What Rods To Buy Rb30det

[Deceeve]

25/30, powerfc pro, gt35/40 .83ar rear, 850cc sards, vct, ati damper. The response is extremely good, full boost atm is only 18psi, get that by a shade under 3500rpm, redline atm is 7k will be 8.5k after next tune.

Can you actually tell me what you have done to the bottom end? and how much it costed you? Because i'm trying to source out places that does the strengthening of the RB30 NA crank. They do like Shot peened, polished the crank, work on block and that around $4000..Wondering if it's possible for me to get it cheaper.

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

YOu cannot compare the microtech to the Motec even for a second and you are kidding yourself if you think they are similar.... A microtech will do a shit job of controling your 1200cc+ injectors you will need for that engine to make that power, its input points will make it very hard to control timing and injectors at 6k when you turbo starts spooling cause thats the size of turbos you will need to make that power, so in a very short amount of time you will have a smouldering mess of your hands. You will also need to grout fill the block, to stop it splitting which means NO street time for you...you will need to make a mains cap brace and definately get a forged crank made, and some serious rods if you intend on spinning any rb30 past 8.5k. Your head work alone with all the correct gear that will allow the engine to go to 10k RPM should owe you around 6-8g that leaves you 7 left for the bottom end that will be eaten up by the 6K+ custom forged crank, suddenly 15k is 1k and you havent got rods, pistons, machining, balancer, oil pump, head gasket, water pump, aluminium pulleys, no fuel system, no clutch or gearbox up to the task, or an engine management system....

Budget at least 30k and you might be close may need even more, otherwise you are dreaming you will make 550rwkw, rev to 10k and have an engine that doesnt grenade itself in the first 1000kms.

Cheers,

Edited August 18, 2006 by Fitzpatrick Speed Works

[Deceeve]

YOu cannot compare the microtech to the Motec even for a second and you are kidding yourself if you think they are similar.... A microtech will do a shit job of controling your 1200cc+ injectors you will need for that engine to make that power, its input points will make it very hard to control timing and injectors at 6k when you turbo starts spooling cause thats the size of turbos you will need to make that power, so in a very short amount of time you will have a smouldering mess of your hands. You will also need to grout fill the block, to stop it splitting which means NO street time for you...you will need to make a mains cap brace and definately get a forged crank made, and some serious rods if you intend on spinning any rb30 past 8.5k. Your head work alone with all the correct gear that will allow the engine to go to 10k RPM should owe you around 6-8g that leaves you 7 left for the bottom end that will be eaten up by the 6K+ custom forged crank, suddenly 15k is 1k and you havent got rods, pistons, machining, balancer, oil pump, head gasket, water pump, aluminium pulleys, no fuel system, no clutch or gearbox up to the task, or an engine management system....

Budget at least 30k and you might be close may need even more, otherwise you are dreaming you will make 550rwkw, rev to 10k and have an engine that doesnt grenade itself in the first 1000kms.

Cheers,

Thanks alot for that!!

- What if i want the engine to just do a flat 10 second or high 9s reliably and keeping Revs low? What power should i aiming for making at the wheels?

- What's the best way to go with the block and crank of the NA RB30?

- The same goes with the RB26 head?

Thanks heaps!

[r33_racer]

Lovely... I think alot of people were thinking that but no one wanted to say anything lol

Our bottom end, well everything was balanced and de dagged or sanded up casting dags, crank was fine, just machined for the collar, girdle was untouched...that was it to the bottom end oh and it was faced. nothing special done to the rods or pistons or clutch or harmonic damper, just all balanced.

But our engine is in a circuit car mate, not a drag car.

[Deceeve]

Lovely... I think alot of people were thinking that but no one wanted to say anything lol

Our bottom end, well everything was balanced and de dagged or sanded up casting dags, crank was fine, just machined for the collar, girdle was untouched...that was it to the bottom end oh and it was faced. nothing special done to the rods or pistons or clutch or harmonic damper, just all balanced.

But our engine is in a circuit car mate, not a drag car.

Ah damn all this time i thought you were into Drag lol!

What kw at the wheels are you making at the moment using the RB30 NA crank?

