Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

i am planning on buying an rb25det gearbox this week.

if there is anyone else in melb who wants one too.

then we can buy 2 at the same time, and its sure to lower the price of one. (as they are pretty dear to start with)

they want around 1100 for a box, so we could get it for under a grand if we went together.

let me know, as this week is when i am buying one.

cheers

for an r33 i reckon it could be done for around $1500 if ya did the labour yourself. but it would depend how much you picked up some other the stuff.

e.g

box $1000 (with clutch flywheel, gearstick, crossmember)

tailshaft $250

pedals $150

clutch master, lines, slave, knob. $100

anyways i need an r33 box, and i been to a couple of places so far. they showed no room for negotiation so they dont get my money, which i was willing to hand over right there and then.

BUt i need a box, so come on. someone must have one.

and who actually wants to sell it, for reasonable price.

im in negotiation rite now tho

the guy wants 3500 to 4000 bux to do the converting

thats labor and all

im trying to pull down the price tho. like give him my gear box and stuff.and might do the labor myself.

but he will be importing half a car to do the job.

damn but i was planning to get the job done in about 6 weeks

converting what?

manual to auto. or what a whole engine and gearbox?

do the work yourself will be cheaper.

on another note.

does anyone know if a auto starter motor can be used with the manual gearbox. i have seen nothing on the conversions things to do list.

but... just wanna know

guy in sydney got his done for $2000 all up inc labour box and new clutch which is a bargain. 3500 - 4000 is a rip was that ice??

try new fujima for gearbox got one from them at it was awesome I'd rather pay $1200 for a good one than $900 for a shit one.

I did mine for $2600. I supp ICE my car with no motor and box, they did the pedal box and master cylinder and supp the box with brand new heavy duty exedy clutch and other bits and I put it all in with my bro in law on the ground was fun(not) but worth it, after that I got it towed to the auto elec ICE recommended and that cost all up 80 bucks took him about a day. It would've cost me an easy $3500 if I didn't do it...bonus other than saving quite a bit of money was the knowledge I gained from this conversion as I am no mechanic. ;)

a few things.

1) reverse lights

2) speedo drive is diff from auto to manwell.,

3) remove inhibitor swtich on auto otherwise no starto!!!

not sure about tacho... auto computer runs the manual fine ..

if you wanna do it yourself good luck but for the money I paid the auto elec I think it was cheap....

other handy hints on r33 its much easier if engine is out.. pressing is there for slave clylinder but will need to drill holes, fitting the pedal box is a bitch holes are all there though you need to drop the steering col hope u like being upside down for a while hehhehe. also will need to drill the spigot bush thingo out of the auto trans which is a bitch of a job also you will need a decent drill and drill bit. thinks thats it oh and also the clutch cable from the slave cylinder as well..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the explanation, I'll sleep a little smarter tonight! Cheers. 
    • Being this happened about 4 years ago, i honestly forget exactly what is was, but I wound bringing to Simon at SR Werks when he was here in NY. He was able to properly diagnose and repair. I believe it had to do with the harness behind my dash. 
    • It's because the air comes in over #3 & #4. The two "dead" ends of the plenum are at #6 & #1, with #6 being a little more "compromised" (Sorry about all the quote marks) than #1, due to the shape. So you get the dead end effect at #6 & #1 where dynamic pressure converts to static pressure, likely causing the air flow to be highest for these. The others are then just working in from the ends to the centre. 6 -> 1 is only valid for FFPs.
    • Cut back on the attitude champ, no one is obligated to help you. The chances of Forester owners on here are quite low, considering this forum is called Skylines Australia. https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts/subaru-under-cover-front~56410sa000.html ^ that picture looks wrong, because if you see the diagram, 56410SA070 looks correct. You can always check where the mounting holes are on your car, and compare them to the pictures.
    • Hey Duncan, I've always set them up from 6 -> 1. Due to slightly higher EGT's, I also add a small amount of fuel to cylinder 6 & 5. I understand why you start at 6 but curious as to why you then continue somewhat based on firing order? Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...