Rb25det Mods

[_Victory_]

Thanks michael for the info how much psi did you use when you dragged? have slicks on?

This is the list of mods im going to do in order "havent workt out brands yet"

1. Boost Gauge

2. High performance air filter/CAI

3. Intercooler Kit

4. BOV

5. Electronic Boost Controller/Turbo Timer

6. Injectors

7. ECU

8. Clutch, Fuel pump upgrade

9. streathen the valves and valve springs, aftermarket cams, Aftermarket Camshaft, upgrade valve guides, port polished Cylinder Heads and Pistons, maybe some RB26 Conrods “ready for turbo upgrade”

10. Hi flow turbo upgrade???? may use bigger exhuast housings

anything else i could add? lets say i put all these mods on where do you think i'll stand with kw and 1/4 miles times.

[Kaido_RR]

Thanks michael for the info how much psi did you use when you dragged? have slicks on?

i was running 0.8bar which is about 12psi,

i was running potenza G3 (street tyres).

13.8 was very easily done... if i had more runs im sure i could have got a better time, im not 100% of how much hp i was running but i would est at around 200 hp as i was stillrunning stock dump pipe...

also i had my coilover setup on the hardest setting and didnt have time to change them to the sofest setting.

With the mods you have listen i would est a 12second 1/4mile.. again it depends how well you can drive im sure with 300 to 350rwhp you could achived a low 12 or a high 11's

im not sure if option 9 is need, as lot of rb25 are running between 300-350rwhp on stock engines.. thou the cams would help bring the turbo on boost quicker

also do ecu before injectors as you cant run aftermarket injectors without an aftermarket ecu.

Bov isnt needed but if your going to run around the 300hp mark i would say upgrade to stock gtr bov, but for now i say dont change it,as i found the car was quicker which the stock bov compare to an aftermarket atmo bov, as it made the car run alot richer (but if you have an aftermarket ecu this program can be fix very easy)

ohh and if you dont have any sort of aftermarket shock/springs i would look at upgrading them aswell, as no point having power if your car cant handle good (i found my coilovers to be one of the best mods ive done to date increase the cars handle charactised by a huge amount)

hope that helps

p.s if ur wondering where my post went i fit delete when i was tring to edit it hehe

p.s im guessing your from wa if your looking at the xspeed website yeah?

[R31Nismoid]

A mate of mine has spun 200kW at the wheels on stock internals, stock head, stock turbo, stock injectors!! 300kW is not 15,000 bucks away!

p.s his mods are: the usual turbo back exhaust air filter etc. front mount (using standard piping arrangement) bleed valve, Power FC, fuel pump and a F***ing good tune.

and that's what it's all about. DYNO time. it is worth the money you pay for a good tune.

with those mods + a HKS GTRS, and injectors it's not gonna be too far shy of that 300kW mark.

15 grand? i don't think so!

Ill bite cause im tired as sin

Ok... you "mate" already has

Exhasut - $1000

PowerFC/tuned - $1500

I/C - $700 installed

Pump - $400

Your up @ $3000 before you even start.

Include.

Turbo - 2k

injectors - $900

Bottom end - $5-7k

Cams - $800

$11,000

You telling me that its not going to cost $15,000?

Go do your homework and come back

cheers

Here is a graph of my current hi-flow, not sure where the hi-flow was done, but it has been done properly as checked by ATP (Melbourne's equivalent to GCG). Pete's dyno is a GCG hi-flow, with a much better tune, but the characteristics are the same. We both have cams, but i also have head porting.

Yes, but that graph of Pete vs your car is now much better (from the GCG point of view) as Pete's car had a lazy actuator and was dropping boost/flapping in the lower RPM.

So his graph comes on 1000rpm earlier which now is leagues ahead of your hi-flow, and i would say for 250rwkw, leagues ahead of the GT-RS aswell.

It will be interesting if we can get one last graph outta Pete with the actuator/int gate lag problem solved.

$700 is $700, thats a set of cams for people on a budget.

IMO i couldnt justify the GTRS on a 7k budget when the car we are talking about is almost 100% stock

[BezerkR32]

Bush bearing highflow will cost you $1350. Have fitted many with good results. BB highflow from GCG will cost you around $1800. Never used one as the bush bearing units work well, but sure it is a good unit. Lots of trick turbo combinations can be purchased for $2000, but not always necessary.

That list sounds pretty sound, just one thing i would advise you against.

