Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

benm, you can get SPEED FLOW braided lines and fittings from STAR PERFORMANCE in Regatta Rd Five Dock. speed flow pricing is a lot less than EARLS, its as good or better than earls, and oz made. go mad with it, but make sure it cant rub on anything. it can be quite abrasive on softer items, like radiators.

dave

nice.. although i don't like the chances of it not scratching too easy - now you can't work on your engine... ever :D

wonder whether the hoses can do with just normal spray paints?? as you can get a wider range of funky colours rather than the high temp stuff. For rubber hoses and things I reckon it could be fine (where if they melt i'd be kinda concerned about the heat anywayz). One day i give i'll give it a try...then i start sanding and polishing some metal bits.

my interior is coming up nice with some touches of cherry red..then i gotta get to the brake calipers and spray them now they're visible.

um...http://www.ryco.com.au/ looks to have a massive selection. for those in melbourne its in footscray. I'd say they'd have everything and anything you'd want from looking at their catalogues. gotta pay them a visit one day too.

Originally posted by predator666

For rubber hoses and things I reckon it could be fine (where if they melt i'd be kinda concerned about the heat anywayz).

You're not talking about painting rubber hoses are you!? If you are it'll be a total waste of time. The rubber will tend to flex (not much but it won't take much!) & most paints don't handle being flexed. And you can forget about ever removing the painted rubber parts if you don't want the paint to crack straight off.

i did a test spray and it seemed to stick pretty well to the bit of hose i had sitting around ... but that wasn't in the car with the heats associated.. true, you don't want bits of paint flecking off - maybe i'm wrong. i'm gonna spray that sucker more then bend it to shittery and see what happens as a test.

Guess silicon hoses are the real solution.

I didn't use any primer or clear just about ~3 coats of gold and it seems to be sticking fairly well.

I mean once everything is back together its only subject to heat, nothing else.

But still i did a bodge job (first time playing with an engine and not exactly a painting expert) and i think my results (close up) reflect exactly that.

If i did it again i'd let everything dry 3x longer and use primer etc etc.

Geez youre engine bay looks sweet now Matt (whatsisname) I really think that is the best engine bay Ive ever seen!

I plan on doing the vaccuum hose, paint and a few other things on my GTR very soon. First im focusing on the metal parts (rocker covers, plenum etc) being polished to a mirror finish. Got half that done. Then will move on to the hoses etc...

I reckon matt, maybe you should have a go at getting the rocker covers and plenum polished up to a mirror finish. That would just top it off.

Do you reckon you could give some of us some tips on doing the engine bay up from scratch? Like where and what to buy, how much we are looking at?

thanks mate,

Andrew

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...