Jump to content
SAU Community

Tas Fuel


Mashi Maro
 Share

Recommended Posts

Just got news today that Ultimate will be pumping on the 20th of july

herd that before.......will have to wait and see!

SAU discount will be sweet!....put a sticker on my car if needs be!

Edited by nizmokid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

in hobart???

No in Launy :P

The logistics team for advance (BP) were over this week for a meeting and to organize the roll out. He assure me it was going to be delivered on the 17th and pumping by the 20th

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its only Optimax mate.

So considering what you can buy Martini or Sunoco for (much better fuels) i wouldn't waste my money.

I would run with 95RON and some Martini OB (will bump it upto 98.3RON)

and its a lot cheaper doing it that was as well :)

GMB

I guess you must be aware its difficult for you to post without it seeming that you are just pushing your vested interest...

Wouldn't waste your money..... I would wager that given optimax is less than 25% of the price then Martini or Sunoco would need to be 4 times as good to make it worthwhile, or hey lets pretend you use optimax and a very expensive octane booster, then I'd like to see verifiable results that you get twice as much "performance" from the Martini stuff.

I bet theres no real way to back even the second statement - the pissweak 98 vs M110 comparo test on the website was done with a completely different tune...... Pricing is conspicuously absent from your postings and from the comparos too.

Its one thing to say x product has awesome performance, but surely most people would weigh it against it being 4 times as expensive!

All I'm saying folks is that there are lots of race fuels around, don't just buy one because its new or lots of people are suddenly praising it.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess you must be aware its difficult for you to post without it seeming that you are just pushing your vested interest...

Wouldn't waste your money..... I would wager that given optimax is less than 25% of the price then Martini or Sunoco would need to be 4 times as good to make it worthwhile, or hey lets pretend you use optimax and a very expensive octane booster, then I'd like to see verifiable results that you get twice as much "performance" from the Martini stuff.

I bet theres no real way to back even the second statement - the pissweak 98 vs M110 comparo test on the website was done with a completely different tune...... Pricing is conspicuously absent from your postings and from the comparos too.

Its one thing to say x product has awesome performance, but surely most people would weigh it against it being 4 times as expensive!

All I'm saying folks is that there are lots of race fuels around, don't just buy one because its new or lots of people are suddenly praising it.....

:PRIGHT

How is OPTIMAX 25% less than any of the other race fuels???

Last time i checked there was about 30cents difference in it :D

I have run and used Sunoco for many years and always would over OPTIMAX as its a better fuel, have a better combustion rate and is more efficient for the high boost application that i was running.

OPTIMAX just didn't cut it, never has and never will for me!!!

As for the results on Martini OB then if you had a look the info on the first page and on there site you would see the test they did was with the SAME car/fuel but all they did was add the Martini OB, wound some iginition into the mix until they reached the knock level that they already had from the first run.

In the mean time picking up a couple of extra kw's in the process but without actually adding boost to the application.

Skyline_R32_test.pdf

Lets see you do that with other OB's like *&^%$ or *%$$@ or even $%$@(%$@

What i wrote was based on my own personal experince's from tuning my car and the rebroad minded persons that we found/got.

Funny thing is that 2 out of 3 other people with very similar set up to mine had the same results as well.

Dr Drift has done dyno research with many different forms of OB and came to similar conclusions as well and he use's and recommends the same.

SEE A BIT OF A PATTERN HERE???

Now you can believe what you will but i haven't once plugged or try to push anything on SAU (save it for my own site and when i travel) nor do i push with any other of our sponsors.

What i do do is give my opinion (as thats all it is) and try and help out my friends and people i know if i can in anyway, be it good prices on parts, free labour or advertising.

Truth is from 270 views and 24 replies yours is the only negative one (not sure why) and the only one that expresses a different side of the argument.

Have you used any of the above mentioned fuels or OB's personally???

Can you buy it in at wholesale cost and then offer it others without making money on the product???

Have you done any R&D of your own with your car and a comparison test with over 4 different fuels and 7 different OB's???

