Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Either change tyre diameter or take the speedo out and change the calibration resistor in the back of the speedo.

HPI magazine had an article on it a couple of issues ago on their R33 GTS 4 door with RB26DETT project.

haha umine is the same deal as you but everytime i hit boost the 'hundred thousand' number move... hahah so basically i go thru about 200,000kms a week :)

really do need to get that replaced lol..

its good in a way having it 10km/h up from wat it really is.. cause i find myself not speednig at all cause it already loooks like i am haha

not true having a uncalibrated spedo is a fine aswell!

dont kno if u loose demrit ppoints tho.. doubt it

Yes but if you are 10kmh under the speedlimit. Good luck getting pulled over!

haha umine is the same deal as you but everytime i hit boost the 'hundred thousand' number move... hahah so basically i go thru about 200,000kms a week :D

really do need to get that replaced lol..

its good in a way having it 10km/h up from wat it really is.. cause i find myself not speednig at all cause it already loooks like i am haha

hahaha

i am pretty sure that jaycar makes an inline circuit kit to recalibrate your speedo. that's all the details i have though.

Yeah, they do - catch is you've gotta be handy with a soldering iron, it's a DIY thing.

  • 2 months later...

old thread, i know, but rather than risk a "use the search button" warning, i'll just add on here.

I had a GPS and a friend in my car (borrowed both, i have no friends).

He was watching the GPS screen for speed readout. Apparently, this unit updates 5 times per second, so i assume it's accurate.

At 60kph on speedo, the GPS stated 65kph.

At 110kph on speedo, the GPS stated 112kph.

This sounds backwards, does it not?

I have 18's on my car. And i assumed my speedo would be out a little.

But it looks to me as if the speedo/needle isnt really accurate, or the error/difference would have increased at higher speeds.

How have you guys found your R33 speedos to be?

I have 3 spedos in my car - stock gtr cluster (in a s1 gts), blitz r-vit (consult connector style display unit) and gps. They all fluctuate... i assume the consult readout is the most accurate but the gps in particular can read anywhere from 90 - 110kph when the cluster reads 97 and the consult readout is 100kph..

i think it depends on how good the signal is at the time... if i'm crusing at a constant speed (well constant according to my other 2 spedos lol) it still fluctuates maybe 5kph?? I have a navman icn-320 if that helps (basic model one)

hmmmm, so it may be the GPS that is out?

I thought those things were very accurate.

the most accurate way to measure your speedo differential is to actually do the math.

RPM through gears into the diff with the Tyre/Wheel radius.

the ADR's allow for a 10% error in the Speedometer accuracy - ADR18

although the police do not seem to recognise this - specifically in victoria (3km/h over can and will get you a ticket..)

I have a "Road Angle" which is a form of GPS unit that stores the location of all fixed speed cameras, red light cameras etc etc and it also provides accurate speed readouts.

I would suggest that the accuracy of your speedo all comes down to your tyre size. I run a R33 GTR V-Spec and a R33 GTS-T Series II and the speedo readings are the same in each car for the same tyre size.

Exact Speedo reading = overall diameter of 651 mm

Typical Sizes :

275/30ZR19

275/35ZR18

245/40ZR18

245/45ZR17

5% over registration = speedo 105 and actual 100 = overall diameter 643

Typical Sizes :

265/30ZR19

265/35ZR18

235/40ZR18

235/45ZR17

11% over registration = speedo 111 and actual 100 = overall diameter 633

Typical Sizes :

225/50ZR16

well this is mine

5% over registration = speedo 105 and actual 100 = overall diameter 643

Typical Sizes :

265/30ZR19

265/35ZR18

235/40ZR18

235/45ZR17

but the gps was stating 112 at speedo-110, 65 at speedo-60.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...