R32 Boost Gauge Install

[wilch]

Here's a little write up on how to install a boost gauge into the drivers side vent of an R32.

*disclaimer: If anything goes wrong or you break anything while following this post it's not my fault.

Items needed:

Phillips head screw driver

Socket Set

Spare vacuum line (the thin stuff that just fits the clear autometer tube inside it)

plastic T piece that fits the above vacuum line

Masking tape

Step 1

IMPORTANT Open the bonnet. It's easier to now than it is later

Remove the dash piece that's above the pedals and below the steering wheel.

- there are 4 screws along the top side

- 2 screws along the bottom side (32 gtst)

- 1 screw at the side (covered by the door when it's closed)

- 2 bolts that also hold in the bonnet release

n.b. Unplug the beeper after you've unscrewed everything (you'll see it when you do it)

Step 2

Once you've removed this piece you'll notice that the vent is attached. Unscrew the two screws holding it in and remove.

Step 3

Now what you'll notice is that you've got a nice little hole where you should be able to fit your gauge. Some fit, but with the autometer boost gauge that we had there was no chance of getting it in.

If this happens you need a Dremel. If you don't know what a Dremel is, maybe you should get someone that does and have them finish the install

Ok, now if you check the packaging that came with your autometer gauge you should notice that it came with a circular tube of hard cardboard in which it was placed. Get this tube and use it to see how much of the hole you need to widen.

Now with the autometer gauge I was lucky cause I basically just needed to shave off the clean rounded edge around the hole.

There was a lot to take off regardless. It's just this edge gave me something to work towards so that I kept the hole round, and didn't go too far.

Step 4

Dremel time.

I used this attachment.

Now here's where I wish I had taken more photos.

I didn't use this attachment to cut into the hole, I used it kinda like you would sand paper. Shaving away this inside of the hole slowly. TAKE YOUR TIME. Do NOT hack away at the hole, just shave the edges down slowly, moving around the hole till it's bigger.

Eventually it'll be big enough. Keep checking.

Step 5

Insert the gauge.

Here you can see the snug fit. It was actually so snug I couldn't get it back out again. So make sure you've lined it up properly before you push it all the way in.

Step 6

How the hell do you get the vacuum feed from the engine to the gauge??

Have a look in the engine bay.

The vacuum line highlighted by the red arrow is what we need to cut.

It currently feeds the stock boost gauge controller (the little box on the left).

Now look to the left a bit more and you'll see a hole.

This is your entrance into the cars cabin.

Here's the other side of that hole.

...and a bit closer. (Note I've already pushed the clear autometer tubing through the hole)

Step 7

Feeding the line.

- Grab an old coat hanger.

- Unwind it.

- Grab the clear autometer tubing.

- Line up the end of the tubing with one of the ends of the coat hanger wire.

- Tape around the end of the tubing and the wire tightly... make the end smooth and one piece basically.

- Get in the car.

- You see this rubber stuff?

- Poke a hole through it, then shove the coat hanger plus tube (taped end first) in through here.

- Now go and have a look in the engine bay.

- You should see the coat hanger and the tube in here.

- Grab it and pull it through.

Now that wasn't hard was it? Few mins and your done. So many people told me this step would take forever and was a bitch... sif.

Step 8

Attaching the Tpiece.

Cut the vacuum line pictured.

And attach the Tpiece.

Then cut the clear tube to size....

All done for the engine bay.

Step 9

Connecting the vacuum line to the gauge.

N.b. Ensure you leave enough slack in the vacuum line to get the gauge plus dash piece out again once installed.

Basically follow the instructions for you gauge at this point.

With autometer gauges, be careful not to twist or bend the clear tubing when screwing the attachment onto the gauge.

Step 10

Making it light up.

Grab the 12v feed from your cigarette lighter. It's the easiest 12v wire that goes "hot" when the headlights are turned on to find.

Wire this up as you would anything else. If you don't know how to do this, you shouldn't be installing the gauge.

Step 11

Admire your work.

[GTAAAH]

very nice man, a great write up, sucks u didnt do it 2 weeks ago woulda saved me some time. But what did u do to stop the hot air blowing into the back of your gauge?

[SuAvE-1]

nice 1 man, very creative. I did a similar thing. Helps if your vents are cracked.

[wilch]

very nice man, a great write up, sucks u didnt do it 2 weeks ago woulda saved me some time. But what did u do to stop the hot air blowing into the back of your gauge?

Gaffa tape

Hey it works, and you can't see it

But shhh. It's my g/f's car and she doesn't know I did the dodgey and used gaffa to seal up the vent. lol

[scottyRB]

was a huge help thanks man

[[mez]]

Even better if you have an APEX'i EL series gauge (60mm) as they fit in perfectly - no cutting/boring!

Just need to secure it from the back (ziptie etc) and its apples!

CLICK ME

Edited May 20, 2007 by [mez]

[bLaQ.bOi]

wat the hell, how the fek do you guys even see the boost gauge from seated position?

anyways nice write up.. thanx... definatly needed this one

[kelumzi]

PROBLEM

For some reason on the aftermarket gauge, it's says im pushing 11 psi ... Why?

The car is not boosted, according to the stock guage it's reading 5-6 psi

Is the aftermarket gauge reading doubling?

[Rekin]

PROBLEM

For some reason on the aftermarket gauge, it's says im pushing 11 psi ... Why?

The car is not boosted, according to the stock guage it's reading 5-6 psi

Is the aftermarket gauge reading doubling?

stock gauge does not read PSI. It reads a different unit hence why its maximum is 7.

Stock r32 does 10psi standard. A larger exhaust/intercooler will cause boost leak and hence the 11psi read.

Please save questions like these outside the tutorial section

[rice_me_up]

great write up. thanks heaps. i really needed to know where the cabin/ engine bay cavity was for the greddy boost controller.

cheers. james.

[diabloisian]

Awsome right up! This has helped tons of people since you wrote it! You get a dancing banana for that!

[R32_GODZILLA]

Yeah definately helped me out big time when installing my boost guage - Much appreciated!

[ceffy_89]

ive got a a31 with a rb20det swap. where do i connect the boost gauge up to because i dont have the factory boost gauge line. i know its somewhere in the intake manifold but where??

[abu]

You can use the port off the manifold that connects to the fuel reg

T piece that line and run it from there

[cosmokram3r]

Even better if you have an APEX'i EL series gauge (60mm) as they fit in perfectly - no cutting/boring!

Just need to secure it from the back (ziptie etc) and its apples!

CLICK ME

I bought one of those EL2 gauge's after reading this and it fits in perfect! Just needed a bit of tape around it and it fits/looks awesome =] Old one i had in there had like layers and layers of duct tape looked horrible..

[JimmyRickard]

Anyone tried to put in a 5/8 Oil pressure gauge in? Would it require dremelling?

[GODZILLA-GTR]

excellent! will be using this

[Aaron BNR32 GTS-T]

nice write up it helped me install mine but above the air con contol and radio is

[Guest]

great write up! took me all of 15 mins and 60mm gauge fitted perfectly

[Richard Clark]

Great !