My point being that i have and the results spoke for themselves really.

Talk to anyone that has used a certain product and they will give you there opinion, speak to the person next to them that has used the same product and chances are you will get a different opinion.

What i wrote about the Martini OB was based on my opnion as it was for the Sunoco/Martini fuel VS OPTIMAX.

If you have a problem with something that is written or if you feel that it doesn't apply to the forum rules then use the report post button.

If you have a problem with another member then try a PM to expain or go through a mod.

If you want to have ago at someone ele's post stating you would like to see the proof, then turn around with a side of your argument without any proof, then save if for BC.com or ricers R us ;)

GMB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:PRIGHT

How is OPTIMAX 25% less than any of the other race fuels???

Last time i checked there was about 30cents difference in it :D

It was suggested that the martini fuel was in the region of $147.00/20lt or ~$7.35/litre , whereas optimax was $1.70/litre? More than 30 cents there surely.

lots of stuff about OBs chopped for space

What i wrote was based on my own personal experince's from tuning my car and the rebroad minded persons that we found/got.

Funny thing is that 2 out of 3 other people with very similar set up to mine had the same results as well.

Dr Drift has done dyno research with many different forms of OB and came to similar conclusions as well and he use's and recommends the same.

SEE A BIT OF A PATTERN HERE???

I see a pattern; I didn't mention OB except as an additive to the cheaper fuel. I did get my wires crossed there!

I was comparing the cost/benefit ratio of spending 1.70/l + some octane booster, to spending $7.35/litre, for the average person who lets face it might need more than 95 ron but probably doesn't need full on race fuel.

I also see Martini's website publishing extremely positive testing results from their own testing, reported by a magazine they advertise in! Excuse me for being a sceptic....

The test I referred to was 98 vs M110, not the OB test, and FWIW I think the article makes it fairly clear if you read between the lines that there wasn't a magic 50rwkw in the fuel, more in a decent tune anyway....

As for 95+OB, likely to only see results around the same quality as straight 98 - and I'd have thought a decent OB would cost somewhat more than 30c/litre? I can see its simpler than buying drums though

Now you can believe what you will but i haven't once plugged or try to push anything on SAU (save it for my own site and when i travel) nor do i push with any other of our sponsors.

What i do do is give my opinion (as thats all it is) and try and help out my friends and people i know if i can in anyway, be it good prices on parts, free labour or advertising.

Truth is from 270 views and 24 replies yours is the only negative one (not sure why) and the only one that expresses a different side of the argument.

Out of 270 views and 24 replies it seems your the only person who has used the fuel

Have you used any of the above mentioned fuels or OB's personally???

No, afraid I haven't, really only ever stuck to BP100, Elf, methanol on occasion and when available have run Powermist T112/T10/Dynol 832/TO137 (powermist fuel is a bit exotic though)...

Can you buy it in at wholesale cost and then offer it others without making money on the product???

Have you done any R&D of your own with your car and a comparison test with over 4 different fuels and 7 different OB's???

My point being that i have and the results spoke for themselves really.

No to most of the above I'm afraid. Well, haven't with the car anyway, certainly tried running a fair few different fuels in our racebikes over the years. I'll admit I'm new to what fuels work best in a turbo application, and thusfar I'd just stick to what has been shown to work.

As for OBs I'd always tune for the fuel, not for an additive- too risky IMO - anyway, I was only playing devil's advocate mentioning their use

Talk to anyone that has used a certain product and they will give you there opinion, speak to the person next to them that has used the same product and chances are you will get a different opinion.

What i wrote about the Martini OB was based on my opnion as it was for the Sunoco/Martini fuel VS OPTIMAX.

Absolutely true, no argument here.

If you have a problem with something that is written or if you feel that it doesn't apply to the forum rules then use the report post button.

If you have a problem with another member then try a PM to expain or go through a mod.

