Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The long one is a castor rod. Japanese call them tension rods. Essentially they are adjustable and change the castor of the front suspension. Basically castor changes the axis that the wheel pivots on...so when you turn the wheel the actual contact patch of the tyre changes.

Ppl typically tweek castor so that it gives them some camber(dynamic) whislt turning the wheel. When they straighten the wheel it goes back to normal so you are not havign to run excess static camber for corner grip, as thats the sort of camber you normally hear ppl complaining about giving them poor tyre wear.

The second shorter ones are tie rod ends. Basically they screw on the end of the steering tie rod that comes out of the steering rack and is fastened to the hub.

Both pics use ball joints which are pretty racey...some ppl like the directness and feel they give you, others complain about the noise and wear.

yes. The r32/silvia castor rods are the same no matter the brand.

But not all castor rods are created equal :unsure: As geoff said, neither of the pictured items look to be of particularly good quality.

i find the cheaper / generic castor rods to be better, because usually the rose joints are standard sizes and you can get much better quality bearings for them, ie teflon bearings. (i.e. hit up http://www.linearbearings.com.au/ to find info on better quality rod ends for automotive use)

I don't think Tien/cusco have standard sizes, which is why i've avoided them. Bearings are a wear and tear component and should be checked regularly.

(the rod ends www.garage-13.com sell as "dmax castor rods" are the ones i'm talking about they use standard 16L metric rod ends 16mm left hand thread)

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig

quality of rose joint.. I'm no expert, but there are several factors, basically the material and casting quality of the ball and housing, some have a race, some are raceless Some wear faster than others, are poorly lubricated and i've seen housings break. Buy ones which are specified for motorsport use and you'll be fine. The cheapo justjap/no name brands are usually fairly crappy, but you get what you pay for. "brand name" jap brands are probably better but who knows! the ones i'm using have a nice solid body construction, if you put a good bearing in them they are great. (even the cheapest replacement rod end you can buy ~$15-20 looks better than some of the jap brands)

Infact i broke one myself during a fairly nasty accident which involved hitting a ripplestrip front-on (this is what drove me to replace the bearings with something decent... though probably any rod end would do this after being hit hard enough)

In general, the more you pay the better! you can pay over $100 for a rod end.

castor.jpg

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig

i can't download that pic for some reason,

longer castor rod = less castor, which is probably not what you want

Most brands will allow for roughly the same level of adjustment, maybe it just looks longer in the different pics

keep in mind also. S13/r32/z32 are all the same, but awd r32's have different rods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...