Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just trying to do a few things with my car which requires disconnecting the batter leads to the car battery.

The unit has a digital back up battery which of course sets of the siren as soon as i disconnect the battery leads.

This nearly made me go deaf when i first disconnect the leads! :P

My question is, how can i disconnect the leads without the bloody siren going off? Is it as simple as disarming the alarm and then do the work? I'm pretty sure the car was disarmed when i disconnected the leads yet the sirens till went off.

Thanks.

Slats

Someone answered this for me a while ago. It's obvious to me now, but I didn't think of it at the time.

You should have a key for the siren, usually mounted in the enginebay. The key turns the siren off so you can disconnect the battery. It's a tamper-proof feature of the alarm. =-]

Hey all,

Just trying to do a few things with my car which requires disconnecting the batter leads to the car battery.

The unit has a digital back up battery which of course sets of the siren as soon as i disconnect the battery leads.

This nearly made me go deaf when i first disconnect the leads! :D

My question is, how can i disconnect the leads without the bloody siren going off? Is it as simple as disarming the alarm and then do the work? I'm pretty sure the car was disarmed when i disconnected the leads yet the sirens till went off.

Thanks.

Slats

After disarming the alarm the siren should not sound when the battery is disconnected if it is digital, if it does then contact the manufacterer.

After disarming the alarm the siren should not sound when the battery is disconnected if it is digital, if it does then contact the manufacterer.

should be the one we think one we think it is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've uploaded logs / the current map to Gdrive if anyone has any ideas. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FPnr22Z-EilG7tYdHSi0Qb07P2jfFLKV?usp=sharing
    • I'm running a Haltech Platinum Pro with the stock map for the RB20DET + tweaks for my build. When I started it this morning, the IAT was at 32F/0C (Outside temp was ~42F) and the AFRs went off the scale for my AEM gauge. I let it run for ~30 seconds then turned it off. I then did a smoke test, by hooking into a vacuum line directly behind the throttle body, and confirmed there was no leaks ( i let the smoke tester run for ~5 minutes / confirmed it was generating smoke before hand ). I then started the car again, after fixing a power steering leak.... and it seemed to be happy for ~30 seconds (was at ~11/12), but then seemingly shot back up to ~18 again. I then let the car run for a few minutes, thinking this was just cold start related, but the AFRs never came back down. I didn't let the car fully warm up, so maybe this makes sense, but I'm not sure what to do? The AFRs, when I last ran it, were normal, but because of personal reasons I haven't been able to break in the car. It was rebuilt last year. Engine / Mod list: Supertec pistons Spool rods Kelford 270 cams and Springs Stock crank Deatschwerks 900cc injectors Walbro 255 (Wired directly to the battery relocated in the trunk) NKG Audi R8 Coil packs + Conversion Harnesses from Wiring Specialties Holset HY35 turbo Haltech Platinum Pro ECU Haltech boost controller (wired in for high boost RB25 Neo transmission + needed bits for the speedo to work  
    • Not great at getting the camera out fast enough for cars driving. Even in traffic. S15 is in front of the kei truck.
×
×
  • Create New...