If you want to have ago at someone ele's post stating you would like to see the proof, then turn around with a side of your argument without any proof, then save if for BC.com or ricers R us ;)

GMB

I'm sorry if it seemed unduly antagonistic, that wasn't really the idea. Just wanted to spark some debate/verification instead of every 2nd post being "buy martini its great I can get it"; if you follow my drift (so to speak).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hear what your saying chief and im not having ago at you at all, as thats your opinion.

Like i said at the end of the day its just people's opinions.

Ive never once said buy Martini i can get it, i just recommended it as i have found it to be the best OB on the market at the moment that i have used :)

As for tuning for fuel and not OB i couldn't agree more, but when you factor in the crappy 95RON Premo :P that we are so lucky to have here in Tassie then most people looking for big numbers would normally use an OB to bump it up to see what they can get.

Having said that for the sake of 10rkw's+ it works out to be a pretty expensive excerise when you have to put OB in with every tank.

I personally wouldn't do it on a daily but have done so with my track car and the boat.

As for race bikes, im not 100% sure if your talking about road/dirt but from all the bikes i have ever owned/raced/riden or worked on i have found that using OB or even Premo in some (most only run standard ULP as u would be aware) it not only fowled the plugs and made the bike run worst, i got less k's to a tank.

Id like to know more about your finding's with bikes, especially if it was road bike :)

And im always one for a good argument myself, jsut remember though that it is the net and what someone writes isn't always the way it sounded in there head, nor can you hear the sacarism in there voice :(

GMB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As for race bikes, im not 100% sure if your talking about road/dirt but from all the bikes i have ever owned/raced/riden or worked on i have found that using OB or even Premo in some (most only run standard ULP as u would be aware) it not only fowled the plugs and made the bike run worst, i got less k's to a tank.

Id like to know more about your finding's with bikes, especially if it was road bike :teehee:

Road, dirt, street, race,two stroke, four stroke, singles, fours...Mucked about at some point everything from 1970's 2 stroke vintage MX bikes to GSXR1000 production superbikes; my dad used to own a large Kawasaki/Suzuki dealership and service/tuning centre in Victoria. We (mostly Dad!) raced/prepped bikes for thumpernats, state MX, state roadrace, national roadrace.

My experience is that...

Most roadies do seem to go fine on ULP or PULP, but for race applications and when you're running higher than stock compression sometimes we'd just go straight for the race fuels. Some of the ram air equipped roadies (ZX9R's especially) used to seem to need a dash of isopropyl alcohol to stop carbies icing up, all but fixed with the majority on injection now. And I think now most circuit racing requires non leaded pump fuels anyway doesn't it?

Not to mention that since most bikes are jetted/run plugs suited to ULP/PULP, it takes tuning and mucking around with maps, jet kits, doing plug chops etc etc to get any small benefit on the road out of other fuel; not really worth it generally.

BP100 is more than adequate for most race bikes, two strokes seem to run fine on ULP or sometimes PULP, however on older air cooled race bikes (especially two strokes) we found the race fuels were useful in reducing combustion temps hence temperature related seizing/pinging.

We ran Powermist race fuels because we were able to backdoor it from Team Kawasaki Australia (who were running it in their 750cc superbikes and as I recall were backdooring theirs from Muzzy's in the USA, haha), and the bike it was being used in primarily tended to run quite hot ('97 KLX650R grasstrack MX bike with serious engine mods, i.e. 13.5:1 comp, carillo rod, wiseco forged piston, white bros custom cams, modded head and 65hp at the tyre, did over 200kmh at Finke, radared at 153kmh at Geelong thumpernats - in 4th!) the cooler burning fuel helped somewhat.

Oh, and everything seems to hang together longer running motul oils; can't recall ever having a blowup on motul 2 stroke, and seemed to get better service life out of most 4 strokes with motul oils.

Our 1981 2x4 Hilux shop hack with a tired 18R seemed to go noticeably better on BP100, in fact even when it had 2 stroke oil mixed in it, and on occasion seemed to like the Powermist Dynol832 - you find these things out when you run low on fuel and have a few drums of race fuel in the back, haha.

Edited by floody
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People still have Skylines? I thought they're non-existent now. 
    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
×
×
  • Create New...