Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im thinking of taking my car to a drift practise night and i was wondering what setup is ok?

im running a stock engine setup with boost and HKS coilovers(hyper-d).

i have 19s but i will getting stockies, what size would be good?

is this setup ok?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122434-drift-setup-for-a-r34/
Share on other sites

If you've never done it before and you're learning its fine (I'd probably turn the boost down, if anything). You don't need massive power, and bigger lag, when you're first learning how to balance a car on the throttle. As long as you've got enough power to break traction at all it'll be fine.

I would have even suggested stock suspension. While it won't ultimately handle as well or provide you with the ability to do super-happy insane drift speeds, if you're not an advanced driver the progressiveness of the weight shift in a stock setup makes it easier for a novice to "feel" what a car is doing and get the fundamentals down. And it keeps a lid on your speed, so you've got more time to react.

Just like people can't jump straight into an F1 car and expect to keep it on the track, you should learn to drift on lesser and more forgiving machinery before building a D1 car.

it already sounds like you have everything you need to go drifting mate...hks hypermax will make it a lot easier to drift... i dont know what scathing is talking about but it will have a lot less body roll with the coilovers...i assume your diff is a viscous type lsd which should be fine for your first time out however if your going to get more serious i would suggest a 2way lsd as they are so much better making rear movements more predicatble, along with removing and locking your hicas bar...just running stock skyline wheels on the back will be fine either 16's or 17's...most importantly go out and have a thrash and enjoy yourself without having to look over your shoulder for the po po!!

What's wrong with bodyroll for someone learning to drift? Unloading your inside rear tyre means you have less contact patch, so its easier to overwhelm what grip you have to get and keep the car sideways. While keeping your speeds down, so you can react to the vehicle's manner at 40km/hr instead of 60km/hr.

As long as the weight shifts in a progressive manner and it does return eventually, for someone trying to get the fundamentals down pat its not in itself a bad thing. You can use that greater weight shift to kick off various "dynamic drifting", once again at lower speeds.

Its obviously not something I'd recommend to a drift competitor, but like I said there's a world of difference between a good car to learn on and a good car to compete in.

I haven't been to a drift practice event in 2 years, and that was in Sydney. Do they run it on wet or dry surfaces? I'm assuming that the "practice" means no instructors? I would suggest doing an advanced skid training course, so a pro driver can tell you what you need to do and what you're getting wrong. They also tend to do it on wet skidpans, which once again lowers your speeds and so keeps it safe.

Of course if you already know how to drift and you're just wanting to get more practice in to improve what skills you have you can ignore the above.

I'd get a set of swaybars, and a proper 2 way LSD. I'd do a turbo-back exhaust to get more throttle response in the top end. Depending on your level I'd consider keeping the OEM intercooler to retain throttle response from the shorter pipes and hook up a water spray to reduce inlet charge temps instead (I'd chase bigger power once the skill levels are up and you can afford a slightly less responsive throttle). Get chassis bracing; front and rear strut braces.

Things i would recommend getting.

Hard suspension you already have this, i find having suspension that still allows body rolling throws the car off for me making it more unpredictable. but go out and experiment with the stiffness of teh suspension you like.

Clutch a good strong bitey clucth is extremely necessary.

Seat to hold you in and stop you from shifting around too much.

Diff doeesnt need to harcore 2way but always helps and makes sliding so much easier.

Not much power is needed.

i had 155rwkw in my last ceffy with all the above mods and found it easily to be the best amateur drift setup all round.

and i was using 16X8 rims from what i experienced the wider the rim the easier control i had while sliding.

good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
    • In the context of cam 'upgrader' I mean generally people who upgrade headers/cams - not my specific change. I mean it makes sense that if I had a bigger cam, I may get more false lean readings. So if I went smaller, I'd get less false lean readings. To a point where perhaps stock.. I'd have no false lean readings, according to the ECU. But I'm way richer than stock. My bigger than normal cam in the past also was giving false rich leanings. It's rather odd and doesn't add up or pass the pub test. Realistically what I want is the narrowbands to effectively work as closed loop fuel control and keep my AFR around 14.7 on light sections of the map. Which is of course the purpose of narrowband CL fuel control. So if I can change the switch points so the NB's target 14.7 (as read by my WB) then this should be fine. Haven't actually tested to see what the changed switchpoints actually result in - car needs to be in a position it can idle for awhile to do that. I suspect it will be a troublesome 15 min drive home with lots of stalling and way too rich/lean transient nightmare bucking away for that first drive at 2am or whevener it ends up being. Hopefully it's all tune-able. Realistically it should be. This is a very mild cam.
    • Messing with narrowband switchovers is a terrible bandaid. I don't want to think about it. You are a cam "upgrader" only in concept. As you said, your new cam is actually smaller, so it's technically a downgrade. OK, likely a very small downgrade, but nevertheless. But the big thing that will be the most likely suspect is the change of the advance angle. That change could be equivalent to a substantial decrease in cam lobe duration. I haven't gone to the effort of trying to think about what your change would actually cause. But until someone (you, me (unlikely), Matt, someone else) does so and comes to a conclusion about the effect, it remains a possibility that that is the change that is causing what you're seeing.
×
×
  • Create New...