Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for the wheels... well im looking at the model 5 copies on uniqueautosport website that are $1180 then buying second hand tyres. so they would have to work out less than that cause i prefer the model 5 to vs-5 (or whatever your model is called) even if they are copies.

thats what i was planning to do, by a standard bar and hack into it to fit the fmic. more stealth than the big trust bar.

040 goes in factory location - in tank,

If you are serious about wanting parts, then PM me your offers, but parts wont go cheaply as my preference is to sell the car complete, unless i find a buyer to buy my car less bits.

Thats not to say ill be asking for new part prices, but say i wont accept $500 for rims, of $600 etc for intercooler.

It is a Type S intercooler, from memory 600 x 300 x 60mm (or 76 check their website)

It came with HKS piping and hose/clamps, to look at the material is powder coated mild steel.

As for condition as i run mesh on my front bar it is in great condition, after a quick dip in some caustic to clean it up it would look like new, ie not a bent fin on the cooler, not one!

I dont have an oil/air separator so MAY have a thin film of oil on the inside that will clean up easy with the caustic bath.

Will try to take some more pics over the weekend, including interior, engine bay, suspension etc.

So just to clarify for those people who have sent me PM for parts, there is a couple of people kinda interested in the car with filter, zorst, brakes/susp.

If they take it off my hands then i will then be selling the IC, AVC-R, Power FC, oil cooler, Bosch Fuel pump etc AFTER the car is sold.

As i have explained to people i dont want to sell off good bits and be left with stocka that i have to drive every day, or no one wants, so have to sell cheaply like Chef _32's friend.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...