If a "hiflow" is going to cost you nearly $2k, i would prefer to buy a HKS GTRS Kit or a Garrett equivalent. Yes they are a little more expensive but they are REALLY worth the extra $$$'s. With the Garrett, make sure you price in a heavier boost actuator, oil/water lines, exhaust mods, etc. The HKS GTRS Kit is purely a bolt on affair and comes with ALL necessary pieces. It is designed to bolt on to the factory airbox, factory intercooler and factory exhaust; but you'll be stupid to replace the turbo without a hiflow (3"min) exhaust system and FMIC.

Just my 2c , from someone that has learnt the expensive way .

[R31Nismoid]

This is the list of mods im going to do in order "havent workt out brands yet"

1. Boost Gauge

2. High performance air filter/CAI

3. Intercooler Kit

4. BOV

5. Electronic Boost Controller/Turbo Timer

6. Injectors

7. ECU

8. Clutch, Fuel pump upgrade

9. streathen the valves and valve springs, aftermarket cams, Aftermarket Camshaft, upgrade valve guides, port polished Cylinder Heads and Pistons, maybe some RB26 Conrods “ready for turbo upgrade”

10. Hi flow turbo upgrade???? may use bigger exhuast housings

anything else i could add? lets say i put all these mods on where do you think i'll stand with kw and 1/4 miles times.

Dude, you said your budget is $7000... is it $7000 or not?

We are trying to help but you cant keep changing your budget by $7000

Here are the prices for you for what you have above

1. $60

2. $100

3. $700

4. Not required

5. $300

6. $900

7. $1000 + tuning $1500

8. $1500

9. $8000

10. $2000

Thats a grand totall of ....

(wait for it)

$15,060

15k seems to be pushing abit like you mentioned i only have about half of that to spend on it

go get a loan for $15,000

As that realistically is what its going to cost you for what you want

settle for 250rwkw and its around half that, or maybe a tad more

[BezerkR32]

You cansave yourself alot of money here. Buy a boost controller which also acts as a guage, e.g Eboost 1. dont need an aftermarket BOV. Dont have to do any internal engine work for mid to high 200kw, can run anywhere from mid 12s to mid 11s on standard internals and quicker on the bottle. 250 kw at the tyres with drag radials could see you a mid to low 12 sec pass if you can drive, and cost you alot less as has been previously posted, otherwise you will be looking at the 14k mark and that does not include internals.

Thanks michael for the info how much psi did you use when you dragged? have slicks on?

This is the list of mods im going to do in order "havent workt out brands yet"

1. Boost Gauge

2. High performance air filter/CAI

3. Intercooler Kit

4. BOV

5. Electronic Boost Controller/Turbo Timer

6. Injectors

7. ECU

8. Clutch, Fuel pump upgrade

9. streathen the valves and valve springs, aftermarket cams, Aftermarket Camshaft, upgrade valve guides, port polished Cylinder Heads and Pistons, maybe some RB26 Conrods “ready for turbo upgrade”

10. Hi flow turbo upgrade???? may use bigger exhuast housings

anything else i could add? lets say i put all these mods on where do you think i'll stand with kw and 1/4 miles times.

Edited June 13, 2006 by BezerkR32

[_Victory_]

Option 9 i think i'll get rid of as i've found skylines running 230kw+ with a stock engine, sorry man if im pissing you off but im just trying to find out all i can about my car and what i can do to it every one else i ask are a punch of assholes about it to me but thanks for calculating the cost prices got a rough idea now

[Quinny]

The prices listed are for parts only, you need to add labour to that for fitting etc if you can't do the work yourself.

[bogcock]

let me tell you dreamers something.. as long as you can do the work yourself ( saves you MASSiVE $$$), you can get 500-600hp for around 15grand. i know this cos i did it.

haltech ecu

1200cc injectors

walbro intank pump feeding surge talk and bosch pumps

forged rods

20 tho oversize forged pistons

stock valvetrain

ported head

big clutch (most $$)

2nd hand gt42r ( boost @ 5600)

stock box and diff

no im not lying. i have personally seen jason from wild1 motorsport push 580 odd hp with STOCK bottom end AND head!!!

maybe not a reliable choice, but possible

thankyou

[Cubes]

Providing the bottom end is in good nick save a little, don't rebuild it *just yet* and drop the comp (8.5:1) with a thicker headgasket if your aiming for over 250rwkw.

+ all the usual supporting mods.

Injectors

Fuel pump

PFC + PFC EBC (pfc ebc's are relatively cheap)

Exhaust

FMIC

Clutch

Cams

and be sure you have a good tuner.

You may also have to upgrade the diff or shim the std item, throw pineapples in the cradle to stiffen it up a little, suspension, brakes and wider/better tyres.

