Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bit dissapointed.

32 GTR

1st up quick list of mods

rebuilt motor

JE pistons

standard crank and rods every thing else replaced.

To4z a/r 1 rear .70 front

50mm ebay wastegate with 12psi spring

hybrid boost controller electronic

PWR cooler

3.5inch exhaust

power FC

put it on the dyno today to raise the boost from 19 to 25psi

had 403kw.

my boost controller won't go higher than 22.5psi. its maxed out wont turn any more.

my question is should i spend the money on an e boost 2 like my tuner reccomends or will a stiffer wastegate spring do the job?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122507-my-gtr-maxed-out/
Share on other sites

Why are you using a cheap Hybrid boost controller on a car which this amount of work?

ditto on the ebay WG ..

if you want more boost

always try to get the WG's spring as close to the desired "low boost" setting you want, and that shouldn't be far from your MAX boost either ..

allows for the best form of boost control. get a better WG and spring and you wont need a boost controller.

yeah i know. i bought it for my old r31 with rb25det. but couldnt fit it.

then i bought the GTR and it had a greddy profec but it didnt work.

so i had this lying around and put it in.

i was going to have 19psi low boost for street and 25psi hi boost for dyno and drag days.

i thought you couldnt get springs rates this high??

where do i get them?

just bought a new tial external gate

has 1.2 Bar springs in it .

Expensive???

i just want the spring.

swap?

haha

just joshin

hoping that an eboost 2 will keep the gate shut .

had a couple of inconsistant ramp ups on the dyno, varied from 380kw to 420kw on 22.5psi. depending on when the gate would open

Expensive???

i just want the spring.

swap?

haha

just joshin

hoping that an eboost 2 will keep the gate shut .

had a couple of inconsistant ramp ups on the dyno, varied from 380kw to 420kw on 22.5psi. depending on when the gate would open

same thing my ebay one was/is doing, hence the upgrade to tial 38mm

i payed around $500 for brand new tial 38mm.. not sure if that would be big enough for you, think it would. that was with the the 1.2 bar sping .. so 18psi - actually runs 2 springs for that pressure

i posted a thread about sizing etc

here it is

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=43638&st=0

aaron @ sliding performance - slide on the forums is who i got it from, ask him if he can get the springs for you

Why are you using a cheap Hybrid boost controller on a car which this amount of work?

Hybrid is a cheap boost controller? HAH you’re joking right? Its one of the best I’ve seen. Had a comparison on a dyno with apexi, greaddy even that Greaddy one with the screen and remote ect... None of them held the boost as good as the hybrid EBC... Hybrid held it perfectly steady with NO spike or imperfection on the graph and came on boost very quick, others came on boost late and build boost gradually and had little boost spikes. I don't know where you’re getting your sources about a Hybrid EBC because I’ve seen proof on a dyno my self.

I would suggest a stronger actuator sprig like everyone else would say. Personally I wouldn’t go with e boost.

Just my 5c...

Cheers,

Alex.

Why are you using a cheap Hybrid boost controller on a car which this amount of work?

i'd say why an ebay wastegate :yes:

which is the lesser of two evils i dont know... they are both equally as sour as the other

just pull the spring out and stretch it!

You have got to be joking?

Anyway, if your running a 12psi spring, and trying to bleed off to more than 22psi.

Thats madness.

Buy a wastegate that works, boost control is one of the most important things and you go to ebay...

Once you get a proven performance application item, get the gate loading as close as you can to the target boost... ie, you wanna run 24psi.

So simply get springs to 21psi (one 14psi + one 7psi) and then bleed the 3psi off that.

Hybrid is a cheap boost controller? HAH you’re joking right? Its one of the best I’ve seen. Had a comparison on a dyno with apexi, greaddy even that Greaddy one with the screen and remote ect... None of them held the boost as good as the hybrid EBC... Hybrid held it perfectly steady with NO spike or imperfection on the graph and came on boost very quick, others came on boost late and build boost gradually and had little boost spikes. I don't know where you’re getting your sources about a Hybrid EBC because I’ve seen proof on a dyno my self.

Was it on a 400rwkw performance application?

Or a stock turbo'd skyline...

i reckon i know which is more likely

Was it on a 400rwkw performance application?

Or a stock turbo'd skyline...

i reckon i know which is more likely

Have you even seen a Hybrid EBC ??

Not quite 400 but over 300. Catharine Caliro (Drift Cat) has one. Seen it on the dyno my self. I was there while it was getting tuned...

