic Boost controller - $500

ARC Turn Flow FMIC - $1200

GCG Hi Flow turbo - $1950

Tune - $500

Also add Nismo injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure reg will add a little more.

If I was in your position, I would go for the above or similar, add cams and a heavy duty clutch will part you with your money. I am only fairly new to turbo engines, but from what I have read, you could get around 250rwkw from these mods.

Like I said, I am no expert, so others may feel differently, but that is my 2c.

[R31Nismoid]

15k seems to be pushing abit like you mentioned i only have about half of that to spend on it

well cut the 300rwkw aim down to 250rwkw right away dude as for 7.5k 300rwkw is not really in the ball park if your starting from a stock car

Everyone wants 300rwkw, no-one understands the costs to get there

[Al]

If you are building a 300rwkw engine, you can't skimp on anything. Ideally, if you want reliability, you should use forged internals.

Judging by your last comment, my guess is your budget is around $7000. I am in a similar position, but my budget is around $5K. I have decided on the following:

Power FC - $1000

Electronic Boost controller - $500

ARC Turn Flow FMIC - $1200

GCG Hi Flow turbo - $1950

Tune - $500

Also add Nismo injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure reg will add a little more.

If I was in your position, I would go for the above or similar, add cams and a heavy duty clutch will part you with your money. I am only fairly new to turbo engines, but from what I have read, you could get around 250rwkw from these mods.

Like I said, I am no expert, so others may feel differently, but that is my 2c.

That list sounds pretty sound, just one thing i would advise you against.

If a "hiflow" is going to cost you nearly $2k, i would prefer to buy a HKS GTRS Kit or a Garrett equivalent. Yes they are a little more expensive but they are REALLY worth the extra $$$'s. With the Garrett, make sure you price in a heavier boost actuator, oil/water lines, exhaust mods, etc. The HKS GTRS Kit is purely a bolt on affair and comes with ALL necessary pieces. It is designed to bolt on to the factory airbox, factory intercooler and factory exhaust; but you'll be stupid to replace the turbo without a hiflow (3"min) exhaust system and FMIC.

Just my 2c , from someone that has learnt the expensive way .

[mad082]

is there a reason why you want 300rwkw? is it just to crack the magic 300? thats 400hp. are you going to use the car for track use, drags of just daily driver? if drags what time are you looking for? 400hp would get you low 12's high 11's if you can get the power to the ground.

add onto the list of what has been mentioned, high mount manifold, external wastegate, good tyres, bov, possibly a new plenum.

[Quinny]

That list sounds pretty sound, just one thing i would advise you against.

If a "hiflow" is going to cost you nearly $2k, i would prefer to buy a HKS GTRS Kit or a Garrett equivalent. Yes they are a little more expensive but they are REALLY worth the extra $$$'s. With the Garrett, make sure you price in a heavier boost actuator, oil/water lines, exhaust mods, etc. The HKS GTRS Kit is purely a bolt on affair and comes with ALL necessary pieces. It is designed to bolt on to the factory airbox, factory intercooler and factory exhaust; but you'll be stupid to replace the turbo without a hiflow (3"min) exhaust system and FMIC.

Just my 2c , from someone that has learnt the expensive way .

I agree that an aftermarket turbo would be better, however, the mods I listed will break the budget as it is, so I figured that the hi-flow might be better value for money on the budget. Seeing as it is the factory turbo with modified internals it can use all the factory bits and pieces, and you don't need to re-do the exhaust.

[Al]

I agree that an aftermarket turbo would be better, however, the mods I listed will break the budget as it is, so I figured that the hi-flow might be better value for money on the budget. Seeing as it is the factory turbo with modified internals it can use all the factory bits and pieces, and you don't need to re-do the exhaust.

That's why i went for the HKS (read my first post), yes it is $700 more but if you can save this little extra, the rewards are two-fold. I found my hi-flow very laggy and others have also said the same. Once my car is finished (looks like another 2 weeks ) i will post up a comparison between my hi-flow and the newly installed GTRS.

[Al]

................................................

add onto the list of what has been mentioned, high mount manifold, external wastegate, good tyres, bov, possibly a new plenum.

Bullshit

I should get close to the 300rwkw with using factory manifold and internal gate, the only thing that will hold me back is the std bottom end

Many others have also achieved more than 300rwkw with std manifold and internal gate.

[Quinny]

That's why i went for the HKS (read my first post), yes it is $700 more but if you can save this little extra, the rewards are two-fold. I found my hi-flow very laggy and others have also said the same. Once my car is finished (looks like another 2 weeks ) i will post up a comparison between my hi-flow and the newly installed GTRS.

I was expecting the HKS to be more expensive than that. I don't suppose it would use the same exhaust? (I doubt it). I already have a good exhaust system. When you say that the hi-flow was laggy, how laggy is it? I have heard people saying it is pretty noisy, but haven't heard complaints of excess lag.

I would be interested to see those results.

