Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people,

looking at a few r34 gt-t's. there are alot of hight km (100 000+) on the market at very reasonable prices. what are the life expectancy, risks, turbo life etc on say a mild mod, regular seviced vehical? how many km's have you done? and what problems if any have you incured?? and info would be appreciated. regards Damian :devil:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122395-expected-engine-life/
Share on other sites

Hey people,

looking at a few r34 gt-t's. there are alot of hight km (100 000+) on the market at very reasonable prices. what are the life expectancy, risks, turbo life etc on say a mild mod, regular seviced vehical? how many km's have you done? and what problems if any have you incured?? and info would be appreciated. regards Damian :devil:

hey mate, i just recently bought a gtt, only done 34ks when i picked it up, and got it for $29.5k, insured with justcar, reasonable cost.. around 2900

3 year warrenty on all parts, is running great atm, high boosted it couple time, otherwise runs on 6psi..

watelse, got catback and couple aftermarket gauges and controller, pretty stock otherwise

hope this helped..

Mines done 86K and is still smooth as, even though i thrash it a bit. Feels similar to when i got it which was 60K. I change the oil rougly every 5K klms - note it isn't the smoothest 6 around so you may think it sounds rough when you first drive it. btw mine's fairly stock.

I would be quite surprised if the k's in the previous post are genuine (tho not sure of medel yr)- i wouldn't trust a pre 2000 model that's done less than 40K. Make sure you change filters and belts espicially if 100,000 service hasn't been done.

The expected engine life of all these RB engines are rated at at least 250,000kms. Read that somewhere, i'll try to put the article up.

The NEO RB25s are improved versions from the older RB25. The 34 shouldn't have a problem up to 300,000kms i reckon. Just look at those RB20s and RB26s in the R32 GTRs, most of them are still running really well even after 160ks.

My 2 Cs

I wouldn't place a huge focus on kilometers, for one thing most skylines odometers have been tampered with. When you test a car you can gauge by the condition of interior (wear on g/stick s/wheel, drivers seat, etc) and how it drives as to the condition of the car and engine, plus get a mechanical inspection. If the engine is in good running order, and u change oil every 5,000km and service every 10,000km you should have a very long running engine.

My family still has a nissan '82 bluebird with over 400,000km that still runs, despite not being looked after nearly as well as it could have been. Nissan engines are generally quite reliable and built to last and if well looked after will go for ages.

Just my 2 cents

Edited by r32line

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...