Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you can thread the wires up the pillar pretty easily. just remove the kickplate and the cover on the side of the foot well, then remove the rubber from the door frame. you can slide the wires up the side of the A-pillar cover and out the hole from the tweeter cover.

stock split wires come together deep in the dash. Dont bother to use them mate, they are pissy wire anyway.

As terminal said, I ran my tweeter wires up behind the kickplates, then between the dash and the body and up into the A-pillar.

woofer(meaning, for splits) wires I just used the stock wires...i know, but i cbf'ed to replace em.

My amp is also under my passenger seat. Just remove the stock airvent under there and run the wires through there. I put some MDF below the carpet and drilled/screwed the amp onto that.

  • 1 year later...

all i did was flick out the cover with a screw driver. unscrew the stock tweeter.. throw that sumwhere ull never find it. run your new wire down tha a piller. n poke it out on the door side.. poke it behind the dash with a screw driver, mount your cross over under the kick panel on the drivers side and ecu cover on passenger side. stockwires for woofer.. jsut take out the door trim (yes there is a screw in the bit that you pull on to close! (tooke me a while :banana:) then i just pulled out the head unit worked out what was the front speaker wire head unit to amp imput on x over. and what that was connected to goes to your woofer out put on the x over. took me like hr n half 2 hrs to do a semi ligit job... also i did mine in pares like both the tweeters mounted, both the woofers mounted, etc etc gd luck

that looks SICK! well done ! and woulda saved a HEAP of time

I am going thru the epic stereo install from hell at the moment haha.. I am just worried I didnt give em enough wattage- 50w RMS all round - I have the Hertz 165's too - so hopefully that gives them enough power

what i did with mine....
  • 10 months later...
I put mine where the stock ones came. I did not have stock ones come with the car, so i drilled holes and put there in there.

To remove that A pillar part, you need to do the following (easiest this way)

- Remove front seats

- Remove door sills/kick panels

- Remove the covers for the seatbelt things

- Remove A pillar thing

Trust me when I say, this is NOTHING compared to removing the rear bar! Just a quick run down of the rear bar

- Remove boot carpet

- Remove holders/plastic caps etc

- Remove plastic from sides

- Remove wall carpet

- Remove rear bar

That takes about 2h, compared to the A pillar ~30 minutes.

In my system, I LOVE the tweeters placed where they are. My Hertz HSK165's are splits, with woofers in the doors and tweeters on the A Pilar. As there is no midrange speaker, the balance is made via tuning the EQ.

Hertz does actually stock midrange speakers, but not on the RS4.

If you want a comment on my sound systems pumpage, I honestly dont think it could sound any better than the way it is, ask Ian, aka humble.

i was skimming over this to see how to get the a pillar plastic off and just had a question. why does the seat need to come out??

that looks SICK! well done ! and woulda saved a HEAP of time

I am going thru the epic stereo install from hell at the moment haha.. I am just worried I didnt give em enough wattage- 50w RMS all round - I have the Hertz 165's too - so hopefully that gives them enough power

thats what mine have, needs more :laugh:

i was skimming over this to see how to get the a pillar plastic off and just had a question. why does the seat need to come out??

Both AlexCim and myself mounted amps under our seats :D

my stock system still running the stock amp but aftermarket head unit, no need to upgrade my system.

unless it was done in japan ? cause it pumps pretty damn good ;):banana:

and no room underseats for amps, got electric heated seats.

so i saved myself about 800bucks in speakers :D HIGH FIVE!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...