[Evan_R33]

A mate of mine has spun 200kW at the wheels on stock internals, stock head, stock turbo, stock injectors!! 300kW is not 15,000 bucks away!

p.s his mods are: the usual turbo back exhaust air filter etc. front mount (using standard piping arrangement) bleed valve, Power FC, fuel pump and a F***ing good tune.

and that's what it's all about. DYNO time. it is worth the money you pay for a good tune.

with those mods + a HKS GTRS, and injectors it's not gonna be too far shy of that 300kW mark.

15 grand? i don't think so!

[217/r33]

I wouldn’t push standard internals past 240/250rwkw. People here have but for how long can you run that for driving it everyday... My advice better safe then sorry. Refresh the bottom end with new bearings shot peening the rods, forge pistons and some headwork ECT.... will get you well over 300. But depending on how much work you can do your self. Maybe u can get away with 7g but you will have to do the work. I still think 7g is tight build for 300rwkw knowing how much other small things you’re going to run into along the way, like fuel system, cams, lifters, valve springs, turbo ECT...

That’s my 5c....

Cheers,

Alex.

[_Victory_]

Ok back on topic

i have done my own research but everyone does diffrent ways brands ect... to get there power so was seeing whats the best option plus search engines more porn sites then anything!!

the hi flow turbo im looking at is $2,995.00 500 hp bolt on roller bearing turbo with internal wastegate actuator they rekon its capable of producing over 200 kw at the wheels max flow is 50 lbs's/min w/gate capcitiy is 15 psi i've got other stuff too like higer flowing fuel pump bosch one can hold 600 hp around $350, apexi induction air flow kit, electronic boost controller, turbo timer, internals Powerflow Injection - Nissan RB25DET 870CC Fuel Rail Kit about $1500 also gettin streathen the valves and valve springs, aftermarket cams (HKS), Aftermarket Camshaft, upgrade valve guides, port polished Cylinder Heads and Pistons, maybe some RB26 Conrods to strengthen the engine

400hp would get you low 12's high 11's if you can get the power to the ground.

Im building the car to drag but i think low 12's high 11's is abit dreamable was looking more at low 13's - mid 12's i'll give it a dyno tune and a run when i get the intercooler and air flow kit on show you where im at .

thanks for the help

Edited June 13, 2006 by _Victory_

[Al]

I was expecting the HKS to be more expensive than that. I don't suppose it would use the same exhaust? (I doubt it). I already have a good exhaust system. When you say that the hi-flow was laggy, how laggy is it? I have heard people saying it is pretty noisy, but haven't heard complaints of excess lag.

I would be interested to see those results.

Re-wording what i stated above .

You existing exhaust, that bolts onto your std turbo, will NOT need to be modified and WILL bolt straight onto the HKS GTRS, same as you existing i/c pipes and your existing airbox/pod. This kit is a direct replacement and come with new oil/water lines and everthing else you need

Here is a graph of my current hi-flow, not sure where the hi-flow was done, but it has been done properly as checked by ATP (Melbourne's equivalent to GCG). Pete's dyno is a GCG hi-flow, with a much better tune, but the characteristics are the same. We both have cams, but i also have head porting.

[LiQuid IcE]

i have done my own research but everyone does diffrent ways brands ect... to get there power so was seeing whats the best option plus search engines more porn sites then anything!!

haha when they said 'search' I think they meant within SAU... top left of the page, search button.

Wish I had your kinda money to blow all at once

[Al]

Im building the car to drag but i think low 12's high 11's is abit dreamable was looking more at low 13's - mid 12's i'll give it a dyno tune and a run when i get the intercooler and air flow kit on show you where im at .

thanks for the help

Are you building a car for drag or a engine for power. Before you touch the engine spend the money on suspension, you'll get much better results.

You'll need:

- 10/40 coilovers/shocks

- Good drag rubber

- remove strut braces

- modify sway-bars to increase body roll (ie: smaller/thinner sway bars)

- replace bushes with Whiteline "handling pack" and get a set of "pinapples"-set them for drag.

- etc, etc, etc.

The car will handle like a boat and would be shit round corners, but would be awesome in a staright line.

Alot of people are under the illusion power=good time.

When my car was lightly moded 3yrs ago (exhaust, ecu, fmic, coilovers, the usual first mods @ 180rwkw) i ran a best of 13.4sec. Since then i have modified my car for street/track, so i concintrated alot on stiffing the suspension. Went to Heathcote 2 months ago (now have cams, hi-flow, circuit tuned suspension, 250rwkw, etc) i ran a best time of 15.5sec. Yes i was disappointed, but i knew my car has been set up to go round a track and turn corners, so off the start i either broke traction or boged down.

[_Victory_]

Thanks for the advice Al but aint making the car a fully workt drag car i meant by the only racing activity i'll do with it is draging and sometimes track racing might have a look into some of things you suggested tho

you think this http://www.xspeed.com.au/shop/product_info...roducts_id=1610 front mount will be able to within stand 250kw+ at the engine?

haha when they said 'search' I think they meant within SAU... top left of the page, search button.

Wish I had your kinda money to blow all at once

got exams soon brain is rotting!!! lol i dont have the full amount but i got a good job and just save also dont be soft hearted in saying too passangers wheres my fuel money no fuel money then shouting the grog for the night