Hm i think for ECU i guess i have no choice but to go for the Motech M800.

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

You do have a choice if you are only looking for a low 10 or 9.

Autronic is a great ECU but will require wiring in buy a clue auto elec to make the system work properly as it should, that with CDI will be 10 times better than a microtech. Not baggin microtech they have there place have used them heaps over the last 10 years but it wont perfrom as you want.

Now for your build.... lets say rev limit 8k, power at 430-450rwkw...is this GTR or RWD?

Prep the block as per a high hp rebuild, grout fill half way if this car will see not alot of street driving, ie only a quick thurs night cruise and some runs close to home... grout fill the high pressure feed for the turbo. Also stud the main girdle and also the head run studs.

Put the collar on the crank, and prep crank as per usuall get it crack tested, dont cross drill it or anything special re do all bearing surfaces.

Rods, Argo, Pauter or Crower will perform the best and are pretty good in price, as for pistons get CP's or Arias and get them ceramic coated.

Oil pump run a JUN one at a miniumum, you will need to tee into the high pressure out and this is where your new turbo feed comes from, also make sure you run Tomie oil restrictors in the block. Standard rb26 water pump will be fine. Dont run anymore than 20thou over on bores. and run around 9.0 or 8.5:1 comp no less. you will also need a ATI balancer.

As for the head now you arent reving it crazy just get some spec 2 cams ie 272, 10.5mm lift and the springs to suit and get the valve guides re-done as these are always flogged out, cam gears and that will be about all you need. If you want you spend the extra and get oversized valves and a port job but its not essential.

Now are you running standard plenum etc???

What gearbox?

What suspension?

What diff(s).

Tyre/wheels combo??

Anyway that build will cost you around 15k and will net you a low 10 and a 9 if the rest of the car is set up to match.

Hope this helps.

Daniel

Edited August 18, 2006 by Fitzpatrick Speed Works

[Sydneykid]

Daniel you have a PM (or two)

cheers

[Deceeve]

You do have a choice if you are only looking for a low 10 or 9.

Autronic is a great ECU but will require wiring in buy a clue auto elec to make the system work properly as it should, that with CDI will be 10 times better than a microtech. Not baggin microtech they have there place have used them heaps over the last 10 years but it wont perfrom as you want.

Now for your build.... lets say rev limit 8k, power at 430-450rwkw...is this GTR or RWD?

Prep the block as per a high hp rebuild, grout fill half way if this car will see not alot of street driving, ie only a quick thurs night cruise and some runs close to home... grout fill the high pressure feed for the turbo. Also stud the main girdle and also the head run studs.

Put the collar on the crank, and prep crank as per usuall get it crack tested, dont cross drill it or anything special re do all bearing surfaces.

Rods, Argo, Pauter or Crower will perform the best and are pretty good in price, as for pistons get CP's or Arias and get them ceramic coated.

Oil pump run a JUN one at a miniumum, you will need to tee into the high pressure out and this is where your new turbo feed comes from, also make sure you run Tomie oil restrictors in the block. Standard rb26 water pump will be fine. Dont run anymore than 20thou over on bores. and run around 9.0 or 8.5:1 comp no less. you will also need a ATI balancer.

As for the head now you arent reving it crazy just get some spec 2 cams ie 272, 10.5mm lift and the springs to suit and get the valve guides re-done as these are always flogged out, cam gears and that will be about all you need. If you want you spend the extra and get oversized valves and a port job but its not essential.

Now are you running standard plenum etc???

What gearbox?

What suspension?

What diff(s).

Tyre/wheels combo??

Anyway that build will cost you around 15k and will net you a low 10 and a 9 if the rest of the car is set up to match.

Hope this helps.

Daniel

I'm gonna be running a custom made 5.7 Ltr Plenum

As for the Gearbox it's gonna be running on OS Giken Cross mission gears and all rebuild with all new nissan parts.

Suspension is stabilize by aftermarket castor rods, tie rods, Tomei Traxx LSD, Tein Coilovers, Whiteline front and rear swaybars.

Tyres are Azenis 215/45/17

Brembo F50 Calipers

By the way It will be RWD.

Anything else i might need?

Thank you guys so much for your time!