Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people,

looking at a few r34 gt-t's. there are alot of hight km (100 000+) on the market at very reasonable prices. what are the life expectancy, risks, turbo life etc on say a mild mod, regular seviced vehical? how many km's have you done? and what problems if any have you incured?? and info would be appreciated. regards Damian :devil:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122395-expected-engine-life/
Share on other sites

Hey people,

looking at a few r34 gt-t's. there are alot of hight km (100 000+) on the market at very reasonable prices. what are the life expectancy, risks, turbo life etc on say a mild mod, regular seviced vehical? how many km's have you done? and what problems if any have you incured?? and info would be appreciated. regards Damian :devil:

hey mate, i just recently bought a gtt, only done 34ks when i picked it up, and got it for $29.5k, insured with justcar, reasonable cost.. around 2900

3 year warrenty on all parts, is running great atm, high boosted it couple time, otherwise runs on 6psi..

watelse, got catback and couple aftermarket gauges and controller, pretty stock otherwise

hope this helped..

Mines done 86K and is still smooth as, even though i thrash it a bit. Feels similar to when i got it which was 60K. I change the oil rougly every 5K klms - note it isn't the smoothest 6 around so you may think it sounds rough when you first drive it. btw mine's fairly stock.

I would be quite surprised if the k's in the previous post are genuine (tho not sure of medel yr)- i wouldn't trust a pre 2000 model that's done less than 40K. Make sure you change filters and belts espicially if 100,000 service hasn't been done.

The expected engine life of all these RB engines are rated at at least 250,000kms. Read that somewhere, i'll try to put the article up.

The NEO RB25s are improved versions from the older RB25. The 34 shouldn't have a problem up to 300,000kms i reckon. Just look at those RB20s and RB26s in the R32 GTRs, most of them are still running really well even after 160ks.

My 2 Cs

I wouldn't place a huge focus on kilometers, for one thing most skylines odometers have been tampered with. When you test a car you can gauge by the condition of interior (wear on g/stick s/wheel, drivers seat, etc) and how it drives as to the condition of the car and engine, plus get a mechanical inspection. If the engine is in good running order, and u change oil every 5,000km and service every 10,000km you should have a very long running engine.

My family still has a nissan '82 bluebird with over 400,000km that still runs, despite not being looked after nearly as well as it could have been. Nissan engines are generally quite reliable and built to last and if well looked after will go for ages.

Just my 2 cents

Edited by r32line

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haven’t had the chance to drive it yet with work being a nightmare, will definitely be doing that at some point this week. got these so that grip won’t be an issue at roll racing  
    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...