It all adds up very quickly. as Mr. Nizmoid stated, 15k from STOCK is about right.

[R31Nismoid]

LOL @ GT42 on RB25... and then boost @ 5600

Are you trying to have a joke. That would be the most pointless excercise of all time

[Color_Of_Green]

You could sell what you've got and buy a GTS thats already modded? With all the $$$ I've spent on my GTS to gain 280rwkw I could have easily bought a nice GTR.

Dont bother with GTRS, you'll find a HKS 2835ProS MUCH nicer and bliss as a daily driver.

I'd also recommend a full 3" exhaust, some HKS drop in cams, OS Giken adj cam gear, plazmaman FMIC, nismo fuel pump + injectors, eboost2, BOV, Power FC, lightened flywheel,and clutch upgrade.

Ahh, also Z32 AFM as stock will max out.

Stock plenum/manifold ok.

Stock exhaust manifold ok for that power. but if you want more exhuast flow dont worry about after market turbo manifold - match port and extrude hone flow better.

Also dont forget that if you upgrade your turbo you MIGHT want to replace your exhuast manifold studs with some stronger ones.. although it depends on if you have S1 or S2... blah blah blah

If you can do all fitting yourself then ofcourse going to save $$$ but if you mess up will cost $$$ to fix your mistakes. Either way the 300rwkw mark is well beyond 7K IMHO...

Edited June 19, 2006 by Color_Of_Green

[Al]

So his graph comes on 1000rpm earlier which now is leagues ahead of your hi-flow, and i would say for 250rwkw, leagues ahead of the GT-RS aswell.

IMO i couldnt justify the GTRS on a 7k budget when the car we are talking about is almost 100% stock

Ash - If you accept, i'll wager a slab of Carrona's that the GTRS is more reponsive/has more usable power than the hi-flow . Test to be done with both cars at the same dyno, on the same day.

Once my car was finished i had intended to go for another Dyno run at Racingline, just to compare it to my previous tune, if Pete wants to meet up on the same day, that would also be great.

At the end of the day you can not compair a turbo that has been specifically researched, designed, engineered and tested for a particular engine to another turbo that has had a fraction of the $$$s in research, using ready-made turbines and housings, that had been designed for other purposes.

You are right about Pete's turbo, his adjustment/repair had slipped my mind. But only his response is "leagues above mine" (1000 rpm), my turbo easily made more power than his, peak power was self limited and with a shitty tune.

[Al]

Dont bother with GTRS, you'll find a HKS 2835ProS MUCH nicer and bliss as a daily driver.

My decision was between the GTRS and the 2835ProS, after a little research i decided on the GTRS.

May i ask why you believe the 2835ProS is "MUCH nicer and bliss as a daily driver"?

Just would like to know for my own knowledge.

[Cubes]

Here's a GCG Highflow bolted on an R34 GTT with cams @ 14psi.

Appears to be up almost 20rwkw at ~100km/h

[paulr33]

thats with a leaking actuator cubes so it sohuld come on earlier now that its fixed

[Color_Of_Green]

My decision was between the GTRS and the 2835ProS, after a little research i decided on the GTRS.

May i ask why you believe the 2835ProS is "MUCH nicer and bliss as a daily driver"?

Just would like to know for my own knowledge.

More power and nice fat curve.. and not laggy at all.

see attached image ;-)

Dont get me wrong, GTRS is an excellent turbo though...

Edited June 20, 2006 by Color_Of_Green

[Al]

Color_Of_Green: That is a nice curve, probably one of the nicest i've seen with that turbo.

My target is somewhere between 250-280rwkw @ 18psi, with cams and head porting i think that may be acheivable, and still maintain better response.

Only time will tell

Either way it is going to be better than the hi-flow.

[Color_Of_Green]

Color_Of_Green: That is a nice curve, probably one of the nicest i've seen with that turbo.

My target is somewhere between 250-280rwkw @ 18psi, with cams and head porting i think that may be acheivable, and still maintain better response.

Only time will tell

Either way it is going to be better than the hi-flow.

agree. seen too many dissapointments with hi-flows .. they dont seem to be as consistently good as GCG suggest.

[Quinny]

From what I can see here, the hi-flow is no good for big power (i.e. 250rwkw or more). What about 220rwkw? I think that would be a nice target for a regular street car.

I am looking for a turbo that is not too expensive and will bolt up with minimal modification.

I was thinking of using a GCG hi-flow at around 14-15 psi with FMIC, PFC, EBC, full exhaust, probably GTR fuel pump, and maybe some Nismo injectors.

Is there a better turbo for this application?