A boost controller has nothing to do with the amount of power the car is making. It only controls the boost pressure its quite simple. It regulates the amount of air passing thru to the actuator / waste gate its nothing to technical. And 25psi is not a great deal of boost for any EBC. I don't think I need to explain my self anymore this is common sense guys.

I just don't like people falsely rating Hybrid EBS's...

Cheers,

Alex.

Edited by 217/r33

This is how one looks like...

Hybrid use's the same solenoid as Haltech boost controllers and I think e boost might use the same one.

The rest of it speaks for it self. Don't judge if you haven't tried :no:

Just my 5c...

Cheers,

Alex.

FULL LIST OF SPECS ARE BELOW....

* In cabin adjustment for high boost and low boost.

* Overboost Feature - Hook up an external switch for adding 10% more extra boost.

Ideal for take off in low boost to reduce wheel spin, switch to high boost after you get traction then turn on the over boost function before the finish line!

Easy to install instructions are included. Very compact in size, so you can install it virtually anywhere in the cabin.

This popular product is the result of constant refinement on the street and track.

Hybrid's full electronic boost controller not only spools up the turbo quicker but also regulates

the boost accurately.

You can purchase the Hybrid Boost Controller in two different configurations:

1. Hybrid Electronic Boost Controller Type 2 to suit MAF (Airflow Meter)

2. Hybrid Electronic Boost Controller Type 2 including a Hybrid MAP Sensor. The MAP sensor version can be fitted to any turbo vehicle and allows for closed loop boost control for even more accuracy.

Hybrid 3 Stage Electronic Boost Controller Type 2

Ask a question...

Best of all, the kit comes with all the parts you need for your install:

* Electronic Boost Control Module

* Electronic Wastegate Solenoid (9 bar / 130psi pressure equalised)

* Bracket for Solenoid

* MAP Sensor (Optional)

* Silicon Vacuum Hose

* Wiring Harness

* Fittings

* Cable Ties

* Pictured Instructions

Supports MAF (Airflow Meter) on the following cars:

* Mazda RX7 FC3S (Series 4, 5) - 13B Turbo

* Mazda RX7 FD3S (Series 6, 7, 8) - 13B-REW

* Toyota Aristo JZS147, JZS160, JZS161 - 2JZGTE

* Toyota Soarer GZ20, MZ20, JZZ30 - 1G-GTE, 7M-GTE, 1JZ-GTE

* Toyota Supra GA70, MA70, JZA70, JZA80 - 1G-GTE, 7M-GTE, 1JZ-GTE, 2JZ-GTE

* Toyota Chaser GX81, JZX81, JZX90, JZX100 - 1G-GTE, 1JZ-GTE

* Toyota MR2 SW20 3S-GTE

* Toyota Celica ST165, ST185, ST205 - 3S-GTE

* Toyota Caldina ST215W - 3S-GTE

* Toyota Starlet EP71, EP82, EP91 - 2E-TE, 4E-FTE

* Nissan Cima FPY31 FHY33 - VQ30DET

* Nissan 300ZX Fairlady Z32 - VG30DETT

* Nissan Leopard/Cedric/Gloria GF31, Y31, Y32, Y33 - VQ20DET, VQ30DET

* Nissan Cefiro A31 - RB20DET

* Nissan Laurel C35 - RB26DETT

* Nissan Skyline R31, R32, R33, R34 - RB20ET, RB20DET, RB25DET, RB26DETT

* Nissan Stagea W#C34 - RB25DET

* Nissan Stagea Autech WGNC34 - RB26DETT

* Nissan Bluebird U12, U13 - CA18DET, SR20DET

* Nissan Silvia S13, PS13, S14, S15 - CA18DET, SR20DET

* Nissan 180SX RS13, RPS13 - CA18DET, SR20DET

* Nissan Pulsar RNN14 - SR20DET

* Nissan Aveneir W10, W11 - SR20DET

* Subaru Legacy / Liberty BF5, BC5, BG9, BD9, BG5, BD5, BH5 - EJ20, EJ25

* Subaru Impreza / WRX / STi GF8, GC8 - EJ20

* Subaru Forester SF5 - EJ20

* Suzuki Cappuccino EA11R, EA21R - F6A, K6A

* Mitsubishi GTO Z16A - 6G72

* Mitsubishi Eclipse D27A, D32A - 4G63

* Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution I, II, III, IV, V, VI CD9A, CE9A, CN9A, CP9A - 4G63

* Mitsubishi Lancer CD5A, CM5A, CK4A - 4G63, 4G93, 4G92

hybrid_boost_controller.gif

Well I know my AVCR spikes like a bitch.... Especially in higher gears

As does the one in my friends car. This is after absolutely ages spent adjusting the duty cycle, response time on the solenoid per gear etc etc before anyone asks me if I tried changing the settings.

