Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just curious about O2 sensors on a GTR, do i have to buy genuine nissan ones or i can get aftermarket ones? and what aftermarket ones can i get to make them work?

no u dont have to run geniune ones

i see you are in brizzy give brisco butler a ring there located in windsor they deal with all auto electrial

stuff and they will supply u a bolt in replacement ones

frank price varies a lot depending on where you go. As cliche as it is, a searcg would reveal a lot of threads about replacement O2 sensors for RB26s. It seems that the EL Falcon sensor is only good for RB25 or something like that - you most certainly can use an aftermarket one but you'd have to search to find a part number.

For what it's worth mate :yes:

i just replaced the sensors in my 32 GTR last week and got them from global efi, they are vl commodore items, u just need 2 replace the plug on the rear sensor with the orig 1. thats if the 33 is the same???

r32 and r33 have different oxygen sensors.

r32 is itanium and r33 is some other format.

front and rear sensors have different plugs in both models i believe.

r33 gts/gtst can use falcon el sensor, its just a generic 3 wire 02 sensor but its easier to ask for ford falcon el than R33 gtst at your local parts dealer.

nowadays its not such a big problem. NGK website has part #'s for BNR32 sensors with matching plugs

the gtrs have the same sensor, made of the same material

Having the same problem, hence why i started my own thread!!

Just to clear things up. Both R32 and R33 GTR's use a sensor made out of titania. Both use a three wire plug and both have a voltage range of 0 to 1 volts. This is why the Power FC is generic for both in regards to the O2 sensors. The ONLY difference is the thread size of the sensors.

R32 GTR: 12mm thread

R33 GTR: 18mm thread (spark plug thread)

Now, both use the same plug formats as well i believe, which differ from the front one and back one.

The factory serial numbers (genuine nissan) for these items are:

R32: Front - 22690-05U21 (Flat 3 wire plug)

Rear - 22690-05U22 (Square 4 pin plug)

Alternatives - front - NTK OTDF-P1P

rear - NTK OTDF-P1L1

R33: Front - 22690-24U02 ($209 from Metro Nissan Brisbane)

Rear - 22690-24U01 ($212 from Nissan)

So as you can see, buying genuine nissan is just being A$$ raped, hence why i am looking for alternatives.

Tony

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...