Its not the worst controler in the world but I definately would not buy another one. In fact if I could be stuffed hauling it out and selling it and installing a new one would not be in the car anymore!

DK

50mm ebay wastegate with 12psi spring

my boost controller won't go higher than 22.5psi. its maxed out wont turn any more.

Regardless of what EBC you are using, you are bleeding off 10 psi which is simply too much.

Get a wastegate spring for the minimum boost you are likely to run.

My rule of thumb is never to bleed off more than 25%

For example if you have a 20 psi then + 25% = 25 psi

:( cheers :P

PS; I don't believe in high/low boost settings, if I want a lower power ouput I don't push the pedal down as far.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
    • So my car is finally back from paint! This took an absolutely insane amount of work and should get it's own build thread - but I didn't build it. It was completed by Troy @ https://scalekustoms.com.au/ I originally bought the AOSHIMA URAS Type R kit while I was in Japan, it's supposed to look like this when assembled: Now, I thought that was cool enough until I opened the box with Dismay, as there's no way I could possibly have completed it. The thing is 1/24 and has details down to the steering wheel horn button, which is a 2mm diameter sticker. I originally wondered if someone could make it at all, as is - But then things got a little carried away. It's worth noting that the model does not have an openable bonne, let alone engine bay, OR an openable boot. - Troy has worked wonders with 3D printer and presumably better eyes than I will ever have. My photos suck, so I will post up some of his in-progress ones he sent to me during the way. Unsuprisingly, he is very detailed. A lot of these are out of order. But he: 1) Made a LS engine and an engine bay appear out of thin air 2) Made the bonnet removable 3) Printed the rims I will buy in the future (or any rim you want) 4) Printed and added the wing that is going on 5) Tinted my back windows as this is what my car has IRL (privacy glass) 6) Added a licence plate. 7) Somehow did the interior 8) 3D Printed my actual seats 9) Made the exhaust under the car connect even though this is likely invisible. 10) Created a boot with my fking battery box, power steering reservoir, subwoofer and toolboxes back there. To say it's insane is an understatement. And I f**ked it all up because when I was re-mounting the wing (it broke in transit) I spilled glue everywhere and ripped paint up and Gregged the rear half of the car. Which about makes sense. Also, this arrived on the same day. Quite the change from: I spent 16 hours per day over the next 3 days pre-christmas putting the interior back together, mounting lip, fixing various bodykit problems with window mouldings, etc. and servicing, rebuilding my 370z brakes to go on the car 'soon', messing with heights to check clearances for new wheels, etc. I also had a foray into mounting wiper-mounted washer jets which was an absolute disaster. The bodyshop has welded (and painted) over the stock jet locations for reasons unknown to everybody (i.e they forgot) I also wanted to wire in the oil pressure sensor on Christmas Eve which was a BAD IDEA. You do not know terror like pulling your ECU apart, pinning in half-fitting pins that aren't the right ones, but trying anyway because it's Christmas eve, putting your ECU back together and having a no-start condition with a fuel pump not priming. Then you undo all your work and the fuel pump still doesn't prime. So after all that terror and horror and pain and tedious disassembly, the issue was the relay in the boot which seems to have died/stuck when I was turning the car off and on about 700 times testing shitty washer jets. I also re-wired the fuel pump power plug which fell apart in my hands. I am very happy I had 3 extra pre-made ones from a few posts/last Christmas's breakdown. https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/10-x-pcm-ecm-ecu-terminals I have put an order for these in, so I can actually add the pins to the ECU properly. The commodore ECU does not have the pins for Oil Pressure via ODB2. However the ECU can support it if you create the pins and wire them in. So for round two, and somehow attempting to route that into the engine bay through my impossible engine bay grommet is a fight for another day. It's 40C in Melbourne tomorrow, I am half tempted to drive the car with the aircon on to deliver presents to my partner's family and see if it helps with the overheating-on-40C-days-in-traffic-with-aircon-on-only issue that the vents were intended to solve. Do I feel lucky?
    • Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.
    • The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
    • You 100% could do that, would save money on a gym membership lol. But yeah, getting a cordless orbital sander will feel priceless coming from doing it manually.  Good luck with it mate
×
×
  • Create New...